slocody

heres the deal....im in the process of assembling all the parts for doing my heads and 230/236 cam in the next couple weeks. oddly, i find my budget rapidly being depleted . my question....should i upgrade to 4.10's from my 3.42? or should i upgrade my front brakes to a baer kit, and save up for a 12bolt in a couple months? my gears are already on their way out (again!! ), and adding like 100 rwhp isnt gonna help anything. so what would you do if you could only afford one or the other? just looking for opinions. Thanks in advance!!

cody

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black 97 TA WS.6 M6
--slp shorties--K&N--!CAGS--MAF !screen--edelbrock sfc & 3-pt stb--Hurst Shifter w/Lou's short stick--tb bypass--blackouts (turnsignal, side markers, 3rd brakelight)--cutout (!cap)--heavy on stereo mods. all just to carry my fat *** to work.
-t-top conversion!!

[This message has been edited by slocody (edited September 06, 2002).]

Mikey97Z

If you wanna do ANY racing on slicks or DRs, save for the 12 Bolt, with your choice of gears. I have the 12 Bolt, and heads and 230/236 cam are goin in next month!

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1997 Z28 M6 === 13.30@106.35 [1.94] === FLP Lontubes, GMMG Chambered Exhaust, Strange 12-Bolt, 3.73:1 Gears, Spec Stage II Clutch, Pro 5.0, MSD 6AL, OBD1 PCM, LT4 KM, LT1 Edit, !AIR, !EGR, 160* Stat, Moroso CAI, BMR TA, SLP STB, BMR SFC, GMS LCA, 1LE DS, BFG DR, 10" Sub, 303 RWHP.
"If everything's under control, you're going too slow" - Mario Andretti

DjArcadian

If you're adding 100 HP you should do your gears now. Those extra Hp's are sure to blow your rearend.

Xscream

I don't know what you plan on doing with the car but if you are not drag racing it you should be fine with your 10 bolt. I currently run high 300's RW (still tuning on new motor) and haven't had any rear end problems yet. I do have a stud girtle and would very much suggest one. If you plan on tracking the car - do brakes. The baer are okay but they will kill you in the long run. For the money I would go with the Pro Speed Motor Sports kit. Uses brembo componets but is more than half the price. I started running these things on my car and out preform the Baer and Willwoods and the cost of consumables is much, much less. Call mike up over at Pro Speed and tell him Josh sent you. He is a great guy and knows a ton about brakes.

Injuneer

I bought the Baer "Track Kit" about 4 years ago, and never installed the fronts. I'm glad now that I didn't. You can't run 15" wheels on the front with the 13" Baer rotors.

You need to decide what the main "purpose" of your car is. If its "straight line" you don't need to upgrade the brakes, unless it is for the purpose of reducing weight... e.g. Mark Williams drag brakes. If you want to road race or Auto-X, I would assume the stock brakes need an upgrade.

I find my stock brakes have no problem pulling the car down reliably from 130mph trap speeds.... .

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Fred
94 Formula A3+1: 381/TH400+OD/N2O

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11.513@115.59 on motor; 11.162@127.67, 1.643 60' on a 125-shot. Going with a 275-shot this year

slocody

cool, thanks guys! gears it is.....

cody

also, is there a web site for pro speed? ive never heard of them before....

[This message has been edited by slocody (edited September 07, 2002).]

Black@sNight

<<<I find my stock brakes have no problem pulling the car down reliably from 130mph trap speeds.... >>>

DUDE...My rotors have MAJOR runout where it feels unsafe to drive, AFTER a one turn already, and I only have 7k miles on a 2002!!!

I nEED Baers!!!

95z28 -quicksilver

With heads cam and 4.10's you will most likely be having to shift into fifth gear before the 1/4 mark. I would go with a 12 bolt and 3.73's with that much power. I wish i would have waited for a 12 bolt. I went with 4.10's and now i cant run DR's or slicks until i get one.


Chris