Big Puddin'

Ok, I'm reassembling my 94, after installing new optic and wires and did oil cooler bypass and EGR and cat delete and installed stainless long tube headers. I've got the front end as high as I could get it to front of engine. I have NOT installed anything back on front of engine save opti, plug wires, and coil.
Battery fully charged.
Tried to crank, went about 10 seconds or so, with it turning over at regular speed, but no attempts to fire off and thrill me with open headers. Since then, nothing. No headlights, no horn, though does maintain courtesy light and buzzer will go off inserting key. I've checked fuse panel under hood and driver side dash, none blown.
I can crank it without attached alternator, for short run, can't I? Why no headlights or horn despite 12.8 volts? Yet, I have courtesy light and key buzzer.
Is there some inertia switch based on how level car is, I do have front end super high to aid me working on front of engine (can't bend over due to herniated and torn discs). Is there a hidden fuse panel I can't find?
I appreciate your time to read and respond. I'm getting under the gun, as my son overheated his old Chrysler and it's got a rod knocking now, and I need to get this z28 going tomorrow and front of engine and all that stuff reassembled so I can get duals hooked up Saturday, so he can get to school Monday (and me to work in my only other car that runs).

Big Puddin'

Meant to type Optispark of course.

bw_hunter

There's inertia switch that would activate if the front is up high...and most switches would deactivate the fuel pump..

You can start and run the engine with the belt off the alternator for short periods of time. I think it has to be electrically connect, though.

When you mention lose of electrical power to certain items I think of two things, the ignition switch and the fusible links. The fusible links are on the passenger side fender well, near the red power junction box. You know where the ignition switch is...

I hope this helps.

Big Puddin'

I think I'm victim of a joker somewhere. Someone had removed headlight fuses from under hood fuse panel, at some point when I'd gave up and it sat outside fence for couple months.
EI think it's that in conjunction with shorted starter. Can a shorted starter make dome and horn and radio things intermittent, wow this is sounding like floating ground

GaryDoug

There are no headlight fuses, only fusible links, and those are not in a fuse box. You may be looking at the headlight door fuses, which are not used in a Camaro. And as far as I know, there is no "inertia/tilt" switch.

Big Puddin'

I'd like to say thanks for the help. without posting results, it doesn't help those who run future search, so that's why I'm back. Besides water leaks I fixed, my main issue of dropping power, or what I thought was floating ground, was a buggered up hot post side of the side post battery. And, had it running little, and kept dropping power with intermittent pop and dropped no idle, and so forth. Wound up being the same hot side working lose yet again, where I had installed bolts.
So, a lot of my issue was stripped hot side on side post battery that isn't going to hold no matter what I guess. I know everyone is fond of side posts because they don't corrode up as much, I've read, but as for me, I'm hopeful to run a search on here and find battery group size posted by someone who has found what size top post will fit. I'm sure it is hard to find a top post that will fit due to low hood. BUT, wanted to express gratitude for help, and post what exactly was wrong. What appeared as floating ground was floating hot. Big Puddin'

Chimera96

Good you found the problem, battery post, and posted so anyone searching and finding this thread see's what resolved the problem

Far as side post vs top post battery I prefer the side post. I do now run Garys battery cables which IMHO are the best. His kit has threaded studs you put in the side posts and battery cable has large eye going over that with a nut (9/16 wrench) goes over

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