Patman

I just got back my latest oil analysis results with 6200 miles on German made Castrol Syntec 0w30 and they look very good! Here are the results here:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=3;t=001362

This oil along with the K&N HP3002 oil filter is definitely a winning combination for the LT1. I drive my car very hard and the bearing wear with this oil and filter is lower than I've ever seen on an LT1. With this recipe my engine is going to last an extremely long time.

Cmr0z28

Awesome.....where do I get this stuff? Would it be okay to convert over to synthetic? Right now I run Castrol GTX in my engine.

Patman

In the US so far it's only been spotted in Autozone. You have to make sure it says made in Germany on the back label, not the US made 0w30 which is different.

You can switch from GTX to this stuff no problem.

jkipp84

Good to know, thanks Patman! I switched over to it for my Z, daily driver Honduh, and the wife's car a while back. Talk about cheap insurance!

Patman

It's $4.99 per quart I believe, but Autozone sometimes offers 6 for the price of 5 too, a lot of people stocked up when that happens (I know a guy in Colorado who has 140 quarts of this stuff!)

moparman

The Autozones in my area just started stocking this, about a month ago. As Patman stated, be sure to read the back label for the "made in Germany" verbage.

Shawn 97 Z28 M6

Hey Patman... Have you ever done an analysis on RP oil? Just wondering how it may compare..

Patman

I've never run RP in my LT1, but I did run it in my wife's car. I am now running the GC 0w30 in her car too so I can see how those two compared. I wasn't super thrilled with her results on Royal Purple. I do believe Royal Purple's Racing oils are much better, I'd recommend using Racing 41 in the LT1 over their 5w30 or 10w30 oil. I've seen some very impressive oil analysis results with people running Royal Purple Racing 21 and Racing 41 in GM V8s.

Shawn 97 Z28 M6

That's good to hear. I'm running their 41 in my car right now, and haven't had any issues. Well.. One time last year I was hotlapping my car @ the track and after a run I had 0 oil pressure. Immediately killed the car. Started it back up and everything was back to normal. It only happened the one time, and never has happened since. I'm running a moroso anti cav pump w/ high pressure spring, oil p/u tube w/a pickup hole that's about the size of a silver dollar, and the stock pan.

I'm not sure what oil I had in the car at the time - I think some 10w30 durablend, but I spoke w/ a Royal Purple rep and he sold me on their racing oil.

Geezer powered

What other weights does this stuff come in, ie 0w40 ,5w30, or 10w40 by any chance.

Dan Oldham

I've always just used conventional oil in my car, and I've never had any problems. I had 143000 miles on my motor when I rebuilt, and even then it was running just fine. The only reason I did the rebuild was because I had purchased a cam setup.

At the time of the rebuild, there was no engine smoke, no bad rings, no ticks or taps, etc.

I've also heard that synthetics tend to disintegrate gaskets over time. I'm not interested in replacing gaskets due to synthetic oil eating through them.

If it ain't broke, I'm not gonna fix it.

Grease

What are those results like compared to Mobil-1 10w30? Did you ever perform an oil analysis of Mobil-1?

WOT

Only 0w30 right now. Be careful you don't get the regular syntec with the yellow 0w30 label. Only one of my autozones has it (out of 5).

eagleknight97

Patman, whats your take on the specialty high mileage oils out there? Just a complete waste of money? Hurt the engine? Help it out? My cars got 92000 on it and its only seen dino oil, 5W-30, but its been a mix of diff brands. Ive only had the car for the last 20000, and ive been using either Castrol GTX or Valvoline High Mileage. So yeah.

Terran2k

Hey Patman, thanks for the reporting your results. I've only seen it at Autozone too, but its flying off the shelves lately.