PWR SHFT

That is what I always thought. Moving the IAT closer to the air filter is basically a trick to make the IAT read cooler temperatures but where it is stock is more accurate. If you don't like the results of the reading then you tune the computer to react the way you want it to. Personally I have always felt that stock programming was too sensitive to the IAT reading. Hence why people have relocated it or used the resister to take it out of the equation.

My $.02 worth, can I get change?

Injuneer

The stock location causes massive heat soak of the sensor, and results in false high IAT readings. I've seen readings of 145*F for IAT on hot days. Sticking a thermocouple in the inlet duct yielded significantly lower actual air temps in front of the throttle body. The heat soak and the resulting high indicated IAT appeared to cause the engine to idle rougher and the engine to felt sluggish. There appears to be a table that adjusts timing based on IAT, but I don't know if anyone has found that table. Remember that the IAT is not used for fueling in a MAF setup. The inlet air temp required for the MAF sensor to calculate the mass air flow is measured internal to the MAF.

After relocating the IAT to the CAI filter, the rough idle and sluggish engine feel disappeared.

PWR SHFT

Well that makes more sense. If the heat soak is causing the IAT to read incorrectly then relocation is a good idea. That was a piece of info that I did not have. Thanks again, Fred!

As far as the IAT resister mod, all that is doing is keeping the Computer from pulling timing out the hotter the air gets. I wouldn't drive around the street like this for obvious reasons but it may be a good mod for the track when you are iceing down the intake. This way you get the full benefit of the cooler intake charge from the ice without worrying about a false reading from the IAT.

bombebomb

Interesting, I wonder if that is why my car would sometimes (rare) feel like it was idling odd and sounded different. It was on hot days to I think.

Stl94LT1

I'm pretty sure I have an IAT extension harness with plugs on both ends, that I tried on my Y-body. If the connections are the same and I can find it, you can have it if you would like?

MikeGyver

So umm.... throttle body engine coolant bypass mod (free).
Stop the heat soak issue at the source. My throttle body ran so hot I couldn't touch it, now it's cold to the touch.

Injuneer

The resistor mod was dyno tested (I'd guess this goes back about 10 years ago, if my memory is still any good) several people from the Georgia F-Body group. It lost HP in some cases, and gained HP in none.

It makes sense to pull timing if the inlet air temp is elevated - I use that feature available in my aftermarket ECU. Hotter air increases the chances of detonation. But its the "false" hot air info that screws things up.

I doubt much heat from the throttle body travels from the TB to the IAT sensor. The sensor is heated by the hot air rising off the back of the radiator. The throttle body bypass is a good idea because it reduces heat transfer to the manifold and to the incoming air. The rubber elbow would not be a good conductor though.

IFLYAZ

Yea, this is exactly what I want to cure. Going into summer I was dreading the return of this condition.

94zgreenmachine

There is even a harness ready made to just plug in and comes with the sensor and a grommet for the sensor when you redrill for the new location. Everyone will chime in and say you don't need it, but just showing you there is an option out there. I have this on mine.
http://www.jetchip.com/Shop/shopdisp...ppp=10&catID=1
Part #: 61630

Fatdog2

I hope I'm in the right forum.But what gauge wire should I use for the IAC relocation and where and how do I install the IAC in the K&N performance intake system?Where to install the sensor itself.?I can get a Iat relocation kit from Ricks auto but for $50.00,I just can't see this.Thanks in advance for any suggestions.P.S. I can find a plug around here to plug up the elbow.Many thanks as always.Sorry to bring up old posts but you've got this nailed.My02.

96 Z 28

I simply extended mine with 16 Gauge wire - just cut the wires and solder in an extension....

I have my sensor set inside my CAI Filter - has worked well with a PCMforLess.com tune for 10+ years.

I too had rough idle/sluggish feel in hotter summer temps - relocation solved the issue.

EDIT: For a plug for the Elbow - Check out shampoo bottles - the top of one (Pert IIRC) is a perfect fit - just use a little silicon to seal it in place.

Fatdog2

Great info.Many thanks.

Injuneer

When I still had my CAI, I drilled a hole in the metal cap on the K&N oval filter, inserted a grommet, and pushed the IAT sensor into the grommet. Start by taking the sensor at an auto parts store, find a grommet that fits snug over the sensor, drill a hole in the metal filter cap to correctly hold the grommet.

Fatdog2

God.So great idea.Thanks for the grommet idea.I'm suppose to be semi retired but you wouldn't know it.I'm so darn busy know with working part time and fixing up this house,dealing with relatives,making holiday plans,ect.ect.ect.Tests at hospitals for minuscule and non life threatening stuff,that I have trouble focusing on stuff like this(hobby).Where is all that free time we heard about after retiring?Ha.Anyway thanks for the heads up.Will get a grommet tomorrow.And some wire.Many thanks and sorry for the vent.

Injuneer

Tell me about it.... my Formula has been sitting in the garage for years. I worked 9 years past my SS retirement age, and retired at the end of 2015. The past year has been exactly what you describe.... fix things around the house, clean up the yard, endless doctor visits and tests, visiting a son and a grand daughter in other states, etc. I was meaning to get the Formula back on the road, specially since NJ no longer requires any inspections at all for 1995 and older. But no progress at all. Guess it has to wait until Spring.