How to check bearings and replace oil pump?
02-07-2010, 11:39 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Langley, BC Canada
Posts: 371
How to check bearings and replace oil pump?
I been having oil pressure problems and took the car off the road about 2 years ago. Now that I have a shop to work in (no hoist) Im ready to tackle this problem, finally!!
Problem is, when the car warms up while driving and when I come to a stop the oil drops in the red.
- I had the oil sending unit wire replaced as it was damaged.
- The oil sending unit was changed
- Mechanical gauge showed 6psi when warm and at a stand still.
- no codes present as this is not really a computer related issue.
So all this info has lead me to check my bearings and replace my oil pump.
Now for my actual question at hand....
Im wondering what the best way to remove and replace the oil pump would be. And how do you check the bearings?
From what I have read, I have to lift the engine off its mounts 3 inches to be able to access the oil pan and pump?
Any info and write-ups MUCH appreciated!
Problem is, when the car warms up while driving and when I come to a stop the oil drops in the red.
- I had the oil sending unit wire replaced as it was damaged.
- The oil sending unit was changed
- Mechanical gauge showed 6psi when warm and at a stand still.
- no codes present as this is not really a computer related issue.
So all this info has lead me to check my bearings and replace my oil pump.
Now for my actual question at hand....
Im wondering what the best way to remove and replace the oil pump would be. And how do you check the bearings?
From what I have read, I have to lift the engine off its mounts 3 inches to be able to access the oil pan and pump?
Any info and write-ups MUCH appreciated!
02-08-2010, 05:35 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: las vegas
Posts: 764
I been having oil pressure problems and took the car off the road about 2 years ago. Now that I have a shop to work in (no hoist) Im ready to tackle this problem, finally!!
Problem is, when the car warms up while driving and when I come to a stop the oil drops in the red.
- I had the oil sending unit wire replaced as it was damaged.
- The oil sending unit was changed
- Mechanical gauge showed 6psi when warm and at a stand still.
- no codes present as this is not really a computer related issue.
So all this info has lead me to check my bearings and replace my oil pump.
Now for my actual question at hand....
Im wondering what the best way to remove and replace the oil pump would be. And how do you check the bearings?
From what I have read, I have to lift the engine off its mounts 3 inches to be able to access the oil pan and pump?
Any info and write-ups MUCH appreciated!
Problem is, when the car warms up while driving and when I come to a stop the oil drops in the red.
- I had the oil sending unit wire replaced as it was damaged.
- The oil sending unit was changed
- Mechanical gauge showed 6psi when warm and at a stand still.
- no codes present as this is not really a computer related issue.
So all this info has lead me to check my bearings and replace my oil pump.
Now for my actual question at hand....
Im wondering what the best way to remove and replace the oil pump would be. And how do you check the bearings?
From what I have read, I have to lift the engine off its mounts 3 inches to be able to access the oil pan and pump?
Any info and write-ups MUCH appreciated!
02-11-2010, 02:08 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Harrison Township, MI
Posts: 40
Yes you have to raise the engine 3 inches to be able to remove the pan. As for the pump follow these steps
1. support oil pump, remove pump-to-rear main bearing cap bolt
2. Lower pump and remove it along with pump drive shaft. the hard nylon sleeve is used to align the oil pump drive shaft and the oil pump shaft. make sure sleeve is in place on the oil pump drive shaft.
3. Make sure the pump drive shaft is mated with the shaft inside the pump when installing new pump
4. Position the pump on the engine and make sure the slot in the upper end of the drive shaft is aligned with the tang on the lower end of the oil pump drive. make sure they mate properly.
5. install mounting bolt and torque it to spec.. which i believe is 65 ft-lbs.
As for the bearings, inspect them. look for the overlay on the bearing to be wiped out, that's usually the case with lack of oil.
1. support oil pump, remove pump-to-rear main bearing cap bolt
2. Lower pump and remove it along with pump drive shaft. the hard nylon sleeve is used to align the oil pump drive shaft and the oil pump shaft. make sure sleeve is in place on the oil pump drive shaft.
3. Make sure the pump drive shaft is mated with the shaft inside the pump when installing new pump
4. Position the pump on the engine and make sure the slot in the upper end of the drive shaft is aligned with the tang on the lower end of the oil pump drive. make sure they mate properly.
5. install mounting bolt and torque it to spec.. which i believe is 65 ft-lbs.
As for the bearings, inspect them. look for the overlay on the bearing to be wiped out, that's usually the case with lack of oil.
02-11-2010, 11:17 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,001
Oil pumps rarely if ever go bad - but there is the possibility that the bypass is gummed up if oil changes have been infrequent. Make sure to look for babbitt pushing out from the cam bearings when you're able to look up inside the motor - that's a common failure that causes low rpm oil pressure issues.
