stockscooby

Hey all, new to the site and just wanted to say hi. Looking to learn and ask questions. I have.... well my wife has a 94 Z28 convertible that she was just left from her mother who just passed away. I have been trying to buy this car for the last 5yrs as she stopped driving it. Well long story short it sat for 5yrs, she passed away and now my wife has it. The car has 116,000mi on it and it is in ruff shape from sitting so that's why I need the help. I have it running and driving but little things need some TLC. check engine light comes on when the fans kick on, heat gage does not work, convertible top doesn't go up or down but the motor for it runs, I can hear it and then when you let go of the button I think I hear the hydro fluid gargle? It has some hail damage and a little rust over the rear wheel wells (mom drove it in the winter) Other than that the car runs good and drives ok. Any help or links would be great. I drive a Subaru STi (muscle car guys laugh now) that has 354AWHP and 420lb ft. tq. but.... I'm just a car guy, I like all cars.
Thanks for the help.

zxtce

Welcome aboard, you will find just about anything you need to know here about your z.

TedH

There is all kinds of advice in the tech areas. 119k isn't much in regard to the basic car. My 1994 went 200k plus 400 drag strip passes before I replaced the motor so for basic driving there should be a lot left in it.

Sitting is tough on any vehicle. Anything rubber should probably be considered for replacement, and wiring from age and heat cycles should be carefully inspected. I have found that simply disconnecting, cleaning, and re-connecting connections can make a big difference in a car that has not been used much.

Welcome to the board and sorry to hear about your wife's Mom.

Injuneer

Welcome to CamaroZ28.com!

Actually it's the other way around. The SES light isn't coming on because the fans are kicking on. The fans are turning on because their is a fault codes that turns the fans on to protect the engine, and the fault code is what is turning on the SES light. You need to scan it for codes. We have a link posted to a free download of 1994/95 scanning/data logging software:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...95-lt1-874306/

stockscooby

Thanks for the help. would the SES light cause the car to run rough?

Injuneer

Depends on what code turned on the SES light. Some will never be noticed. Others will cause engine operation to suffer. Important to scan.

Injuneer

I see from your IP address (Uzbekistan Salor Sarkor-telecom) that you are posting from Uzbekistan. Are there many Camaros in Uzbekistan? Do you have a Camaro? If so, we would enjoy seeing pictures of it.

stockscooby

Codes; 32, 29, 63. I replaced a 20 fuse for the air pump and the uses light has gone off for now. Any help out there for the convertible top motor or a wire diagram for the car? Temp gauge not working and I think its a bad wire on the violent temp sensor.

Injuneer

DTC 29 is a common problem, and that's one of the codes that causes the PCM to turn on the SES light. The fuse blows because the pump is rusting up and getting harder to turn. If it continues to blow, disconnect the AIR pump harness connector, then put a new fuse in the circuit. That will prevent the code from setting. The AIR pump only runs for 3 - 4 minutes at startup to help the cat heat up faster, and burn some of the hydrocarbons produced by the cold start enrichment. Unplugging it will not have any effect on the engine.

Good reference for LT1 info, including trouble codes:

4th Gen LT1 F-Body Tech Aids

http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm

DTC 32 indicates the EGR system is not flowing the required amount of exhaust gas when the EGR vacuum solenoid is commanded on. You might want to check to see if someone deleted the EGR. If it's still there, check the vacuum lines, the solenoid (it's not a solenoid electrical problem - there is another code for that), and the EGR valve.

http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg

DTC 63 indicates an open circuit on the Bank 2 (passenger side) heated O2 sensor. The sensor is in the base of the exhaust manifold. Check the harness wiring to make sure it's connected. If the wiring is OK, may need to replace the sensor. A quick check would be to swap the left and right O2 sensors side to side, and see if the code changes to DTC 13 for the left side sensor (faulty sensor) or if the code stays at DTC 63 (faulty wiring).

stockscooby

So $1700 later. I have replace the serpentine(sp?) belt, coolent sending sensor, coolent temp sensor, plugs, wires, opti spark distributor, roter, water pump, air filter, thermostat and I think thats it. Car runs good and all ses lights are off. Car still needs some TLC for the body and the underside is all rusty. What should I look into replacing next? I'm not sure I want to turn this into a money pit but I do want it to last. I still can't get the convertable top to work properly. I hear the motor running when pushing the button and the top moves a little but will not go down or up on its own. Any help would be great. I google searched it and couldn't find anything for it.

Injuneer

Glad to hear you got it running well again.

The best thing to do at this point would be to put together a summary of what you have done, and any remaining problems, and post it on the appropriate technical forum. Most everything can be covered on "LT1 Based Engine Tech", "General 67-02 F-Body Tech", or the specialty forums in "67-02 Specific Technical Discussion".

You will get a lot more traffic on those forums, rather than continuing here on "New Member Intro".

Also a good idea to set up a "Signature", so that the basic info about your car is appended to each of your posts. That info helps us help you.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...nature-879835/