Welcome to Camaro Z28!

Welcome to CamaroZ28.Com, the ultimate Source for Camaro enthusiasts! Here you can join over 90,000 Camaro enthusiasts from around the world discussing all things related to Camaros and more. You are currently viewing as a guest which gives you limited access to view discussions

To gain full access to our forums you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:
  • Participate in over 40 different forums and search/browse from over 5 million posts.
  • Upload your Camaro details to your Garage
  • Post photos, respond to polls and access other special features
  • Gain access to our free marketplace to buy, sell and trade Camaros, parts and more.
All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you register for an account, so join our community today today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support.


Go Back   CamaroZ28.Com Message Board > 1967-2002 Powertrain Discussion > LT1 Based Engine Tech
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Reply Post New Thread
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-22-2003, 07:25 PM   #1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 461
How to Clean Pistons and Cylinder Walls??

Hey,
Finally finished pulling the heads today, and some nice puddles of coolant made their way into the cylinders, which i cleaned up, but the pistons still have some nice buildup on them, and was wondering what is the best and most effective way to clean the pistons, and what cleaners are safe to use.
Thanks,
Brandon
This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on CamaroZ28.com!
Brandon 95 Z28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2003, 07:38 PM   #2
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 148
i used super clean on mine and carb. cleaner and nothin is wrong so i would recommend that you use them for the cleaning.
__________________
97 30th Z28, 3.73's, 160 degree therm., underdrive pully, FOR SALE!!!
nitropatch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2003, 07:49 PM   #3
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Lowcountry
Posts: 941
Don't even touch the cylinder walls. To clean the piston tops I'd rotate the crank to bring each one to the top and clean with a razor. If need be something like carb cleaner will help break up the deposits. It probably goes without saying but some people have made the mistake of using harsh abrasives (scotch brite type material, sandpaper, etc.) on engine internals which is

When you are done coat the cylinder walls with oil or they will rust in a hurry. Some fine surface rust won't hurt much but I'd avoid it as much as possible. If you use a cleaner it'll wipe the bores clean too, which is why I avoid it if possible.
__________________
Fun Car - '95 Formula (Buttercup), M6
Cheap, DIY mods: Engine, Chassis, Suspension, Drivetrain, Brakes, Tuning, Stereo
12.505@114.3mph and 30mpg... Time for real mods!
DD - '09 G8 GT (Bertha), cat-back, sway bars, in need of M6... Comfy fat-***!
Buttercup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2003, 07:55 PM   #4
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 425
Send a message via AIM to snksknr94
Brake clean
__________________
Aaron
1994 B4C Z28, M6
Mods: I got a few
AZFBA
my car
snksknr94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2003, 08:25 PM   #5
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 461
Hmm ok. all I have done so far is wipe down the pistons and cylinders with a soft t-tshirt to get the water off, and i was thinking carb cleaner might work for the piston tops. So you think I should lube the cylinder walls with oil after??
Brandon
Brandon 95 Z28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2003, 08:43 PM   #6
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 610
Have the piston at TDC and use Seafoam and a scotch pad (Non Metallic) works great for carbon and pistons will look like new.
RCF925 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2003, 09:17 PM   #7
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 425
Send a message via AIM to snksknr94
Yes spray them with WD40 to keep them from rusting. I told you this earlier, man. Even World Class Steve said to do it.
__________________
Aaron
1994 B4C Z28, M6
Mods: I got a few
AZFBA
my car
snksknr94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2003, 09:24 PM   #8
Registered User
 
Dave88LX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: AACO, MD
Posts: 2,168
Send a message via AIM to Dave88LX
I used a putty knife to scrape the tops of my pistons, then a razor blade held by vice grips.

