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04-09-2004, 01:27 PM
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#1
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Banned FOR SCAMMING - Nick[William] Dascal - (516) 931-0586
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Levittown, NEW YORK
Posts: 497
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Cant Get My Wheels Off!!!
Ok today i was going to paint my calipers, so i jack the right rear up take off the bolts and lock, and i am beating the crap out of the wheel from the inside and it will NOT move. its gotta be rusted to hell, so anyone have any ideas or sumthin i can spray on it.
Thanks!
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04-09-2004, 02:13 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Houston, Tx USA
Posts: 4,565
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what kind of wheels do you have?
Aluminum doesnt "rust" it corrodes.. meaning it disolves in a gross manner.. heh
It shouldnt be stuck.. thats just odd...
I am guessing that your axle or part of your brake assembly is stuck inside your wheel hub..
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Psycho Cabbage
2002 Camaro Z28/FLS6B(5-02) - (6 sp)
Bone Stock and Cruise Control equiped Stripper!
My Page
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04-09-2004, 02:48 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 507
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man thats weird. the worst i ever saw I had to give one side of the wheel, two good kicks with the bottom side of my foot and it broke loose. otherwise try something like 'remove-all" or "liquid-wrech" to remove corrosion or rust or whatever you got goin on back there.
if you use any of them chemicals dont get any on the face of your rim, or atleast wipe/wash it off asap
Last edited by FLyinlow89; 04-09-2004 at 02:51 PM.
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04-09-2004, 03:16 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Premium Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Glendale, Ca
Posts: 3,649
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this happens at work a lot. take a heavy dead blow hammer, and bang the **** from the inside. hit the wheel if need be. rotate it to to loosen from all sides. spray wd40 or any other lube penatrating **** around the hub. also try hitting it from the front
we had an s10 in one time. took nearly 40 minutes to get one wheel off.:Eek: my boss had to go buy a long handled sledge hammer to get the job done!!!
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-Zack-
1996 Pontiac Trans Am-A4--3.23--OBDI--Ram Air--Edelbrock Headers--Borla Exhaust--Hotchkis STB/Sway Bars/PHB/LCA--18x9.5/18x11 ACE Slick--275/35/18--315/30/18 NT01
2003.5 MAZDASPEED Protegé-#2516 of 3850-Coilovers--GTSpec Braces--Intake--FMIC--Thermal R&D exhaust--Direzza Star Specs
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04-09-2004, 09:17 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 343
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This brings back memories. When I put my just finished customized oems on in place of my originals, my wheel finisher had the hardest time getting my originals off. Prior to that day, they were never taken off of the car since I took delivery on it.
Give it a few good yanks and it should give. The two metals can bond like that (especially if they were torqued too tightly). If you're still having trouble, pick up wd40 or liquid wrench, and try it again in 15-20 minutes. Don't panic, the wheel will eventually come off.
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"Mr.3251" '02 SS SOM
1 of 283 '02 SS SOM A4's
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Lester; Lifba member #021; www.lifba.com.
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04-12-2004, 10:48 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 377
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I love NY!!
I remember reading in the paper a couple of years ago they had to shut down some of the electric and spray the lines and poles down because salt was getting thrown up there and shorting out the insulators.
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Cranberry Red 69
SS Convertible
95 LT-1 / 4L60E
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04-12-2004, 05:02 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Posts: 501
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zack
this happens at work a lot. take a heavy dead blow hammer, and bang the **** from the inside. hit the wheel if need be. rotate it to to loosen from all sides. spray wd40 or any other lube penatrating **** around the hub. also try hitting it from the front
we had an s10 in one time. took nearly 40 minutes to get one wheel off.:Eek: my boss had to go buy a long handled sledge hammer to get the job done!!!
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Yep thats what your gonna have to do. Give it the ole wd40-n-wack the h**l outta it routine. Dont know why it wont come off unless your studs have miraculously melted onto your wheel. Have you been out there racing young man?LOL LOL Naw really I have seen wheels get stuck and have to have the studs "blowtorched" off because of high racing heat. before you start hittin it, make sure you put a nicely inflated wheel or jack stand underneath (not the OEM wimpy jack)
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StangKilla1
1986 Z-28 305 4 bolt main/B&M 350T/fiberglass rear enclosure/fiberglass headliner
2000 Camaro - 20" Lowenharts (soon 2 B LS1)...and the glassing begins!!
Some talk....I drive!!!
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04-14-2004, 05:01 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Modsto, CA, USA
Posts: 7
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DON'T USE WD40!!!!
IF YOU DO KEEP IT AWAY FROM THE BRAKES!
i know a kid who isnt too bright and his brakes were squeaking so he sprayed sum wd40 on it. BAD IDEA. brakes didnt stop the car and he got in an accident...
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