lbrowne

Going to start the install of the CSI tomorrow night as my pump arrived the weekend. got 2 waterpump gaskets on the way.

heres my question, wiring the thing. I think I want to wire it like others have done, by tapping it into the ignition so it comes on when the car is on. How do I do this?

When it comes to electrical I'm a bit lost but I can follow instructions. Meaning if you tell me to wire it to the ignition I won't know where to start...

Thanks,

Leo

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96 Black Trans Am M6
K&N FIPK, Hypertech 160 Thermostat, !TB Bypass, Flowtech 3" CutOut, LT4 KM, B&M Ripper Shifter, TPIS STB, BMR Relocation Brackets, Lakewood Boxed LCAs

http://members.shaw.ca/leobrowne

teke184

i got lots of good responses on my last thread:
http://web.camaross.com/bb/Forum1/HTML/106840.html

lbrowne

thanks for the reply, but isn't there a way to just straight wire it to the ignition fuse or something, so it comes on with the car automatically?

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96 Black Trans Am M6
K&N FIPK, Hypertech 160 Thermostat, !TB Bypass, Flowtech 3" CutOut, LT4 KM, B&M Ripper Shifter, TPIS STB, BMR Relocation Brackets, Lakewood Boxed LCAs

http://members.shaw.ca/leobrowne

nuke61

Yes, wire it to the A/C-Cruise fuse in the engine bay fuse box. That's how I have mine wired, and it allows the pump to run when the key is in the "ON" position. In conjunction with my fan switch, it allows running the fans and waterpump at the drag strip waiting line.

See my sig, then click on "Meziere Electrical"

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Hear LT1 cam WAVs, DIY head porting: members.***.net/gmarengo

'95, !CAGS, CAI, ForceII, Hooker Shorties, 14.2@103

Buttercup

You need a relay, you just can't pull all those amps from a regular ignition "hot" wire.

What I did might not be right or wrong, hell I don't even have it running yet so I can't say it works but just to throw it out here's what I did. Since I'm not running my AIR system anymore I decided to use the existing wiring that's already in place. I cut the connector off of the AIR pump and soldered it to the CSI pump's wiring, plugged the waterpump in to the AIR pump's connector, replaced 20 amp AIR pump fuse with 15 amp for the CSI, spliced the ground for the AIR pump relay to the ground for the fuel pump relay at the PCM. Now whenever the fuel pump relay is enabled it should also ground the AIR pump relay which is now the electric waterpump. I thought this was the cleanest, easiest, cheapest, most reliable way to power this bad boy up.

Thoughts anyone? I'll know how well it works soon enough, hopefully

lbrowne

soooo what you're saying is, literally just tap my ground wire into the ground thats right there on that metal panel... then run my power wire right to the fuse box and tap it into the fuse socket that powers my ignition, as in, lift the fuse, and push it down with the wire in place...

that right?

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96 Black Trans Am M6
K&N FIPK, Hypertech 160 Thermostat, !TB Bypass, Flowtech 3" CutOut, LT4 KM, B&M Ripper Shifter, TPIS STB, BMR Relocation Brackets, Lakewood Boxed LCAs

http://members.shaw.ca/leobrowne

nuke61

No, do NOT do that -- if I remember correctly, the motor draws about 8 amps, which is too much to be powered from an existing circuit.

You need to run a relay to create a new circuit. Take a look at my site and the schematic I whipped up. If it doesn't make any sense to you, I suggest that you get someone to do the work.

Edit: Some more details... buy an automotive relay at an autoparts store, RadioShack, etc. They are often called "Fog lamp" relays.

Run the ground wire of the pump to a chassis ground -- IOW, bolt it to any metal part.

Wire the relay as shown here: http://members.***.net/gmarengo/Meziere/Meziere.htm


[This message has been edited by nuke61 (edited July 22, 2002).]

lbrowne

actually your schematic helped alot. you basically buy the fuse, run the wires as you indicated and the power comes from the fuse box which you tap inot like this...

http://ken.lowrance.com/Projects/CSIWaterPump/Images/ElectricalHookup/RelayActivate Wire.jpg

right?

so its a matter of getting a Fog Light relay from Crappy Tire, and then matching up the wires as you said...

