grabbem88

After fixing everything I'm not sure if I killed o2's from the lean issue (fuel pump) to the rich issue (fuel pump relay/opti)??

Codes after driving 100 mile were

13
28...not sure why cause I thought this was cooling fans for 93's?? If so well I have mine 100# on
32 first time after having LT's for 2yrs

13 is what bothers me and they were working Sunday

I made extensions ...soldered and shrink tubed and loomed

There isn't a pig tail that I can't see is there? Cause I did the extensions under the car..

Anyways I was curious what I have to do to run heated o2's??

Thanks in advance

Art

shoebox

If you have fan wired on, then that is probably why you are getting a fan code.

You should triple check your work for the code 13.

This is a wiring diagram to convert to heated O2s.

Injuneer

DTC 13 sets when The PCM sees the O2 sensor reading stuck between 350-550mV for 60 seconds. It won't set the code until the ECM is supposed to go into closed loop, and the O2 sensor is still not moving. Could be a cold sensor, could be an open circuit. When the code sets, it prevents the ECM from going into closed loop.

DTC 28 is for Quad Driver #3, and in addition to the fan relays, it also covers the A/C relay. But as Rob points out, one of the problems of wiring the fans to run all the time, or with a switch is getting this code. The ECM checks the voltage on the circuit when the fans are supposed to be off, and when they are supposed to be on. If they are running when they are supposed to be off (based on ECM temp settings), code sets.

DTC 32 for EGR sets when the ECM cycles the EGR valve, and doesn't see the expected change in manifold absolute pressure (MAP). The ECM also monitors the left side short term fuel trim, and if it is at a fixed value (as in open loop) the code may set. Is your EGR system still functional?

grabbem88

Also I'm using Bosch are these problematic enough to last 3-6 months on long tubes

And this car when I was trying to figure the rich issue burned our eyes so bad even inside car and while sitting between starts..

Plugs were black as coal

Everything ignition wise is 100% replaced

The left side is under warranty so ill swap it but everytime I use that scan program they both sit at .5** range. Until I rev it or hold at 1500-2000 rpms

Also code 13 doesn't mean the o2 is bad on a 93 right? It is an actual circuit failure?

shoebox

13 could be the circuit to the O2 or in the sensor and harness, itself (since it is part of the circuit). There would be no way to tell without some isolation testing.

grabbem88

Egr is plugged in but all the smog pump and plumbing has been removed ever since headers were put on that code never came on till today yes the ses light comes on then off a few minutes later

28 I just wanted to make sure I was right cause manual (Haynes) has it listed as transmission out of range...

13 is my concern this code has plagued me for years even before headers but it has been getting worse I think ... 240k. I guess I shouldn't gripe too much and I'm sure my valves are leaking or it needs an adjustment?? Doubtful but Ill ask anyways

Injuneer

Do NOT trust Haynes for codes. Use Rob's code list, specifically for the LT1, with the 93 code exceptions in the right hand column. Remember, 93 is different from all other LT1 years in many ways. DTC 28 is for the trans range, but only 94 and up.

http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm

The 93 combines the plumbing for the AIR system with the plumbing for the EGR. Another case where 93 is different than all other LT1 years. If you removed the AIR piping, you probably removed the EGR piping. DTC 32 is basically related to actual exhaust flow through the EGR valve. There is another code (DTC 26) for the EGR solenoid. And as noted in the earlier post, a static reading on the left (Bank 1) O2 sensor can cause the EGR code to set.

If the O2 sensor voltage starts to move as you increase engine load/RPM, the sensor is working, and it would seem to me it's a problem with it not staying hot enough at low RPM/low engine load.

grabbem88

Worst luck ever... Went to check everything out and my d/s o2 was broke at the wire base among the bangs and bumps.

The guy at orielly store didn't want to exchange it cause its not a part defect..

Thank you missourah for these wonderful roads!

grabbem88

Not it keep setting code 13

I pulled that wire all the way out checked it for breaks put new wire in it and made sure pigtail wasnt broke I even made it a tad tighter

Still sets but I shut car off and back on and drive it never comes back on

So I'm thinking the slow switching o2's and long tube headers is my problem

The car took 480 seconds to finally switch to closed loop and finally trimming the fuel

Now I googled and saw a guy who used to sell o2 harness' but I don't have a pig tail plug and play I seen in his pics

Am missing something here

Injuneer

Gotta type more carefully.

"Keeps setting" and "never comes back on" would appear to contradict each other, if both are referring to DTC 13.

DTC 13 "open circuit" can be an open circuit in the sensor itself = sensing element burned out. Not just for a problem with the wiring harness. Could also be a bad ground connection, which in your case is the threads of the sensor making a good ground to the threads on the header bung. Did you use "conductive" anti-seize on the sensors when installed?

And, the sensor acts like an open circuit if it isn't heated to at least 600*F.

If you have a volt meter with at least 10 megohm impedance, you can measure the voltage from the tip of the single harness wire (red lead) to the header (black lead). Should see something in the range of 320 mV - 500 mV. That would confirm the continuity of the harness wire and the header being grounded.

Do you mean you have no harness connector that couples the harness to the O2 sensor, and it is wired directly?

grabbem88

Phones spell check got me!

O2 is one week old
Good and tight
Already anti seized Bosch brand

Pass side o2 been the same since header installed 3 yrs or more

Was talking about ses light sorry

Checked when I got home code 13 but o2 just sits in the .500 range until I rev or gas it then it finally moves and loop switches

Sorry for confusion. 3rd shifter need sleep

grabbem88

Purchased the o2 conversion harness and new heated o2's

Install was simple and very easy

Gave the car 3 weeks of driving and ses light has only came on once

Mpg has increased and driveibilty has greatly improved

Only codes are 28 and 32 no more 13 which tells me the harness did do the trick so it was worth it.