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A guy came by today, he had motor oil in the coolant recovery can. I drained the radiator and his antifreeze looked to be reasonably clean. I can only assume the oil cooler is bad, motor oil is clean, no miss in eng. What is the part number of the filter adapter that will eliminate the cooler. Anyone have a better idea holla back. Danny Mc
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stupid *** wife/kids put oil in there purposefully thinking thats where it went?
1999 black Z28 convertible, M6 -spintech 4" edelbrock LT's, DD SFC's, 32mm front sway, Koni's, sphon LCA's, A-arms, upper and lower, 408ci stroker w/F13 cam, HS rockers, tuned by Fastchip and 1994 Z28 A4 T-top w/ LT's and magnaflow: now my brother's car
The adapter is already installed. When you take the cooler off you will see it. You just need to get 2 new bolts or cut the tops off the originals. It is a good idea to delete the cooler.
The adapter that is there when you remove the oil cooler is not what you need to run the filter. The threaded tube that the filter attaches too is too long. The correct part is not expensive and can usually be found for little cash on ebay.
Unless there is something wrong with the oil cooler, I don't agree that it's a 'good idea' to remove the cooler. It doesn't hurt anything as far as performance is concerned and it keeps the oil cooler for longer life.....
__________________ '94 Trans Am Ram Air: More Performance Heads, 11.0:1 CR, GM 846 cam, Meziere WP, True Roller timing set, Caddy racing lifters, Crane 1.6rr, 54mm TB, 30# FMC injectors, Magnecor wires, LT4 knock module PCMforLESS tune, Jet Hot LT, Corsa, SLP HD clutch, aluminum driveshaft, Moser 12-bolt. LS1 brake conversion, STB, SFC 401 rwhp,440 rwtq
As BW_Hunter stated ... the factory cooler helps by keeping the oil temps from getting too high and in colder climates it helps minimize cold running engine wear by bringing the oil temp up to design value quicker.
As Wild1 wrote ... I've seen a "slime layer" in my overflow tank too. I have no cooling system problems so it seems to be from the additives - anti-corrosion and water-wetter.
My factory oil cooler's been there for 15 years and has not caused any problems. The shop that built my stroker thought it was good enough to keep.
94 Formula A3+1: 381ci all-forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons/CNC LT4 heads/Comp Cams custom solid roller/TH400+GearVendors OD/4.11's/Strange 12-bolt/300-shot N2O/Spohn Suspension/6-pt roll bar with integrated SFC's/full AutoMeter instrumentation/MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system/a few other odds 'n ends.
My website is down. Hopefully, links/photos be restored in 2 or 3 weeks.
Guy that had oil in the coolant came back today. I got the adapter from an old block told my employee to remove the oil cooler and use the adapter,he came back and told me there is no cooler on the car above the filter.(95 Formula LT1) I just don't believe that anything is broken on that motor that will let oil get to radiator. The owner remarked he did'nt notice the oil in radiator till after he ran 1/2 can Sea foam in the oil for a couple of days before he changed it. I checked the coolant can it only had a thin film of what seemed to be oil on the plastic gauge since I cleaned it yesterday. I pressure checked the cooling system, compression check was good also, no problem with either one. The fuel pump went out 6 weeks ago, as it dropped pressure it leaned out and burned the cat up, we had to take the exhaust system apart to get the pieces out of the pipe and muffler, that is the most problem I know of with this car. I am out of ideas.