I'm pretty sure I can do this. At first when I was looking at you schematic I was thinking the relay was a relay in the fuse box already and that you were somehow using that....thats how i got confused


thanks!

leo

EDIT: i see you say run the 30+ red to battery +....what wire did you tap for it? or did you go right to the terminal....
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96 Black Trans Am M6
K&N FIPK, Hypertech 160 Thermostat, !TB Bypass, Flowtech 3" CutOut, LT4 KM, B&M Ripper Shifter, TPIS STB, BMR Relocation Brackets, Lakewood Boxed LCAs

http://members.shaw.ca/leobrowne

[This message has been edited by lbrowne (edited July 23, 2002).]

lbrowne

TTT

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96 Black Trans Am M6
K&N FIPK, Hypertech 160 Thermostat, !TB Bypass, Flowtech 3" CutOut, LT4 KM, B&M Ripper Shifter, TPIS STB, BMR Relocation Brackets, Lakewood Boxed LCAs

http://members.shaw.ca/leobrowne

nuke61

No, I used the red terminal block that's near the battery, up on the fender.


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Hear LT1 cam WAVs, DIY head porting: members.***.net/gmarengo

'95, !CAGS, CAI, ForceII, Hooker Shorties, 14.2@103

lbrowne

thats where i went as well....

now i noticed a couple of times when i workin around the battery you could the electrical system engage and click and stuff.

there was a couple of times when i went to start her and she would die the second i turned the key to the accessories position.

i would have to turn off the key, take it out, jostle my connections, try my remote factory alarm thing a couple of times till it responded and then i could try starting her again.

i'll be disconnecting the waterpump power tonight to see what happens..

thanks guys,

leo

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96 Black Trans Am M6
K&N FIPK, Hypertech 160 Thermostat, !TB Bypass, Flowtech 3" CutOut, LT4 KM, B&M Ripper Shifter, TPIS STB, BMR Relocation Brackets, Lakewood Boxed LCAs

http://members.shaw.ca/leobrowne

stevil

Well? What happened? I'm doing this install right now, and this idea sounds too perfect.

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Steve · FormulaV8.com · 1994 Formula · A4 · 3.23
13.45 @ 102.5 MPH w/ 1.9 60' | 267 rwhp | 307 tq/lbs | 3535 lbs
"I know for a fact he is NOT an Easter bunny"

Dave K

I bought a little fuse/relay block from an automotive store, it has 3 fuses and 2 relays on it. I mounted it in the glove compartment. I ran all power from as close to the battery as I could get (the ground lug on the fender and the red box on the fender). One ground line (large gauge) went straight to the WP... the other (small gauge) went to the glove box. The large gauge red went accross a fuse then through one set of relay contacts, then back to the WP. The small gauge ground went through the fuse block (with a 1A fuse or so in there, accross the relay coil, and then to the cars fuse block (AC/cruise). For complete safety make sure you use the protected side of the fuse in the cars fuse box.

This is a safe and reliable configuration, I would not suggest utilizing existing car wiring unless you verify that all the internal wiring is large enough to handle the current, Electric WP's are pigs.

Install with some of that black protective split tubing and the whole thing looks thoroughly professional (except where I've got the relay wire snaked under the dash... but you can't see that )

[This message has been edited by Dave K (edited August 16, 2002).]

Buttercup

I had to change this around a little bit. Unlike most relays which are grounded through the PCM, the fuel pump relay is fed voltage from the PCM. So I spliced the AIR wire to the fuel pump relay at the PCM, make sure to unplug the AIR pin from the PCM. I then had to run one of the hot wires from the AIR relay to a new ground. Replace the 20amp AIR fuse with a 15amp for the CSI. At this point the CSI will turn whenever the fuel pump is on.

If you stop now you will also get a DTC, unless you can reprogram the PCM. You can run a wire, with resistor, from the CSI relay back to the PCM. Plug this wire in where the AIR pump wire used to be. This last step will eliminate the SES light and will also light up the SES if the fuse for the CSI ever blows

I'd imagine this sounds confusing This is all pretty simple if you're looking at the wiring schematic. I can give you the pin numbers etc. if you have a '94-'95.

stevil

Yeah, you said ground them together, but I looked at the wiring schematics in my Haynes and the grounds wouldn't be close... but the signal wires from the PCM were. I figured I'd splice the brown wire (AIR) going into the PCM into the dark green/white (FuelPump) going into the PCM.

I didn't think about pulling out the AIR pin.



I already have my AIR pump connector sitting here, I'm guessing to use red and black... the orange wire, the 3rd one, its also hot, right? Is that the wire you were talking about? Just ground it? Or tape it off?

Not really confusing, just want to make sure what to do.

Thanks!