good brand of sfc
good brand of sfc
well, my motor's done, now i need to worry about suspension.
monique has an stb, eibac springs (1.5), she needs to know what else she needs to stay on the road better...to change lanes at high speeds without much recourse.
since i love her so much, i was considering getting her Double Diamond sfc's, because they connect to the tranny as well, but i'm being told that they arent much better than the edelbroc sfcs.
please advise. and look at my profile to see what monique already has.
thanks a lot
--shokor--
monique has an stb, eibac springs (1.5), she needs to know what else she needs to stay on the road better...to change lanes at high speeds without much recourse.
since i love her so much, i was considering getting her Double Diamond sfc's, because they connect to the tranny as well, but i'm being told that they arent much better than the edelbroc sfcs.
please advise. and look at my profile to see what monique already has.
thanks a lot
--shokor--
I have tubular SFCs from BMR, have nothing to really compare them too, but when I had them I only had an STB and it really made a difference, you dont know the flex you have until you have subframes.
Here is another recent thread
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...threadid=84671
If you already have tubular, I'd probably leave them alone and look at something else perhaps upgrade wise...
Here is another recent thread
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...threadid=84671
If you already have tubular, I'd probably leave them alone and look at something else perhaps upgrade wise...
yeah, they're tubular. how about a panhard? is my stock one alright? as far as the link you gave me, the global west 905's was being promoted. one thing though: does the fact that the DD's connect to the tranny as well help any? i mean, since the most sfcs are two-point connectors. the DD's are 3 point-connectors.
I have the triangular SLP SFCs on my car. I haven't had them long, but they are "boxed" steel, weigh 21 lbs each, and hook to the front subframe (duh), the driveshaft loop, and the LCA. They look very strong. I'll let you know more as I go along, but they sure seem more substantial than many other brands.
Double Diamonds certainly help tie everything together better, but that doesn't make them best.
If you're drag racing, the extra weight over a 2 point tubular may not be worth it.
If you're building an SCCA eligible autocross car, you can't have the crossbracing of double diamonds.
If you want to have a road racer, then I think you can more easily justify double diamonds.
Would anyone disagree?
If you're drag racing, the extra weight over a 2 point tubular may not be worth it.
If you're building an SCCA eligible autocross car, you can't have the crossbracing of double diamonds.
If you want to have a road racer, then I think you can more easily justify double diamonds.
Would anyone disagree?
Weight kills a road raced car even more than drag, drag racers can make up for it with horsepower, you can't do that on a road car (because tires/brakes/handling issues).
I'm happy with tubular, and they are supprisingly light (BMR). Is there a difference and how much? I dont know.
I'm happy with tubular, and they are supprisingly light (BMR). Is there a difference and how much? I dont know.
i just want something really good.
if the weight can be justified by the increase in handling, then they're worth it to me. besides, what's 40 lbs when i've already got a 100lb sub in the back.
--shokor--
if the weight can be justified by the increase in handling, then they're worth it to me. besides, what's 40 lbs when i've already got a 100lb sub in the back.
--shokor--
I have boxed BMR's.. they do hang slightly down by less than an inch more.. One thing I like about them is I can use it to jack up on.. Lift in the middle and the whole side of the car goes up as one. Or lift on a corner and the three other wheels act accordigly..
If someone was going to build a roadracer, probably would just skip the sfc's and just install a cage....
If someone was going to build a roadracer, probably would just skip the sfc's and just install a cage....
I'd go for both cage and subs if "serious," I was close to getting boxed subframes, almost dont know why I didn't other than the claim of losing ground clearance. I scrape the exaust, dont know that subframes would be that close to the ground on the speed bumps in my area. Once in awhile on road trips though you will come across areas with strange and huge speed bumps.
Most folks I know use the Kenny Brown (double diamond) or Global West. I have both, the Global West on my race car (3rd gen) and the KBs on my 4th gen. both are very sturdy. I think road race folks lean towards the GW, they can be jacked up on just about any point, not so much with the KBs.
The GWs are .125 roll bar tubing if I remember right.
The GWs are .125 roll bar tubing if I remember right.
i'm not concerned about jackin the car up at every point...as long as it can be jacked up without a big hassle.
as far as the suggestion for the cage, that's gonna happen for a whiiiiiiiile. i appreciate everyone giving me their opinions; for a while, i was suffering from car-junky's block.
--shokor--
as far as the suggestion for the cage, that's gonna happen for a whiiiiiiiile. i appreciate everyone giving me their opinions; for a while, i was suffering from car-junky's block.
--shokor--


