SA68SS

I had a long trip in my new 93 with some electrical problems affecting the engine - different post. But there are a bunch of things that don't work properly on this car and if I can I will fix them all.
Here goes for a few-

Window motors - Both windows suffer from the weak and intermittent function, and assumed overheating due to low voltage.
I have bought two new electric motors and will do the replacement when I have the AutoTrix wiring kit. I note the kit is only for the passenger window, and no drivers side kit is offered. Why is this? Should I also hotwire the driver's window?

Cooler/heater blower control - I recharged the A/C system with R134a and when on, I can hear the A/C cycling, and there is good cooling (ice melt is obvious after driving and then stopping, under the evaporator)
I note the AC is 'on' even when 'fresh air vent' is selected.
Most important is that the blower fan is working, but the flaps inside the system are not opening. The result is I have cool air dribbling out at the vents outlets, but not blowing out.
Is there any common fixes or tip to access and restore the flap function?
Is this a major repair operation?

I have some other issue of a more minor nature, but would like to get started on the two items above.

Any advice much appreciated.

Injuneer

The HVAC valves are controlled by a vacuum line from the engine. The line has a check valve in it, that often breaks. Or the vacuum line may be cracked or broken.

Shoebox has the info, as usual:

http://shbox.com/1/hvac_vacuum.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/vac_check_valve.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/vacuum_tank.jpg

GaryDoug explains why the passenger side needs the kit, in post #3 in this recent thread:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/gen...x-95-z-879347/

JakeRobb

But there is a driver side kit.

AutoTrix :: Driver Window Express Down Kit

SA68SS

Thanks Jake,
I sent off a email to Autotrix and got a nice reply from Jed Parmenter. He explained the voltage drain from the drivers side switch to the passenger side switch, which affects both windows, more so when both windows are operated simultaneously.
The kit for the Express Down on the drivers side is an alternative to the GM power module, which is quite expensive to fix. The Passenger side Express Down is an option that is not factory offered, so I guess is an upgrade.
The Express Down kits are not a fix to the voltage problems, according to Jed.

What I will do is install the passenger side wiring fix, and then test the windows on both doors. If the motors are weak, I will go ahead and change them both out. if both motors run strong, I will leave them alone.

thanks for the reply.

SA68SS

I changed out the vacuum check valve and tested each of the three vacuum lines, by blowing and sucking. did not detect any leaks and the old check valve seemed to be in good working order too.
I fired up the engine and tried the Ac and fan controls. Got a big improvement, you can really tell it is blowing now.
So next is a careful check of the vacuum line to the vacuum tank. Other posts and shoebox indicate it may be worn near the battery.

But after messing with the ICM, new heat sink compound and reassembling the coil and connections, and battery, it was nice to have the car fire up, running and feel cool air blowing.

Thanks to all who posted, much appreciated. Nice forum.