Ignition/Electrical Problems
#1
Ignition/Electrical Problems
Howdy All,
Last night on the way to work, my lights dimmed down (like I was running on battery) and my radio "turned off and on" 3 times. When I got to work, I tried to restart, I had dome, head lights, and accessories but the entire startup process was dead. I had no ding, ding, ding, and my dashboard was dead. There was no attempt at ignition. After about a minute, I lost all of that. I was sitting in a dead empty shell, no accessories, nothing. I steamed on it for a bit and went back out to try again. I clicked my key fob and it worked, that was an improvement. Then I popped the hood, played with circuit breakers, double seated the relays, wiggled the wiring harness under the breaker/relay box, wiggled the battery cables, and tapped on the alternater. Looking back, most of these were the wrong logical place to look. Anywho, she fired right up. No dimming. This morning, I drove it home, no problem. I have a feeling there's a relay or one of it's relatives getting read to die. I have no idea which one or where to start. Please help?
Thanks Gabe
Last night on the way to work, my lights dimmed down (like I was running on battery) and my radio "turned off and on" 3 times. When I got to work, I tried to restart, I had dome, head lights, and accessories but the entire startup process was dead. I had no ding, ding, ding, and my dashboard was dead. There was no attempt at ignition. After about a minute, I lost all of that. I was sitting in a dead empty shell, no accessories, nothing. I steamed on it for a bit and went back out to try again. I clicked my key fob and it worked, that was an improvement. Then I popped the hood, played with circuit breakers, double seated the relays, wiggled the wiring harness under the breaker/relay box, wiggled the battery cables, and tapped on the alternater. Looking back, most of these were the wrong logical place to look. Anywho, she fired right up. No dimming. This morning, I drove it home, no problem. I have a feeling there's a relay or one of it's relatives getting read to die. I have no idea which one or where to start. Please help?
Thanks Gabe
#2
Re: Ignition/Electrical Problems
I forgot to add, I've had an ignition switch go out, and it acted way different. My gauges went haywire all over the place. Is it possible that is the culprit? Due to the total loss of electrical stuff I doubt it. I know some of you experienced guys have already seen this. It's my only car, please help?
Thanks, Gabe
Thanks, Gabe
#5
Re: Ignition/Electrical Problems
Have you pulled any connections and checked for any corrosion? The battery cables come to mind. The contact surface can not be seen unless they are removed. My pickup does the same thing every year and I have to clean the battery terminals.
Also don't forget to remove and clean the ground points at the frame and the engine. The positive cluster on the passenger fender should be cleaned and the small ground right near it too.
When you get a chance, measure the voltage across the battery while a helper is cranking the engine. Wear safety glasses. The voltage across the battery should not drop below 11 volts. Then after it starts, measure the battery voltage again and it should be around 14 volts. If either of the readings is low, have the battery load tested first and then have the alternator tested. A last test to do to the alternator while the engine is running, is check for leaky diodes. Put your test meter on AC and measure from the negative terminal of the battery to the output post of the alternator. You should not see a reading higher than 0.03 VAC. If it is higher the diodes are defective and the alternator will have to be replaced.
Also don't forget to remove and clean the ground points at the frame and the engine. The positive cluster on the passenger fender should be cleaned and the small ground right near it too.
When you get a chance, measure the voltage across the battery while a helper is cranking the engine. Wear safety glasses. The voltage across the battery should not drop below 11 volts. Then after it starts, measure the battery voltage again and it should be around 14 volts. If either of the readings is low, have the battery load tested first and then have the alternator tested. A last test to do to the alternator while the engine is running, is check for leaky diodes. Put your test meter on AC and measure from the negative terminal of the battery to the output post of the alternator. You should not see a reading higher than 0.03 VAC. If it is higher the diodes are defective and the alternator will have to be replaced.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post