What do you think my next go fast 'bolt on' should be... keep in mind 'bolt on' to me means not going into the motor. This is a daily driver that has to be well balanced in terms of handling as well as lauching, so no drag radials... or suspension tricks that would hurt the cars handling. I was thinking about FLPs, but am having a hard time accepting the price. I am in Canada so they would cost me 3G's at my door and I am a mechanical retard so I would have to throw in an extra $500 to install.

Any ideas ???

2002 Z28 6 speed

100% Bone stock @ 435 miles
303.7HP 329.8LB/FT
http://solo2.abac.com/avigdor/temp/Z28/dyno.jpg

I added a LM cat back exhaust @ 1000 miles
314HP 334.8LB/FT
http://solo2.abac.com/avigdor/temp/Z28/dyno-lm.jpg

I added a FTRA + lid and K&N filter @ 1450 miles
323.2HP 340.5LB/FT
http://solo2.abac.com/avigdor/temp/Z28/dyno-lm-lid.jpg

I removed the screen from the mass airflow sensor @ 4350 miles
332.9HP 347.9LB/FT
http://solo2.abac.com/avigdor/temp/Z28/dyno%20NOS.jpg

I added a NOS 5177 dry kit and 100HP .064 jet @ 4350 miles
419.7HP 528.2LB/FT
http://solo2.abac.com/avigdor/temp/Z28/dyno%20NOS.jpg

 

Nice car. I would think about getting a new thermistat and maybe a programmer. Mac headers would be nice to go with the Loud Mouth. Im not sure if they made the mods to the 2001 headers yet though, so you may have to do some modifications to get them to fit. theres not too much else to do to go faster. you could get a 12 bolt and up the juice to 125. diablo makes a new programmer, its supposed to be better than the hypertech. theres only so many things you can bolt on, then you have to move inside. All i can say is go big, or go home.

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Scott Parkinson
2001 Sunset Orange Z-28
SLP Loud Mouth Cat-Back Exhaust, LS1 Motorsports Intake Bellow, K&N Filter, MTI Clear Air Lid, Mass Air, 160 Thermistat, Power Programmer, 8.5mm Plug Wires, BMR Sway Bars, BMR STB, Competition Engineering Frame Ties, Lakewood LCA's and Panhard Rod, 125 hp Shot. Runnin low 12's all day.

 

are you still using the stock shifter?

 

Good point! 1st mod was a B&M ripper... now if I could only learn how to do a proper 2-3 shift I would be in good shape, I only made one 2nd to 1st instead of 3rd mis-shift

 

Since your in canada i wouldn't change out the thermastat, not a good idea to replace it in a cold climate. Whats wrong with Drag radials. They are just more agressive tred designs. Are you thinking slicks. Had Nitto 555r drag radials on my 99 GT and they drove just as good as the stock tires but grabbed a hell of alot better, only problem is that they last about 15,000 miles, but they are pretty cheap compared to most tires. Can get a 315/40zr17 for 170 bucks. Personaly if you have the money get gears or LT headers, FLP's. Have 4.10's in mine and i love it. At 70 i am only turning about 1900 rpm's.

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'02 Red Z28, ebony leather, M6, T-tops, Trac. cont., hurst shifter
Borla (the expensive cut-out), Wisperlid W/K&N, FRA, Cags eliminator, Strange 4.10's, G2 Rear Girdle, Valv. Synthetic 10W-30, Redline gear oil, Fat hurst shift ****, Lead foot

Soon to be:
Alpine Screen, Orion xtr 800.4, xtrpro 1000, Kicker 12L7 in a milhouse, Focal polykev K2's, Focal utopia 6" audiom midrange.

 

Depends on how much of a HP gain you feel is worth it. After having 419rw will 10, or 20 more seem like anything. FLPs would be good to get the heat out of the motor. I wouldn't go with more than the 100 shot if you want the motor last. You say you removed the screens, how about home porting it, mine works great no SES codes, maybe with an 02' its a problem though don't know. With the setup you have it seems to me that headers are the best and best for the engine mod.

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99 SS, Dark Metallic Blue, M6
SLP lid, KN, TBB, SLP Y-pipe, SLP loudmouth
ported MAFs, Fernco, Nitto 315 DRs
Currently: 1/4 13.15@114, 0-60 4.85 (w/passenger) Gtech'd