Lurch when accelerating 1995 Z28
#1
Lurch when accelerating 1995 Z28
this has only happened twice; the first time was end of April and the second time was yesterday.
both times, I was accelerating - once on highway once on local streets, so the speeds were different.
it was a slight lurching feeling, then the check engine light went on for about 3 minutes, then went off.
I know absolutely nothing about cars.... though I can put gas in the tank.
My husband is 1200 miles away, and he said... Go on line and google it.
I did not see too many threads, as most were with a modified vehicle... where mine is still completely original [with the exception of new tires 2 yrs ago]
the first time this happened, i was about 29300 on mileage, and now i'm roughly 30300.
any insight as to what may be causing this "lurching" on acceleration?
and my recollection, i was in 5th going to 6th at highway speed, and 2nd going into 3rd yesterday.
thanks in advance for any comments
both times, I was accelerating - once on highway once on local streets, so the speeds were different.
it was a slight lurching feeling, then the check engine light went on for about 3 minutes, then went off.
I know absolutely nothing about cars.... though I can put gas in the tank.
My husband is 1200 miles away, and he said... Go on line and google it.
I did not see too many threads, as most were with a modified vehicle... where mine is still completely original [with the exception of new tires 2 yrs ago]
the first time this happened, i was about 29300 on mileage, and now i'm roughly 30300.
any insight as to what may be causing this "lurching" on acceleration?
and my recollection, i was in 5th going to 6th at highway speed, and 2nd going into 3rd yesterday.
thanks in advance for any comments
#2
Re: Lurch when accelerating 1995 Z28
Scan it for codes, to see why the SES light came on. Most likely related to the "lurch" (stumble? ... misfire? .... complete engine shutdown?).
95 is hard to scan because the PCM is OBD-1, but the ALDL connector is a 16-pin OBD-2 style.
95 is hard to scan because the PCM is OBD-1, but the ALDL connector is a 16-pin OBD-2 style.
#3
Re: Lurch when accelerating 1995 Z28
Fred,
thanks for the reply....
DH said he will bring the DTC code reader back home and see if we get any codes on it.
and thankfully it was not a complete shut down, just a "stumble".
always freaks me out a bit.... since i don't know diddly about cars.
thanks for the reply....
DH said he will bring the DTC code reader back home and see if we get any codes on it.
and thankfully it was not a complete shut down, just a "stumble".
always freaks me out a bit.... since i don't know diddly about cars.
#4
Re: Lurch when accelerating 1995 Z28
Fred, my husband just emailed me. He tried to create a account here and he was sent somewhere else and flagged as a spammer. (obviously not correct) He said he doesnt have any more time today to try to get through that.
He asked me to ask you this. He has 2 DTC code readers. Both he believes are OBD-II. One is a SCT Xcalibrator 2 he used to do a custom program for a 05 Mustang. Someone else did the program he just uploaded it. The other was from Auto Zone and is a Actron CP9125 OBD II pocket scan.
Would either of them be able to read the DTC codes for the above condition? If no is there a attachment or plug that can be used to make it work with those readers?
TIA, TCS
He asked me to ask you this. He has 2 DTC code readers. Both he believes are OBD-II. One is a SCT Xcalibrator 2 he used to do a custom program for a 05 Mustang. Someone else did the program he just uploaded it. The other was from Auto Zone and is a Actron CP9125 OBD II pocket scan.
Would either of them be able to read the DTC codes for the above condition? If no is there a attachment or plug that can be used to make it work with those readers?
TIA, TCS
#5
Re: Lurch when accelerating 1995 Z28
Actron CP9125 OBD II - Will not work, will only scan 1996 and newer OBD-2. Your 95 is OBD-1.
SCT Xcalibrator 2 - Was not familiar with this, which would be explained by the fact the user manual that I found online describes it as a hand-held programmer for Ford OBD-2 computers. It will also scan and read trouble codes, but:
"The Xcalibrator 2 can read and erase DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) on the LCD display. This feature will work on any Ford based OBD2 vehicle."
It's not going to work on an OBD-1 GM product.
There are some older models of very simple AutoXray OBD-1 scanners that will pull the codes. But you need a 12-pin to 16-pin adapter, or need to use jumper wires:
http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg
There are some newer OBD-1 + OBD-2 scanners that claim to be able to read these cars, but will not connect because their OBD-1 connector is looking for a 12 Volt pin in the ALDL connector, and there is none.
The other alternative is a free software download plus a compatible cable:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...95-lt1-874306/
TTS Power Systems
There is also a system called FreeScan, but my link to it no longer works.
The advantage of scanning software is the ability to data log the PCM for an extnded period of driving, so that possible causes of the problem can be checked. That's in addition to the ability to pull the DTC codes.
SCT Xcalibrator 2 - Was not familiar with this, which would be explained by the fact the user manual that I found online describes it as a hand-held programmer for Ford OBD-2 computers. It will also scan and read trouble codes, but:
"The Xcalibrator 2 can read and erase DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) on the LCD display. This feature will work on any Ford based OBD2 vehicle."
It's not going to work on an OBD-1 GM product.
There are some older models of very simple AutoXray OBD-1 scanners that will pull the codes. But you need a 12-pin to 16-pin adapter, or need to use jumper wires:
http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg
There are some newer OBD-1 + OBD-2 scanners that claim to be able to read these cars, but will not connect because their OBD-1 connector is looking for a 12 Volt pin in the ALDL connector, and there is none.
The other alternative is a free software download plus a compatible cable:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...95-lt1-874306/
TTS Power Systems
There is also a system called FreeScan, but my link to it no longer works.
The advantage of scanning software is the ability to data log the PCM for an extnded period of driving, so that possible causes of the problem can be checked. That's in addition to the ability to pull the DTC codes.
#6
Re: Lurch when accelerating 1995 Z28
Thanks for all that extra info...
I did go into Auto Zone this morning.... the "kid" that attempted to read it, said the "box" in my car did not work because he could not get any codes....
so now I have an early morning appointment at the local Chevy dealer....
and if it's a "cheap fix" i'll get it done there, or wait for DH to get home to deal with it.
I will post back with what the results are.
I did go into Auto Zone this morning.... the "kid" that attempted to read it, said the "box" in my car did not work because he could not get any codes....
so now I have an early morning appointment at the local Chevy dealer....
and if it's a "cheap fix" i'll get it done there, or wait for DH to get home to deal with it.
I will post back with what the results are.
#7
Re: Lurch when accelerating 1995 Z28
the Code came up as a 0048
Mass Air Flow Sensor
[which is what Dh thought the problem was]
The service guy recommended to replace the sensor and the connector because there was green [corrosion - which he didn't tell me, just that it was green and needed to be replaced].
at a cost of $550 + tax [the part was $325]
I called DH and filled him in....
he walked me and my son to clean the corrosion [which there was hardly any] and put the connector back on. took all of about 5 minutes.
hopefully I'm back in business... time will tell as I have a long drive tomorrow.
Thanks again for all the input.
Mass Air Flow Sensor
[which is what Dh thought the problem was]
The service guy recommended to replace the sensor and the connector because there was green [corrosion - which he didn't tell me, just that it was green and needed to be replaced].
at a cost of $550 + tax [the part was $325]
I called DH and filled him in....
he walked me and my son to clean the corrosion [which there was hardly any] and put the connector back on. took all of about 5 minutes.
hopefully I'm back in business... time will tell as I have a long drive tomorrow.
Thanks again for all the input.
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