eanhl2004

My brakes have gone 'spongy' I had a hard brake incident about 2 years ago and killed my brakes, they went spongy and basically 'out' had new brake pads, rotors resurfaced, master cylinder replaced. brakes were good for awhile... I only drive around 3-4,000 miles a year in this car. They went soft at work last friday. I checked the Fluid Level and it was bone dry. I added some fluid just so it would have some, the fluid mixed in and is all dirty.. brakes still soft. Cleaned the area around the master cylinder and brake booster as it appears some fluid may have been leaking around it.

I am not sure how to check the fluid level on the master cylinder, there is no line as best I can tell the only 'line' would be the seam where the top and bottom meet? this is not 'stock' it was replaced with some parts store parts. Now I am pretty sure I over-filled it and it is leaking around the cap.

I plan to take it in to a brake shop and have the system Flushed and Bled and refilled, is this likely to resolve the problem. I think they were not properly bled when the last shop changed them but I moved from MI to TX so I won't be taking it back to the same store.

Is there a way to know whether the booster is bad? I don't want to spend a lot of money on these brakes as I plan to either upgrade the brake system and other things or get rid of the car completely but obviously I don't want to be driving it as is either in the meantime.

Brakes on 1997 Camaro really spongy, Tahoe seems super touchy, motorcycle seems fine... not sure how it's supposed to feel on the old camaro's.

Also some time last week I was in the Taco Bell drive-thru and I heard a weird clunk noise sounding like it came from my right rear under the car? I was barely moving and didnt' see anything on the ground after I left.. the brake assembly appears to be normal, nothing hanging.. no noises from the brakes.. but I do have a small oil leak that gets on the belt and makes the car squeel as you turn without giving the car gas.. can this effect the vacuum system and booster for the brakes?

Injuneer

Brake fluid is a maintenance item, and should be flushed and replaced more than once every 17 years. The fluid absorbs and holds water, and causes corrosion throughout the system. If your master was dry, there's a serious leak somewhere (when was the last time you checked the level?). The "BRAKE" light should have come on, indicating a differential pressure between the front and rear hydraulic systems. If you experienced an extremely hard stop, there's also the possibility that the hoses that connect to the calipers have swollen and are contributing to a soft pedal.

Before flushing the system, it needs to be totally inspected by a highly trained brake specialist.

Why are you looking for a problem with the vacuum booster? That would make the brake pedal harder to depress. Is that also a problem you are experiencing? And no, a slipping serpentine belt will not cause low vacuum and problems with the brake booster.

The squeal is the belt slipping as you turn the wheel and place a load on the power steering pump. Sounds like the car has not had good, regular maintenance.

eanhl2004

I am the 3rd owner of the vehicle. I just had work done on the brakes two years ago which is about 2,000 to 7,000 miles ago. (I haven't really been driving it much as I don't drive it in the rain and I ride the motorcycle as much as possible. the work done was new pads/master cylinder and rotors resurfaced which was done due to the hard braking incident)

I'm not a brake specialist, obviously, just trying to figure out my best options.

I don't see a plug at the master cylinder for brake fluid level so is it reserve only?

I don't see a 'clear' fluid level mark on the master cylinder (not stock) is it the line aka seam about halfway from top to bottom of the resevoir? I say it was bone dry as I stuck my finger down in it and didn't seem to touch any fluid, there are cross members made of plastic inside though. according to a picture I saw in the 'manual' the line is supposed to be about 1/3 high?

No lights are on!

I asked about the Booster because I don't know much about it, and there was fluid around it where the master cylinder mounts to it, of course there was some when the old master cylinder was there.. so I cleaned it and am keeping an eye on it. I guess from what you say there is no issue with the Booster!

Who is an 'EXPERT' on brakes.

Dealership
JustBrakes
Midas

suggestions? I live in Arlington, TX

eanhl2004

Took it to Midas, $63 for flush and bleed and the brakes seem to be a bit more resistive. There is a mess of fluid around the booster now though along with around the cap.. they made it in the process I guess will clean it again when the car cools down to keep an eye out for any leaks!

Injuneer

There is no sensor for low brake fluid level. The pressure differential switch on the side of the ABS motor unit will pick up an air bubble due to low fluid, and turn on the "BRAKE" light, but by then it's too late - you have air in the system. You need to check the master cylinder reservoir regularly.

There should be a fluid level mark located inside the neck of the reservoir fill opening. Take the cap off, and look in the fill neck. At the very bottom of the neck is a small rectangle. That is the maximum fill level. Just keep the fluid up to the top of the reservoir/bottom of the fill neck. It will drop very slowly as the pads wear, but there should not be any sudden loss of fluid level.

If they did major replacements, they probably flushed the system. Tecnically, when you do that you're supposed to replace all rubber parts that may have deterorated frmo exposure to the water-contaminated fluid. But this is not always done, or if done, is not completely done. The factory manual recommends replacing the combination valve, the pressure modulator valve, calipers.

It's not easy to bleed the system. First you need to bleed the lines from the master to the brake pressure switch, by slowly unscrewing the pipe connectors (no bleeders at that point), then the two bleeders on the ABS motor unit, then the individual calipers. If there is a code set for the ABS system, you need a Tech-2 to "home" the ABS motors before you can bleed the system.

eanhl2004

Yeah it's hard since I rarely drive it... I can check every 10,000 miles and that would be every 3 years. I guess I need to check once every year at least especially right after major brake work. I don't recall any warning lights even after the 4 car pile-up that I missed by mere inches even though essentially my brakes went out and I was scared to drive the car 2 miles to get it fixed!

I am pretty sure the ABS is where the mechanic who worked on it FAILED, as he failed to bleed the air out of the radiator after installing a new radiator/hoses/water pump...

I haven't seen a line/box inside the neck of the fluid reservoir... but I did look to see where they filled it to and it's right where you said. It's an aftermarket part so it probably doesn't have one.

Thanks for your help... I'm keeping a close eye on the brake fluid now!!

Injuneer

Routine monthly or bi-monthly checks should include the coolant, oil, brake fluid, trans fluid on an automatic. Just a precaution. Your car does have a coolant level light, an oil level light, the "BRAKE" light will react to extremely low fluid, no warning on the trans. By the time the oil level light comes on, you are too low. The coolant level light is erratic at best.