Newbie needs help lt1 383 f1 procharger
01-03-2017, 11:07 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 1
Newbie needs help lt1 383 f1 procharger
First time posting on a forum, so forgive me if I get something wrong. I have owned a shop for 20+ years. I raced dirt modifieds for years and built all kinds of hot rods and pro street cars. Plenty of nitrous experience, but no forced air.
I just bought a 1994 z28 because my son wants to go drag racing. All the guys I know like carburetors and nitrous. So I'm looking to y'all for some help. The guy I bought it from , bought it this way and knows very little about it. I have limited info on build.
What I know about the car...
383 forged internals
Cc306 cam
Lt4 Loyd Elliot ported heads and intake
F1 procharger
Siemens 60lb injectors
Custom wet nitrous spray bar thru tb
Big tube headers, gutted muffler, no cats
Lost of aftermarket all over the car.
He was running it at 8 pounds boost and doesn't remember what size nitrous pills were in it. There are no jets in it now. What is safe?
Also, this has been setting for a year or so. When we fired it up it had 20 pounds of fuel pressure. We pulled the fuel pump and it had two walbro pumps in the tank. I need to replace the sending unit and the pumps. I'm sure there is a better way to do this. What are my options?
I just bought a 1994 z28 because my son wants to go drag racing. All the guys I know like carburetors and nitrous. So I'm looking to y'all for some help. The guy I bought it from , bought it this way and knows very little about it. I have limited info on build.
What I know about the car...
383 forged internals
Cc306 cam
Lt4 Loyd Elliot ported heads and intake
F1 procharger
Siemens 60lb injectors
Custom wet nitrous spray bar thru tb
Big tube headers, gutted muffler, no cats
Lost of aftermarket all over the car.
He was running it at 8 pounds boost and doesn't remember what size nitrous pills were in it. There are no jets in it now. What is safe?
Also, this has been setting for a year or so. When we fired it up it had 20 pounds of fuel pressure. We pulled the fuel pump and it had two walbro pumps in the tank. I need to replace the sending unit and the pumps. I'm sure there is a better way to do this. What are my options?
01-04-2017, 01:02 AM
#2
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,646
Re: Newbie needs help lt1 383 f1 procharger
I'm going to move this to the "Forced Induction" forum. More likely to get meaningful help there. But you have to be patient. People don't seem to check in as often as they used to. But when they do, they can usually provide good help.
The topic title will remain in "LT1 Based Engine Tech", but when anyone clicks on it, they will be taken to the thread in "Forced Induction".
The topic title will remain in "LT1 Based Engine Tech", but when anyone clicks on it, they will be taken to the thread in "Forced Induction".
04-26-2017, 10:05 PM
#4
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,228
Re: Newbie needs help lt1 383 f1 procharger
Actually the dual walbro 255 were the thing to do back then, running one on a Hobbs switch, and I wouldn't think they would go bad sitting a year. Check your wiring as stated. I would suspect a bad ground though from an unused vehicle, or pesky mice gnawing at your harness.
The relay is under the carpet on driver side if I recall , under the foot rest, but somebody may have run a "hot wire" kit, which was also the thing to do for these setup'. You can search any of these things here if you don't understand and will find plenty of reading. I built most of my car from info learned here.
lonnies dual racetronix kit was a good option if you don't want to build your own pump setup. Now I read guys are using a 340 pump on Hobbs switch and 255 pump for main fueling. The pinch is going to be the lines themselves if they haven't been upgraded, but I don't know how far you plan to push the F1?
As far as the pumps you got, I wouldn't run out and buy anything without double checking proper voltage, and ground, and not just continuity test. Try lighting a headlamp bulb, or do voltage drop test. You won't find a wire holding on by 2 stands with continuity, but you might find corrosion and such that way. I would start from the relay input and output with a HEAD light bulb straight to good ground and it should be bright. Then if good, check again@pump, but obvious caution needs to be taken messing with live wires if you got the pumps out and tank open with fuel/fumes. If that's the case you need to wire the test bulb in before you key on to avoid sparking or breaking the lit/hot bulb.
If you're only going drag racing, you might consider a fuel cell and bypass all this nonsense we do to keep it street worthy. We do the dual 255s mainly to keep the bucket, but I know some people still remove the bucket when making this mod. The fear was fuel slosh with a low fuel tank, causing a lean spike, which is never good with forced induction.
Search, read, learn, good luck. I'm in the process of putting mine back together as we speak. Bigger, better, faster, and hopefully more reliable this time around. 383 T trim , intercooled, meth and maybe a little juice if I can't get to low 10 s in full weight. Have a feeling I'll be upgrading to 4L80 in near future. Keep us posted, always nice to see someone else still messing with these engines!
The relay is under the carpet on driver side if I recall , under the foot rest, but somebody may have run a "hot wire" kit, which was also the thing to do for these setup'. You can search any of these things here if you don't understand and will find plenty of reading. I built most of my car from info learned here.
lonnies dual racetronix kit was a good option if you don't want to build your own pump setup. Now I read guys are using a 340 pump on Hobbs switch and 255 pump for main fueling. The pinch is going to be the lines themselves if they haven't been upgraded, but I don't know how far you plan to push the F1?
As far as the pumps you got, I wouldn't run out and buy anything without double checking proper voltage, and ground, and not just continuity test. Try lighting a headlamp bulb, or do voltage drop test. You won't find a wire holding on by 2 stands with continuity, but you might find corrosion and such that way. I would start from the relay input and output with a HEAD light bulb straight to good ground and it should be bright. Then if good, check again@pump, but obvious caution needs to be taken messing with live wires if you got the pumps out and tank open with fuel/fumes. If that's the case you need to wire the test bulb in before you key on to avoid sparking or breaking the lit/hot bulb.
If you're only going drag racing, you might consider a fuel cell and bypass all this nonsense we do to keep it street worthy. We do the dual 255s mainly to keep the bucket, but I know some people still remove the bucket when making this mod. The fear was fuel slosh with a low fuel tank, causing a lean spike, which is never good with forced induction.
Search, read, learn, good luck. I'm in the process of putting mine back together as we speak. Bigger, better, faster, and hopefully more reliable this time around. 383 T trim , intercooled, meth and maybe a little juice if I can't get to low 10 s in full weight. Have a feeling I'll be upgrading to 4L80 in near future. Keep us posted, always nice to see someone else still messing with these engines!