Looking at a 95 Z28 for first Camaro
01-26-2016, 07:32 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: NY
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Looking at a 95 Z28 for first Camaro
Hello all, new here and I'm dead set on getting a z28 soon, I'm going to look at a 95 Z28 tomorrow and I'm wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of what to be looking for such as common problems, problem areas and the like, hopefully all goes well I'm extremely excited!!
01-26-2016, 10:09 AM
#2
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
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Re: Looking at a 95 Z28 for first Camaro
If possible, scan it for codes. Hard to do on a 95 because it has an OBD-1 PCM and a 16-pin OBD-2 style ALDL connector. You need an older GM OBD-1 scanner with a couple of jumper wires to pull codes. Shorting the ALDL connector to flash the codes won't work on anything after 1993.
These engine will go 200,000 miles if well cared for. Weak point is the "Optispark" distributor, with its integral optical cam position sensor. Located below the water pump, can be damaged by leaks and it's a very expensive part (~$400 for AC Delco or Delphi - the only recommended replacements). Ask if the Opti has been replaced, and with what brand.
Look for oil leak at the rear of the block/intake manifold, passenger side. Ditto on the front of the engine at the Opti, (gear driven) water pump and crank seal. The water pump drive shaft seal in the timing cover is difficult to install.
Watch for engine overheating. The LT1 has a unique "reverse flow" coolant system, and needs to be carefully purged of air to cool effectively. Middle of the gauge (~210-degF) is normal.
Oil pressure - I'd look for at least 20psi at idle, and 10psi/1,000 RPM above idle.
Inspect the throttle body bores and the nearby inside of the intake manifold for funky oil/carbon buildup. That can be the sign of bad rings, causing crankcase pressure, reversing air flow in the line from the passenger side valve cover to the throttle body, blowing oil into the throttle body.
At 20+ years old, it's normal for vacuum lines to be cracked and leaking.
Ask about age of plugs and wires. Can be a bit difficult to replace.
If original, shocks and suspension bushings can be worn, needing replacement.
If it's a "snow belt" car, check for severe rust at the sub frames, suspension attachment points and floor pans.
Engine should start quickly at turn of the key. Extended cranking can point to a faulty fuel pressure regulator, leaving injectors, or faulty check valve in the fuel pump.
Pull the carpet up on the package shelf behind the rear seat. It isn't unusual to cut a "hatch" to access the fuel pump. Nothing wrong with that, but the workmanship should be neat and the cover effectively sealed to the body sheet metal.
These engine will go 200,000 miles if well cared for. Weak point is the "Optispark" distributor, with its integral optical cam position sensor. Located below the water pump, can be damaged by leaks and it's a very expensive part (~$400 for AC Delco or Delphi - the only recommended replacements). Ask if the Opti has been replaced, and with what brand.
Look for oil leak at the rear of the block/intake manifold, passenger side. Ditto on the front of the engine at the Opti, (gear driven) water pump and crank seal. The water pump drive shaft seal in the timing cover is difficult to install.
Watch for engine overheating. The LT1 has a unique "reverse flow" coolant system, and needs to be carefully purged of air to cool effectively. Middle of the gauge (~210-degF) is normal.
Oil pressure - I'd look for at least 20psi at idle, and 10psi/1,000 RPM above idle.
Inspect the throttle body bores and the nearby inside of the intake manifold for funky oil/carbon buildup. That can be the sign of bad rings, causing crankcase pressure, reversing air flow in the line from the passenger side valve cover to the throttle body, blowing oil into the throttle body.
At 20+ years old, it's normal for vacuum lines to be cracked and leaking.
Ask about age of plugs and wires. Can be a bit difficult to replace.
If original, shocks and suspension bushings can be worn, needing replacement.
If it's a "snow belt" car, check for severe rust at the sub frames, suspension attachment points and floor pans.
Engine should start quickly at turn of the key. Extended cranking can point to a faulty fuel pressure regulator, leaving injectors, or faulty check valve in the fuel pump.
Pull the carpet up on the package shelf behind the rear seat. It isn't unusual to cut a "hatch" to access the fuel pump. Nothing wrong with that, but the workmanship should be neat and the cover effectively sealed to the body sheet metal.
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