Injuneer

You really need to use Shoebox's website. He has the IAC relearn procedure. He also has photos of things like the IAC.

lildemars09

Yea I know I used the Google search and shoebox never came up but im going to start using that since the info is given in that website. Now am I correct about my IAC being installed wrong? The plug port shouldn't be facing downwards? Unless it all depends how it functioning it might matter how the port is facing.

lildemars09

So using this procedure from shoebox, will the IAC adjust itself? I do not have the old one to measure how that one was because I sent my old TB out to BBK with those parts on the TB thinking they needed them to test what was wrong with the TB (the butterflies were sticking) and they sent me a brand new one but they kept my parts and "could not find them". Now since I didn't realize the different length for the screws (I may be able to just figure it out with the contour of the plate) but I couldn't find a Diagram on shbox website for this? I figure it doesn't happen much so they don't include this but any suggestions?

lildemars09

Ok so I checked the continuity on this IAC, I am getting good readings, 51.4 Ohms. Now there is only one way to install this IAC to where the holes on the IAC line up with the holes on the plate, so installing it incorrectly really cant happen. Even if I attempted to make the other hole bigger to get it to fix I do not have enough room to make it bigger. Also one more thing, some guys oil the gasket to make a tighter seal between the plate and Tb, is this, in your opinion a good idea? (I have new gaskets on this)

lildemars09

Anyone else?

Injuneer

I wouldn't worry about oiling the bottom plate gasket.

In your earlier post (#15), you indicated the opening for the harness connector on the IAC was pointing down. Seems odd.... Shoebox's photos and mine show it pointing straight ahead.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/mem...2978a-6505.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/iac3.jpg

You have too check the bottom plate screws using trial and error. It's been a long time since I took mine apart, but I know I have responded to posts regarding coolant leaks on the bottom plate, and coolant getting into the throttle body air passages due to the bottom plate not being tightened correctly, due to long screw in short hole.

Just to be clear.... there is no "they" at shbox.com . That site is the product of one person, Rob, who has done more for the LT1 community in the last 20 years than anyone I know.

Do you still have the clicking relays? That would possibly be the result of low battery voltage.

lildemars09

Yea thats what I saw on shbox website and I was confused because mine points downward... unless summit sent me wrong part. I will have to check to see if summit sent me wrong part.

Alright I wil do the trial and error and see what i come up with.

Ok thats somethin good to know.

I have not yet heard the clicking but I may just buy a new relay its only $16 so im not yo worried about it or I can just switch my fog light relay with the air pump relay since they are the same relay.

lildemars09

Well for right now I believe I fixed the problem I drove around today and it didnt stall. I found out summit sent me wrong IAC so sent that back and got new one and did the reset amd it idles good besides it still feels like it wants to stall while in gear so back to the drawing board for that. Prolly nothing hard but for others who have this problem. This is what I replaced/did maybe this will help u.

I changed the ICM, IAC, cleaned MAF, reset IAC, changed out fuel pump relay and checked fuel pressure which was 43 psi WOT and 36psi at idle, checked my TPS for correct voltage betweem blue and black wire that was .667v closed- 4.56 WOT. So I hope this helps anyone else that has this problem.