MAKE SURE YOU DRAIN/CHANGE YOUR OIL BEFORE YOU START IT BACK UP!!!!
Dave88LX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2003, 11:00 PM   #9
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Lowcountry
Posts: 941
Quote:
Originally posted by snksknr94
Yes spray them with WD40 to keep them from rusting. I told you this earlier, man. Even World Class Steve said to do it.
Depends on how long the engine will be down. WD40 evaporates and runs off much quicker than motor oil. You don't want a lot of oil, just some on a rag and a quick swipe should protect the walls enough. It's just how **** you want to be I guess, the engine would live without any but some protection is much preferred.
Buttercup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2003, 11:14 PM   #10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 129
Wipe the cylinder walls with engine oil, and rotate the engine a few times to place the pistons in different spots to do it. Remove any loose particles that way. Don't bother scraping the piston tops - putting some hard carbon particles down the piston sides is more damaging than leaving them alone. Any carbon that is stuck fast is best left there. The engine will only make new carbon again anyways in a few miles.
WD-40 is a solvent really, and carb cleaner is highly akaline. Just use engine oil.
__________________
94 Z28 A4 Coupe, Black, Trans-Go kit in custom rebuild, NGK TR55, Michelin Pilot Z4 245/50-16, K&N CAI kit, LS1 driveshaft, SLP 2OTL exhaust system, 1LE intake elbow, deleted air pump system, BMR adjustable Panhard rod and rubber/poly LCA's, Pioneer DEH P47DH with six custom speakers.
Vader is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2003, 08:01 AM   #11
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 420
Take a look at my results...

http://bedford.no-ip.org/piston_scrub.htm
__________________
355ci 93 LT1 M6. Forged pistons, ARP hardware, ported heads and intake, 1.6 RR, Holley 58mm TB, 42# injectors, hooker LTs, mufflex 3.5, spintech muffler, LTCC, Moser 9in with 3.89, AS&M CAI, Nitrous Outlet plate kit, FJO progressive controller, Single adj rear shocks, stock springs, heated O2s, vented opti, B&M ripper, pcm4less tune.
OutKast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2003, 08:25 AM   #12
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Webberville, MI USA
Posts: 150
Congratulations OutKast, on filling your engine with abrasive. Scotchbrite pads are huge engine killers. You probably didn't kill the engine in your case but reccomending using scotchbrite pads to others is a no-no. It may not appear that you did damage but if you take that engine apart there will be numerous scores on the pistons, rings, and piston skirts to prove me right. The fine particles get washed down in between bore and the piston and there isn't any way to get them out of there other than to embed them in the piston and then they become little honing stones on your bores.

Take it from your ASE Certified Master tech with 20 years in the business of working on engines. Don't use scotchbrite pads.

Vader has the right idea in this case. Don't try to "clean" it just protect the bores with some oil and don't add any dirt during the rebuild.
dave1w41 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2003, 08:40 AM   #13
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 420
Thanks brother....you ASEs need to get your head out of your *** and agree on something because I was shown the method by an ASE. I did it over 10k miles ago, have run scores of low 12 sec passes, sprayed my share of juice and still drive it to work everyday in the Florida heat. That my friend is reliability.

When the carbon has built up to the point where you see it flaking you've got to do something. I have done this with excellent results.

Personally...I've had ASEs try to work on the simplest problems with my car only to find they didn't know sh*t so don't push your glorified piece of paper in my face. Care to take a poll on how satisfied most people are with work done at the dealer by your ASE bretheren?
__________________
355ci 93 LT1 M6. Forged pistons, ARP hardware, ported heads and intake, 1.6 RR, Holley 58mm TB, 42# injectors, hooker LTs, mufflex 3.5, spintech muffler, LTCC, Moser 9in with 3.89, AS&M CAI, Nitrous Outlet plate kit, FJO progressive controller, Single adj rear shocks, stock springs, heated O2s, vented opti, B&M ripper, pcm4less tune.
OutKast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2003, 08:47 AM   #14
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,279
*Puts on his heat repellent suit and hopes the flames don't get too hot*
__________________
88 RX7 10AE with LT1/M6 conversion. forged pistons and rods 383. 12.4 SCR / 9.4 DCR. Comp Cams 236/242 112 LSA, worked AFR 190's, 58MM TB, CC 1.6 Pro Mags. My own tune.

95 M6 Firehawk #588, original engine taken to 383. Sold...
95Blackhawk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2003, 09:07 AM   #15
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Lowcountry
Posts: 941
He's right Outkast. Never use ANY abrasives on internals. I think you'll see that a higher percentage of folks have engine failure after doing so. Many of the people here on this site that have spun bearings and such after a cam swap have used scotch brite pads or even sandpaper for removing gasket material. Don't even use the ones sold for this purpose, it's a mistake and it's playing with fire.

I'm no ASE certified mechanic but I've been around enough to know this
Buttercup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2003, 09:07 AM
 
Reply Post New Thread

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:07 PM.


Copyright © 1996-2013 CamaroZ28.Com. All rights reserved.

Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.