Old 04-01-2004, 11:13 PM   #1
1msfyter
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Rear wheel hub questions/help

Im going to install my new ARP rear studs which are longer than stock. Anyone have a picture of where I need to grind the hub? I remember reading someone said its at the 8 o'clock position.
Pictures? Help?
Thanks
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Old 04-01-2004, 11:20 PM   #2
97WS6SCharged
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Why do you need to grind the hub?
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Old 04-01-2004, 11:27 PM   #3
1msfyter
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I read you need to grind the Outside of the hub to make clearance to install the new longer wheel studs.
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Old 04-01-2004, 11:31 PM   #4
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The ARP studs should be the same knurle as the stock ones. You did get PN 100-7708 right?
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Old 04-01-2004, 11:41 PM   #5
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I got those exact one. But they are longer .WILL they go in , even though they are longer? Is there enough room at an angle to get them in?
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Old 04-01-2004, 11:59 PM   #6
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I can't remember if mine went in ok or not. I'll check the car when I get home in the morning and see if I had to grind on anything. I'm pretty sure I didn't though.
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Old 04-02-2004, 12:03 AM   #7
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thanks
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Old 08-28-2005, 10:22 PM   #8
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Re: Rear wheel hub questions/help

i just installed 1 set of these an hour or so ago... I figured I'd chime in and give my experences for those that search (like i did, hehe)

the ARP 100-7708 12mm x 1.5" studs WILL NOT GO IN without some work...

What we did, and this is explained in ultra simple steps cause I'm probably one of the most beginer mech's on here

---------
1) jack up car and take wheel off
2) take off brake caliper and rotor
3) hammer out stock wheel studs
4) un-bolt the brake caliper mounting bracket... Its not possible to take this off without removing the axels (or so it seems) but with it unbolted, its easy to move it around and pivot/angle it
5) we put the new studs in at the 12 o'clock position, with the caliper mounting bracket lined up at the normal 8 o'clock position (hope this makes sense?), but with the bracket unbolted, we were able to angle it in such a way that it was 'slanted' towards the hub. This meant we only had the very small lip of the stud to clear the bracket. We used a hammer and tapped it past the bracket. Not much force was needed at all, and I really doubt any damage was done.

And that was it! Once we had the bracket unbolted, each stud only took around 10-20 seconds to put in. Quite easy really.

as a note, before we unbolted the bracket, we tried every angle to get the new longer studs in, impossible... we tried to grind down the caliper bracket but as its incredibly strong, it wasn't working well, and we decided to try something else, which was unbolt the bracket all together to allow us to manuver it around, which worked perfectly!!

Hope this helps! if anyone has any questions, by all means send me a message!

jeff
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