like lca's, the brackets,phr,torque arm(sphon), sfc,stb,eibach springs, etc.. and still from a dead stop with nitto tires my car will roast them threw all the gears and its a a4. with just intake exhaust, gears and stall. i feel as if no one should waste there money on buying suspension cause it doesnt do anything besides make the ride more harsh and noisy.(rant)

 

Lowering a car generally doesn't help traction, but your other parts should have made up some of the difference.

What about shocks?

Do you really have 20" wheels?

How big is your stall?

Do you know how to feather the throttle?

 

20'S .. YES but even with the stocks they roast. 28 stall.. and yes thats what i do now feather it i have to or they will roast. i want to be able to smash it and go

 

Most of those mods you listed are for going around corners and curves faster, not for straight-line drag race launches....you need softer springs and shocks for better weight transfer to really plant those rear tires, and it probably wouldn't hurt to remove your front sway bar, too...

I just did a few suspension mods, and it's totally transformed my Z28. Now the suspension feels balanced with the drivetrain, and I don't have to slow down nearly as much to corner...

But I'm more into road racing than drag racing, so I couldn't care less about my 60' times...we want totally different things from our suspension.

 

I agree, definitely don't do any suspension mods IF YOU DONT KNOW WHAT THE HECK YOU ARE DOING.

You probably made you car worst for launching.

 

He didnt make it worst, all those mods can be used for either road racing or drag. But you should know your plans borfire modding, I do agree

Check your pinion angle, the torque arm should be adjustable and may need set. A good driving angle is -2 degrees, hower as much as a -6 can be used for launching etc., just play with it.

 

You need some real tires under there, too. The sidewall on 20s is so small that you have to flex for launching. Stock tires could really use some width if you have any power.

Is your car for bling-bling or for performance? Sooner or later you have to decide.

 

I have done most of the same and think it has helped both launching and road racing performance. Any problems with wheel hop?

 

it did help out the wheel hop i dont have that anymore thank god. blingbling? i dont race with the 20's on and there racing wheels btw. i guess i need some qa1's dunno will see how the car does with the lt4cam and headers installed probably will burn the tires worse

 

Like he said, you just can't throw parts at a car and expect it to work. The panhard won't help your launch, and neither will a STB. Eibach springs certainly won't help a launch either. It's likely they may hinder your launch. New springs and shocks for starters, and check your tq arm angle as suggested. If you're still unhappy, buy some ET Streets and then let us know if hooking is still an issue.

 

Tires will make the biggest difference, I don,t care what suspension mods you have, if you have regular old street type tires you will spin them all day long if you have any real horsepower.
I talk from expierence. I have the Eibach drag launch kit, BMR relo brackets, lakewood LCAs and PHB and a BMR adjustable TA, with my Potenza,s on the car it will spin for days no matter what I set the TA and shocks and air bag at.
With 275/50/15 DRs on its a whole nother story.
I agree that you need to figure out what exactly you want the car to do, if you want it to hook then forget the lowering and cornering stuff and set the car up to launch. If you want to have it lowered and run the 20s and have it corner good then forget about getting it to hook the best it can.
Tires will make a world of difference but if you want the car to do one thing very well then you have to compromise.
I don,t have a front sway bar and my car is usually running on 15x6 fronts and 15x10 rears needless to say I don,t take corners very fast but ever since I set the suspension up for drag racing its done that VERY well.
A friend of mine has an LS1 firebird thats lowered with the bling wheels etc, he dynoed 332 RWHP, My LT1 is putting down 300 at the most (probably closer to 290) and I kill him stoplight to stoplight, he catches me on the big end in a long enough race but its my suspension that forces him to play catchup.
Sorry this is so long but suspension parts in my opinion (along with sticky tires) are one of the best things you can do for your car drag racing wise.

 

thanks for the advise bud.. yeah im selling the 20's and going to put some 17x11 tt2's with drs will see what happens then thanks again

 

I upgraded the rear suspension...

BMR TA (Set to -2*)
Aluminum Heim-Jointed LCAs and PHR
And a Strange 12-Bolt...

With mild mods to the motor (Intake and exhaust)

I can dump my SLP Clutch at ~3500 with Nitto DR's pre-heated and hook; HARD... It actually takes some effort to get my car sideways and just to break loose.. 275/40ZR17's...

the sidewalls on the 20's defenetly don't help straight line traction, the relocation brackets should take car of the lowering issue, but I don't know about those Eibach springs and how they effect it, I'm still running my WS6 springs until I go to full Koni Coil-Overs.

 

1 word: M/T ET DRs.

Your rear will love you.

 

M/T ET DRs. like nitto dr's?