raroz28

I have NSA rockers and poly locks. I do 1/2 turn.

Injuneer

That would indicate leaking injectors, or possibly a leaking fuel pressure regulator. Pushing the throttle does not affect fuel flow or the injectors, only the air flow. It's not like the accel pump on a carb.

Very easy to check for leaking injectors. First check the fuel pressure. Let the pump prime and shut off. Should prime to at least 40psi. After the pump shuts off, the fuel pressure should drop very slowly. If the pressure drops rapidly, could be leaking injectors, leaking fuel pressure regulator or leaking check valve in the fuel pump.

If pressure drops, first check the vacuum compensation line on the fuel pressure regulator for wet fuel. If that's dry, unbolt the fuel rails and pull them up, keeping the injectors in the rail. Turn the key to "RUN" (not "START") to pressure the fuel system - look for drips from the injectors.

Just to avoid engine damage, check the oil for fuel dilution - gasoline smell, or thin consistency/low oil pressure.

Noenav

I pmed you

Injuneer

In response to your PM - Follow the instructions in post #17.

When you start the engine, will it take a long time to start without opening the blades? If so, try this - before turning the key,put the accel pedal on the floor and hold it there. Continue to hold it while you turn the key to "START", and hold it there until the engine starts. Did is start quicker? If so you have confirmed it is flooded. Holding the throttle wide open does affect the fuel flow to the engine. It puts the PCM in "clear flood" mode, and reduces fuel flow through the injectors.

Check the oil for a heavy gasoline smell. That would indicate the problems stated in post #17. There's so much fuel passing the injectors or the regulator, or it's running so rich because of a problem with the O2 sensors or another sensor, that the fuel is starting to fill the cylinders, running past the rings, and diluting the oil. This can rapidly damage rings and cylinder walls, along with bearings.

The hose from the throttle body to the passenger valve cover is supposed to supply vent it to the valve cover, that the vacuum from the PCV valve pulls through the crankcase to sweep out harmful combustion blowby products. If you are overloading the crankcase/oil with gasoline, it's possible that the vapor is beyond the capability of the PCV valve to remove, and it's starting to build pressure and blow diluted oil out the grommet for the plastic elbow on the valve cover.

Best advice I can give you is - follow what I told you in post #17, and stop driving it before you do serious damage to the engine.

bw_hunter

The common valve setup is preload...usually 1/2 to 3/4 turn of the rocker nut past zero lash

Noenav

Yes the engine did start quicker. I will check the injectors and regulator and soon as I can thanks! I'll keep yall updated

raroz28

Did you ever figure it out?

Noenav

I changed the the throttle body back to the stock one and it idle good but now the problem is something with heating. I took the car around the block for some testing and it ran fine then once it got hot or running tempeture the car started sputtering and when I pulled up to a stop it wanted to die but I kept it on with the throttle once I got home and parked it the car shut off and didn't want to fire up until it cooled down again. Any ideas guys?

Noenav

I also forgot to mention that none of my injectors were leaking and the pump seems to prime everytime I put the key in the on position. I haven't checked fuel pressure will do that tomorrow

Injuneer

What happened when you turned the key to "start"? Did the starter engage, did it crank the engine normally, did the engine sputter like it was trying to start? Did you try with the accel pedal on the floor?

If there were no leaking injectors, no leaking FPR, could indicate a problem with the coolant temp sensor in the water pump housing.

Noenav

the engine cranked normally but it did not fire up even with the throttle all the way down but it did sputter at time but no ignition until cooled down. could it also be the icm?

Injuneer

Heat soak can disable the ICM. It can also affect the optical module in the Optispark distributor. Or both of them could just fail. They will set codes if they do.

Noenav

What codes would they set off

Noenav

Wait what is heat soak?

Injuneer

The part overheats due to internal heat, and external heat, like the engine compartment heat, heat from the head it's bolted to, etc..

I was going to post the specific codes, but I notice (or at least I can't find) the year of your car. You need to add a "Signature" so we can help you. I think I've suggested this before.