16Sammy61

I recently got a new trans in my z28. First drive i was going 105 down the highway and blew a cooler line off at the front. The clamp failed so now its redone with double clamps and a tie and it hasnt failed yet. Same day, was pulling out of a parking lot and it died. Wouldnt start for about 5 minutes. Evantually i turned the key and pushed the gas slightly and it came alive. Then stopped to get gas, same deal there too. Yesterday, i started it to move it in my driveway and it did the same thing, i had to pump the pedal a bit. Later that day it wouldnt start at all. It just turns and turns and turns but wont fire up, even with gas pedal pumped. I tried to hold the pedal down to see and clear it if it was flooded but that didnt work either. My first thought was fuel pump, but then again it wouldnt have drove as well as it did the day before right? Someone suggested the fuel pump relay...? Im sure its most likely a fuel delivery issue because the starter is new and it turns just fine. Any ideas?

shoebox

If you want to rule out the fuel pump, you will have to put a test gauge on it to see what the pressure is. You should also check to see if it is getting spark. That's pretty much the beginning standard tests for a no start condition.

Injuneer

Also a good idea to scan it for codes. DTC 16 - loss of low resolution pulse signal from the optical cam position sensor in the distributor, will cause the fuel system to shut down, and does not turn on the SES light.

When the coolant line let go, did the distributer get drenched?

16Sammy61

Well ive been waiting on some cables(the ones suggested in the Scan94/95 thread) from ebay and its been about 3-4 weeks. Wont have a sure way to find codes until it gets here. Whats the easiest way to go about getting to the fuel pump to test the pressure? I know you could do it more than one way, but which would be easiest?

The line sprayed eveywhere. Im not sure if it did get the distributor or not, but now that i think about it....it most likely did. It was down the passenger side of the car, on the front passenger wheel, on the air dam, and up on top of the alternator. Hope its alright, as im not exactly in a good spot to have someone put a opti on for me.

shoebox

You connect a test gauge to the shrader valve at the back of the intake to check fuel pressure. That's the only way you can do it.

16Sammy61

Alright ill check it when i get ahold of a tool for it. Also, i just got home at 3:15. Put the key in and turned it. It did as usual and just turned for about 5 seconds but i touched the gas and....boom it comes roaring alive. So it seems it only likes to start when it is cold. Is this is a symptom of the opti failing?

Update: figured while i could get it warm for a few minutes, i would do an oil change. After it was done, i went to start it and same thing. Turns for 5-6 seconds but when i touched the gas pedal, it started. I parked it and it idled for a minute then cut off. Went to restart and nothing, even with pumping the gas. And while i was under i checked out the opti. It is bone dry and it wasnt hit by the trans fluid from the line busting out.

Injuneer

Heat soak can cause intermittent problems with the ICM, optical module in the Opti, or the fuel pump.

16Sammy61

So one it gets hot, it doesn't like to work properly?

shoebox

True on about anything with electronics in it.

There are so many things it could be at this point. Since it seems to start sometimes by opening the throttle (adding more air), it could even be getting flooded. Check the vacuum hose that goes to the fuel pressure regulator for any signs of fuel or fuel smell.

16Sammy61

Doesnt seem to be any fuel, and doesnt smell of it. My friend is bringing some testing tools to test multiple things like electrical and things. I was thinking maybe the coil had something to do with it? Once it gets warmed it doesnt want to start again. But would that also cause it to die some times?

16Sammy61

I boosted the battery and was driving it for about 5 minutes and it died. No noise or nothing just lost all power. I coasted to a driveway and sat for about 5 minutes and it evantually started, but BARELY. It struggled. I put it in reverse and when i hit the gas it cut off. I had to sit for about 10 minutes and it evantually started, again struggling. On the way home it died again and had to coast into my driveway with no power steering i know i seem ignorant to keep posting but i am still waiting on cables to use Scan94/95. Just trying to see if these are definitive symptoms of a problem.

What about the ignition coil/ICM? Injuneer said that heat soak can cause problems with it, and these symptons sound dead on. It starts fine cold and evantually dies...doesnt want to restart, cools for a little and works, then gets hot again and dies. Thatsound like a faulty one to me.. If it is bad is there any way to define it as just the coil or the ICM. The coil is not a bad price, but just for a ICM its over 3 times the amount of the coil.

Injuneer

Have the. ICM tested at an auto parts store. Make sure they get it good and hot. That may show up the problem.

16Sammy61

Update: took off icm, let it cool and hooked it back up. It started fine. Also, it idled better as at the same time my air filter and intake was off without a MAF? This indicates its faulty right? Is there a way to stop so much heat getting to the icm?

Injuneer

Shoebox always has the answer :

4th Gen LT1 F-body Tech Articles

Be sure your ICM is installed against the heat sink using heat transfer compound.

16Sammy61

Well i went to do this and found that my outboard "stud" is a bolt with a tiny washer behind it and two ground straps held in place by it. Could it be possible to simulate the distance by adding another nut(such as the one used on the inboard stud which now holds the bracket) and put it behind the bracket on the bolt to simulate the nut that would already be on the stud? And 3 3/8" washers of course but would the ground straps severely interfere with the even spacing? that may sound confusing snd if so ill try to be "more less specific"