16Sammy61

The new opti is installed on my car, and the water pump was on its way back in until i realized im missing something. Can someone get me bolt sizes for sll 6 water pump bolts? I know theres 2 shorter and 4 longer. I have a stud type that come from it, not sure what its there for so ill just use a plain bolt instead.

now the strange part is i need a way to push my crank hub back on. A friend was helping me remove the pulley, when something came across and i had to leave. He said he could get it while i was gone so i trusted him. He accidently used what i call the "crows foot" puller and started to pull the hub off, simply because the bolts were threaded all the way through the hub as well as the pulley. No harm done, he didnt know to use thr claw type. I plan to use a longer version of the bolt from the hub, as well as various washers that shrink in size to help pull it back, then reinstall original short bolt. Will this work? I saw something about using threaded rod, but my local store doesnt carry the correct theead size to fit the hub.

Injuneer

The stud is used to bolt down both the water pump and the AIR pump bracket.

Use of a long Grade 8 threaded rod is strongly recommended. Using the stock bolt, or anything shorter than full depth may rip the threads out of the crank.

shoebox

The water pump takes two 2" bolts and four 4" bolts.

4th Gen LT1 F-body, Fastener Torque and Spec Matrix

16Sammy61

The AIR is deleted, so i can just replace it with a regular bolt correct? All the threaded rod at the local hardware store didnt have the same threads as the hub bolt. Know of any online stores i could find the right size, and also in small length? I am workin inside the car, but have a little extra room because the radiator is out. Ill shop around today to see what i can find.

Injuneer

Per Shoebox's fastener guide, you are looking for 7/16"-20 threaded rod, correct? You need it long enough to bottom out in the crank snout, and leave you enough thread beyond the crank hub to get the washers and a nut on. Grade 8 means it won't snap off and leave you in a bigger mess.

16Sammy61

On my way out of town tomorrow to grab the rod. Found the correct size (7/16-20) and it comes in 3 ft lengths for about $6.05, which i will cut it as necessary.

shoebox

Make sure it is grade 8 or better, otherwise it won't hold up.

16Sammy61

Well after a very eventful day i have the rod. When you tell a guy straight to his faceyou want 7/16-20 and he gives you 7/16-14 its kind of annoying. And what it makes it worse is not realizing it until you get home from an hour drive away. But in the end i have my 7-16-20 grade 8 rod and will start on the crank hub tomorrow.

Any ideas as what to cut it down to from 4ft? I have the radiator and fans out, so from there to the hub is how much room im working with. How deep is the hub actually? I was thinking i should cut it somewhere around 12-20 inches.

Injuneer

Measure.

Measure the full depth of the hole in the crank. Measure the thickness of the hub (if it's all the way off). Figure the room you need for a washer or two and the nut, give yourself a couple inches extra for room to work. Add those together and cut.

16Sammy61

Everything installed and the car runs almost perfect. At least a lot better since i've had it. It still bounces up and down between 800-1000 rpms at idle. It also stumbles awfully if you rev to about 2-3000, it then drops to about 500 and almost cuts out before it wakes itself up. Still some things to work out, then she'll be road worthy for me or anyone else. Can't decide what to do with it because i desperately want a 6-speed!

16Sammy61

So, i have had the car running every day now to keep it in check. Everything has been alright, slight miss at idle but i believe the spark plugs are almost turned to dust. They are next on the list.

Now my temp gauge is reading max temp all the time, but on Scan94/95 it only really reached around 140 which shouldnt ever appear on the guage. I had a SES light and s check gauges light come on all of a sudden. It was DTC 48 even though i had just replaced the MAF connector. Once i wiggled the maf wires the SES light and check gauges went off, however my temp gauge still reads max. So is my gauge just done for?

Note: Sensor in water pump is brand new, it was replaced when water pump was out.

Injuneer

Max temp reading = minimum resistance in the circuit. That would indicate a short between the single wire to the gauge and a ground, or the sensor is shorted internally. Use Shoebox's guide:

4th Gen LT1 F-body Tech Articles

Make sure the sensor resistance is correct, and that you have 12V between the single wire and a ground.