BTC

Has anyone here ever followed the brake system pressure bleeding procedure as laid out in the factory service manual for those without a Tech 1?

If it would help, I can post the entire the procedure, but I have questions about the following steps, specifically step 17.

14. Remove pressure to the pressure bleeding
equipment.
15. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the right
front wheel bleeder valve and submerge opposite
hose end in a clean container partially filled with
clean brake fluid.
16. Turn the ignition "ON."
17. Open the bleeder valve and apply the brake until
the red "BRAKE" warning lamp turns "ON." This
shuttles the brake pressure differential warning
valve.
18. Close bleeder valve.
19. Reapply pressure to pressure bleeding equipment.
20. Turn the ignition "OFF."

Over Christmas, I installed some springs, shocks, rotors, pads and stainless steel brake lines on my car. When I got around to bleeding the brakes, I could never get the Brake warning lamp to come on in Step 17.

I tried pushing the pedal down and holding it, which is what they seem to be telling you to do. I also tried pumping the brake pedal, which also did not get the warning lamp to come on. What I did not do was pump the brakes until the master cylinder ran dry of fluid, but if that is what's necessary, it's not spelled out very clearly.

Anyway, just curious if anyone might be able to provide some insight on exactly what's necessary for step 17. I eventually gave up and just completed the remainder of the process as spelled out in the FSM. After completing these steps, you essentially repeat almost everything you have done up to this point, so maybe you are supposed to pump the pedal until the master cylinder is low on fluid, or dry.

The brakes seem to be working, but I haven't really driven the car, at least not to the point of reaching any significant speeds. I just drove it around the driveway after I was finished.

Injuneer

Wonder if the differential pressure switch is "stuck" after the car was not driven for 8 years? I know they sometimes stick in the "on" position, so a bit of corrosion from old, water saturated brake fluid might have locked it in the "off" position.

BTC

I have not been very active on this site in a while and would just like to say thanks for the response. I think you are one of the perks this site has over the "other" site, or sites.

I should probably update my signature. The car has actually been "sitting" since October of 2000. My brother & I have been working on getting it back up and running since the latter part of approximately 2006-2007. Since the last round of work over Christmas, it could probably be considered drivable once again. It's kind of a long story, but in a nutshell I parked the car due to an issue, bought something else, and for a number of reasons it sat untouched in my dad's garage for 6-7 years. Let's just say it needed lots of TLC once we got it out of his garage.

Any idea where this differential pressure switch would be located and what the ramifications would be if it's not working correctly? I have not dug through the FSM, but perhaps it might have some additional info.

Would you interpret those instructions to mean the switch should have toggled by simply depressing the brake pedal and holding it down?

Injuneer

It's part of the combination valve on the side of the ABS motor pack.... the two lines from the master cylinder screw into it. Wire connected on top is the differential pressure switch.

It has a "shuttle" that has front brake pressure on one side and rear brake pressure on the other. As long as both front and rear have the same strong pressure, the shuttle stays in the middle. When pressures are not equal (as in opening one bleeder valve while applying pedal pressure), the shuttle moves to one side and the "BRAKE" light comes on.

Thanks for the positive feedback. The site isn't what it used to be. Chris and Jason sold the site a few years back. It never attracted any 5th or 6th Gen owners. The "Administrator" hasn't signed into the site in more than a year. I'm trying to hold it together as an LT1 site. Very few others (V6, Classic, 3rd Gen, LS1) come here any more. The only other moderator that participates, that I am aware of, is Jake Robb. Shoebox is here, and a handfull of LT1 diehards that offer advice as required. I'm older than dirt, retired and going to be selling my car in the Spring. But I'll hold on here as long as I can.

gaedbo

Wow, sorry to hear that. You have been an enormous help to so many. I am amazed at how much information you have been able to store in that head of yours, with such detail, you definitely have been given a gift.

I wish you the best of life and luck in whatever you are going to be doing......

BTC

I was able to get a bit more info from my service manual, but not a whole lot. It did at least explain what this valve does and I get the impression it may not be a huge deal if it is not working properly?

I'm not sure I qualify for the older than dirt category yet, but I'm getting there. I turned 50 last year, which seems kind of crazy. Time marches on and before you know it you are left wondering where it went. I bought my car new and it's hard to believe it's now been 24-25 years ago.

I put performance/lowering springs and new shocks on my car over Christmas. It had already gotten difficult for me to get in and out. Now it's worse. It's also got limo tint all around. So, I can't get in or out of it and I can't see in our out of it. Having said that, I'm still looking forward to being able to drive it again.

This is the first Camaro site I found. I'm not sure any of the LT1 sites are what they used to be. The other site doesn't seem to get nearly as much traffic compared to just a few years ago, at least in the LT1 space. It may be nothing more than my perception, but I always felt like I got better information here. The crowd seemed younger, and perhaps not quite as knowledgeable, elsewhere.