i was thinking about using my line lock on the launch to help preseve my drivetrain a bit more .. and it just might lead me to better short times !!

say u preload ur drivetrain by just slightly slipping the clutch after staging while holing the line .. i got a street twin, so im not sure how much "slipping" i can get done .. but i'll practice on the street first for sure..

by preloading the drivetrain u take that massive M6 shock out, saving ur rear end and quite possibly cutting down the 60

what are ur ideas ?

 

I've tried that a couple of times but every time I got the clutch so hot that it would slip. It would take up to a minute before it would cool down and grip again. I didn't have a street twin though like you so maybe it might work. Afterall, its only money. I had my tranny out 3 times last year for clutch problems.

BTW, you get some killer reaction times that way thought coz all you have to do is let go of a button

 

Old post, but I didnt want to start a new one!


Has anyone else been doing this with a street twin? How much clutch travel is needed to preload?

I only ask b/c I have my setup wired so that when I pop the clutch, the 2 step and linelock will deactivate, and the nitrous will activate.

Does the clutch safety switch stay engaged? I guess I will have to get the multimeter out and measure when the car is off of jacks!

 

I wired my rev limiter to my line lock so I can get my launch rpm "set".

 

I'm using my rev limiter (crane ignition) for launch rpm, not max rev limiting.

 

huh?

 

I can't imagine a street twin being slipped that much.

 

Thats what I was thinking. Wont this wear the clutch out QUICKLY? Since i'm sure it is just on the flywheel surface just wearing material down?

 

The Street Twin is not a sloppy clutch. It is designed to hold HIGH torque applications. I don't know anyone personally with the S/T clutch but I have been told that it is aggressive. I have a RAM clutch in my SS and a SPEC stage 3 carbon in my 00 WS6 and neither one of those would allow me to slip them while using a line lock. Just get a good rear-end...12 bolt or 9 inch and dump the clutch!

 

you can slip the s/t.. there is just a very very small window to do it.. very finicky.. can't wait to drive my car again!!

 

Its not a debate of the strength of the clutch, its trying to preserve the components, aka transmission, behind the clutch.

 

My ignition box has a feature that when 12V is applied it will limit the rpm. So if you want to launch at 5K rpm you can set the ignition box to 5K and wire the switch to your line lock (12V source). This way you can just hold your foot on the gas, say 50% throttle, and the limiter will keep your rpms at 5K until you let go of your line lock switch. This makes it easier to launch at your desired rpm.

 

ya thats a 2step

I think i'll just keep it how I have it, dont want to put excess heat and stress on the clutch.

 

I understand this...but its going to be tough to slip an aggressive clutch that long while being staged. You had better plan on replacing at least the disk in a very short time. The S/T among other aggressive LS1 clutches are simply not designed to be slipped.

 

I tried the linelock preloading deal and I could just never get it right. There's just too much going on to concentrate and cut a decent light. Let's see" Maintain 5000RPM, Let the clutch fly with one foot, Peg the throttle with the other foot, Release the line lock with the right hand. All simultaneously! I gave up on this approach when I forgot to let go of the line loc and pushed the front end about 20' down the track LMFAO.

I finally just rigged my line lock to release when I let the clutch fly. This just keeps me from rolling out of the lights. I can count on trashing at least one set of gears every season.

Steve