how to run JUST the alternator with the tensioner belt?
#16
Re: how to run JUST the alternator with the tensioner belt?
If you carge at 30A between passes for 30 min or so you should be fine.Crank it with the charger hooked up and minimize your restart's going to the line and don't run head lights until return road.
#18
Re: how to run JUST the alternator with the tensioner belt?
I've made an Alt cut-out that only disengauges the alt during WOT.
The underdrive pulley with belt remains but when I floor it, the alt charge wire is interupted and it drops from 14.5v to about 12.5. I have huge car stereo with five amplifiers so it needs all it can get from the 200 amp Powermaster alt.
So I ran it against a Cobra R (the one without back seat and alum fuel cell, etc.) and I smoked him bad. Of course I pushed the N20 button, but that just proves you can make a bonzai run from stop to 120mph without the alt charging.
The underdrive pulley with belt remains but when I floor it, the alt charge wire is interupted and it drops from 14.5v to about 12.5. I have huge car stereo with five amplifiers so it needs all it can get from the 200 amp Powermaster alt.
So I ran it against a Cobra R (the one without back seat and alum fuel cell, etc.) and I smoked him bad. Of course I pushed the N20 button, but that just proves you can make a bonzai run from stop to 120mph without the alt charging.
#20
Re: how to run JUST the alternator with the tensioner belt?
Yes, the drag is removed when the break is made to the 18 gauge wire leading to the bottom/back of the alt.
When the cut-out disengages it, the voltage gauge drops from 14.5V down to 12.5 until I lift the throttle.
So my nitrous solenoids and MSD, etc are itching for more juice during that quick romp against unsuspecting COBRA R's.
A stock alt requires 10 - 15 hp to run when the charge is demanded.
My 200amp unit takes closer to 20 -25hp. So I gladly accept the extra 20 hp.
When the cut-out disengages it, the voltage gauge drops from 14.5V down to 12.5 until I lift the throttle.
So my nitrous solenoids and MSD, etc are itching for more juice during that quick romp against unsuspecting COBRA R's.
A stock alt requires 10 - 15 hp to run when the charge is demanded.
My 200amp unit takes closer to 20 -25hp. So I gladly accept the extra 20 hp.
#21
Re: how to run JUST the alternator with the tensioner belt?
So the more power you draw from the alternator, the more horsepower it will require to turn?
I found this with a quick search... here's a piece below:
Before you disconnect the alternator, consider my discovery the other night.
We had a small block Chevy on the dyno with an MSD. To supply power we
always use a fully charged battery, and leave the charger running to
produce 13.8 volts. Well, the other night we forgot to turn on the charger,
and the engine was down about 17 horsepower. The charger went back on
and the power came back. We then began to experiment. Anything less than
13.4 caused a significant power loss, more than 14.0 did not help. Now,
these were not the most efficient combustion chambers because the racing
class required mostly stock parts, so they were very sensitive to MSD
ignition. More efficient chambers are less sensitive to the MSD, but
it is still more than 2 HP.
You should check out the number of race cars, in all classes, that run
alternators. You will be quite surprised how many use them. When we
are looking for that extra 0.01 second, we make sure the alternator is
working.
I found this with a quick search... here's a piece below:
Before you disconnect the alternator, consider my discovery the other night.
We had a small block Chevy on the dyno with an MSD. To supply power we
always use a fully charged battery, and leave the charger running to
produce 13.8 volts. Well, the other night we forgot to turn on the charger,
and the engine was down about 17 horsepower. The charger went back on
and the power came back. We then began to experiment. Anything less than
13.4 caused a significant power loss, more than 14.0 did not help. Now,
these were not the most efficient combustion chambers because the racing
class required mostly stock parts, so they were very sensitive to MSD
ignition. More efficient chambers are less sensitive to the MSD, but
it is still more than 2 HP.
You should check out the number of race cars, in all classes, that run
alternators. You will be quite surprised how many use them. When we
are looking for that extra 0.01 second, we make sure the alternator is
working.
#22
Re: how to run JUST the alternator with the tensioner belt?
The higher amp rating draws more HP from engine.
Also, that blurb about losing power from the MSD.... they didn't say which MSD unit.
They prob used the 7 series.
Also, that blurb about losing power from the MSD.... they didn't say which MSD unit.
They prob used the 7 series.
#24
Re: how to run JUST the alternator with the tensioner belt?
I picked up .05 when removing the belt. Both on 1.68 short times, back to back runs, similiar coolant temps in between. Car had a bolt on crank pulley too.
Load on the alternator does NOT affect how hard it is to turn over. A higher amperage alternator will take up more HP as the rotor inside it is heavier. Alts work on the principle of induction. Spin a magnet inside a field of coils and you get AC current. There is no way that the armature knows the load on itself. After the AC current is rectified, it goes through a voltage reg which will control your output. If you need more current, it will feed more voltage into the rotor making it a stronger magnet. However, as you make the north field stonger, you also make the south equally strong. The forces are going to cancel each other out negating the fact that its producing more amperage.
Load on the alternator does NOT affect how hard it is to turn over. A higher amperage alternator will take up more HP as the rotor inside it is heavier. Alts work on the principle of induction. Spin a magnet inside a field of coils and you get AC current. There is no way that the armature knows the load on itself. After the AC current is rectified, it goes through a voltage reg which will control your output. If you need more current, it will feed more voltage into the rotor making it a stronger magnet. However, as you make the north field stonger, you also make the south equally strong. The forces are going to cancel each other out negating the fact that its producing more amperage.
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