Bone Stock Z28 Help Needed on chassis and suspension! Greatly appreciated!
#1
Bone Stock Z28 Help Needed on chassis and suspension! Greatly appreciated!
Whats up everyone! Im looking for some wisdom on my 96 z28 all stock..for now. I would like to know if i should do some real serious suspension and chassis modifications or something simple. I just want better handling for instance on better cornering and maneuvering as i still like to mess around in this beast. I dont want to go all out either and spend all my money because my future upgrades Are; complete new exhaust system, CAI and some new wheels. I do use it as a daily driver with only 80,000 on the clock but i do like going up against weakstangs when they come across. ANY GUIDANCE, INFORMATION AND WISDOM IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!
#3
Re: Bone Stock Z28 Help Needed on chassis and suspension! Greatly appreciated!
Here's my recipe for 4th Gen. autocross handling:
-BMR Strut Tower Brace
-BMR Lower Control Arms
-BMR LCA Relocation Brackets
-BMR Tunnel Brace
-Subframe Connectors
-Strano Performance Parts Hollow Sway Bars (35mm Front / 22mm Rear)
-Strano Performance Parts Lowering Springs
-Koni 4/3 Single Adjustable Shocks
-Adj. Panhard Bar
The only thing I may add one of these days is the Adjustable Torque Arm.
However, I've probably easily got a couple of grand invested in what I've already got...
-BMR Strut Tower Brace
-BMR Lower Control Arms
-BMR LCA Relocation Brackets
-BMR Tunnel Brace
-Subframe Connectors
-Strano Performance Parts Hollow Sway Bars (35mm Front / 22mm Rear)
-Strano Performance Parts Lowering Springs
-Koni 4/3 Single Adjustable Shocks
-Adj. Panhard Bar
The only thing I may add one of these days is the Adjustable Torque Arm.
However, I've probably easily got a couple of grand invested in what I've already got...
#4
#5
Re: Bone Stock Z28 Help Needed on chassis and suspension! Greatly appreciated!
Here's my recipe for 4th Gen. autocross handling:
-BMR Strut Tower Brace
-BMR Lower Control Arms
-BMR LCA Relocation Brackets
-BMR Tunnel Brace
-Subframe Connectors
-Strano Performance Parts Hollow Sway Bars (35mm Front / 22mm Rear)
-Strano Performance Parts Lowering Springs
-Koni 4/3 Single Adjustable Shocks
-Adj. Panhard Bar
The only thing I may add one of these days is the Adjustable Torque Arm.
However, I've probably easily got a couple of grand invested in what I've already got...
-BMR Strut Tower Brace
-BMR Lower Control Arms
-BMR LCA Relocation Brackets
-BMR Tunnel Brace
-Subframe Connectors
-Strano Performance Parts Hollow Sway Bars (35mm Front / 22mm Rear)
-Strano Performance Parts Lowering Springs
-Koni 4/3 Single Adjustable Shocks
-Adj. Panhard Bar
The only thing I may add one of these days is the Adjustable Torque Arm.
However, I've probably easily got a couple of grand invested in what I've already got...
#6
Re: Bone Stock Z28 Help Needed on chassis and suspension! Greatly appreciated!
I bought my '98 Z28 new just a couple of years after I finished college, so I certainly understand starting off on a budget! Here's the order I did mine in:
1st - STB (Strut Tower Brace) - Inexpensive, EASY to install, and I noticed the difference the first time I took a corner hard. It keeps the front wheels planted!
2nd - LCA (Lower Control Arms) - Inexpensive, EASY to install, and solved rear wheel hop on hard launches
3rd - Tunnel Brace w/drive shaft loop - Inexpensive, mainly did it as a safety issue, but to be honest, not really something I felt any difference with.
4th - Lowered the car and all of this needs to be done at the same time:
-Springs (obviosly to lower the car)
-Koni Shocks (to make driving a lowered car tolerable - DON'T GO CHEAP ON SHOCKS!)
-LCA Relocation Brackets (to fix wheel hop now that the car is lowered)
-Adj. Panhard Bar (to re-center the rear end now that the car is lowered)
5th - Strano Hollow Sway Bars - Fairly easy to install and yes, a noticeable difference in cornering.
6th - Sub Frame Connectors - I used bolt in for an easy install, but I do need to have them welded in place one of these days. I have friends that swear SFC's should be the first mod on our cars, period. However, to be honest I didn't feel that much of a difference with them, but since I did them last, it might not have been as obvious.
You did mention that you think you're already lowered. If you can confirm that you are, then make sure the mods that accompany lowering are all completed as well. If they aren't, start there first IMO. Oh, and when I say don't go cheap on shocks, I learned this the hard way...I had to swap springs/shocks TWICE. I found a deal on a set of Eibach springs and a set of cheap OEM style shocks. I installed them, liked the look, but the car was MISERABLE to drive. It didn't handle well, rode rough, and got to the point that I hated driving it. I knew I wanted to stay lowered, and after researching what it would take to make me happy again, went ahead and saved close to a grand to go with Strano Springs and Koni Adj. shocks. I can now make it ride VERY close to stock if I put all the shocks on the softest setting, or if I want to tear up a road course, I can substantially firm everything up to handle well too. The car is MUCH better with quality springs/shocks!
1st - STB (Strut Tower Brace) - Inexpensive, EASY to install, and I noticed the difference the first time I took a corner hard. It keeps the front wheels planted!
2nd - LCA (Lower Control Arms) - Inexpensive, EASY to install, and solved rear wheel hop on hard launches
3rd - Tunnel Brace w/drive shaft loop - Inexpensive, mainly did it as a safety issue, but to be honest, not really something I felt any difference with.
4th - Lowered the car and all of this needs to be done at the same time:
-Springs (obviosly to lower the car)
-Koni Shocks (to make driving a lowered car tolerable - DON'T GO CHEAP ON SHOCKS!)
-LCA Relocation Brackets (to fix wheel hop now that the car is lowered)
-Adj. Panhard Bar (to re-center the rear end now that the car is lowered)
5th - Strano Hollow Sway Bars - Fairly easy to install and yes, a noticeable difference in cornering.
6th - Sub Frame Connectors - I used bolt in for an easy install, but I do need to have them welded in place one of these days. I have friends that swear SFC's should be the first mod on our cars, period. However, to be honest I didn't feel that much of a difference with them, but since I did them last, it might not have been as obvious.
You did mention that you think you're already lowered. If you can confirm that you are, then make sure the mods that accompany lowering are all completed as well. If they aren't, start there first IMO. Oh, and when I say don't go cheap on shocks, I learned this the hard way...I had to swap springs/shocks TWICE. I found a deal on a set of Eibach springs and a set of cheap OEM style shocks. I installed them, liked the look, but the car was MISERABLE to drive. It didn't handle well, rode rough, and got to the point that I hated driving it. I knew I wanted to stay lowered, and after researching what it would take to make me happy again, went ahead and saved close to a grand to go with Strano Springs and Koni Adj. shocks. I can now make it ride VERY close to stock if I put all the shocks on the softest setting, or if I want to tear up a road course, I can substantially firm everything up to handle well too. The car is MUCH better with quality springs/shocks!
Last edited by BandDirector Blk98ZM6; 05-21-2014 at 09:13 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TheGreenZ28
Exhaust System
0
12-06-2014 10:23 PM
CobraEatr
Car Audio and Electronics
3
07-22-2002 09:49 AM