02-11-2010, 10:45 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Langley, BC Canada
Posts: 371
What is babbitt and can you see up inside the motor from underneath? I know quite a few things about the external part of the motor but just learning about the inside of the motor.
02-12-2010, 07:12 AM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Kissimmee, Fl, USA
Posts: 1,942
It actually sounds like the pickup fell out of the oil pump. And, believe it or not, 6 psi is acceptable although it would make me crazy...lol
In all honesty, changing the pump really isn't going to fix everything. Low oil pressure, except due to a pickup problem, is rarely caused by the pump. The cam bearing clearances actually control the oil pressure. You could possibly spend the time required to remove the oil pan...it is a pain in the tail...replace the oil pump and all the main and rod bearings and still have low oil pressure. You'll be better served removing the engine and doing a rebuild.....or a rebuild light if you have a strict budget.
OK, that all said, if you want to try the pump replacement thing figure on a weekend. You have to raise the engine a whole lot more than three inches off it's mounts to get the pan out...especially if you have a 6-speed. You'll have to remove the starter and the y-pipe. If you want to change the bearings, you'll need a deep well 16mm socket to get the main caps off. Something almost everyone does is to have the pickup tack welded to the oil pump body...do it! Oh, some will tell you there is a kit that uses the oil pump cover bolts to hold on the pickup...that works too. Anyway, if you want to do this, post up...we'll give you a step-by-step...
In all honesty, changing the pump really isn't going to fix everything. Low oil pressure, except due to a pickup problem, is rarely caused by the pump. The cam bearing clearances actually control the oil pressure. You could possibly spend the time required to remove the oil pan...it is a pain in the tail...replace the oil pump and all the main and rod bearings and still have low oil pressure. You'll be better served removing the engine and doing a rebuild.....or a rebuild light if you have a strict budget.
OK, that all said, if you want to try the pump replacement thing figure on a weekend. You have to raise the engine a whole lot more than three inches off it's mounts to get the pan out...especially if you have a 6-speed. You'll have to remove the starter and the y-pipe. If you want to change the bearings, you'll need a deep well 16mm socket to get the main caps off. Something almost everyone does is to have the pickup tack welded to the oil pump body...do it! Oh, some will tell you there is a kit that uses the oil pump cover bolts to hold on the pickup...that works too. Anyway, if you want to do this, post up...we'll give you a step-by-step...
02-12-2010, 09:42 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kantuckee Yo'
Posts: 4,405
It actually sounds like the pickup fell out of the oil pump. And, believe it or not, 6 psi is acceptable although it would make me crazy...lol
In all honesty, changing the pump really isn't going to fix everything. Low oil pressure, except due to a pickup problem, is rarely caused by the pump. The cam bearing clearances actually control the oil pressure. You could possibly spend the time required to remove the oil pan...it is a pain in the tail...replace the oil pump and all the main and rod bearings and still have low oil pressure. You'll be better served removing the engine and doing a rebuild.....or a rebuild light if you have a strict budget.
OK, that all said, if you want to try the pump replacement thing figure on a weekend. You have to raise the engine a whole lot more than three inches off it's mounts to get the pan out...especially if you have a 6-speed. You'll have to remove the starter and the y-pipe. If you want to change the bearings, you'll need a deep well 16mm socket to get the main caps off. Something almost everyone does is to have the pickup tack welded to the oil pump body...do it! Oh, some will tell you there is a kit that uses the oil pump cover bolts to hold on the pickup...that works too. Anyway, if you want to do this, post up...we'll give you a step-by-step...
In all honesty, changing the pump really isn't going to fix everything. Low oil pressure, except due to a pickup problem, is rarely caused by the pump. The cam bearing clearances actually control the oil pressure. You could possibly spend the time required to remove the oil pan...it is a pain in the tail...replace the oil pump and all the main and rod bearings and still have low oil pressure. You'll be better served removing the engine and doing a rebuild.....or a rebuild light if you have a strict budget.
OK, that all said, if you want to try the pump replacement thing figure on a weekend. You have to raise the engine a whole lot more than three inches off it's mounts to get the pan out...especially if you have a 6-speed. You'll have to remove the starter and the y-pipe. If you want to change the bearings, you'll need a deep well 16mm socket to get the main caps off. Something almost everyone does is to have the pickup tack welded to the oil pump body...do it! Oh, some will tell you there is a kit that uses the oil pump cover bolts to hold on the pickup...that works too. Anyway, if you want to do this, post up...we'll give you a step-by-step...
02-12-2010, 01:35 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 132
What he said, I did not have oil pressure when I stopped due to a swinging pick up tube....when we took the pan off, the pickup fell with the pan. I put a new oil pump in my car and pan in the car due to my brother's intelligent thinking that it needed it. I think you just need to put a pickup tube back in the pump and have someone braze it to the pump so it cannot come out again.
Personally I would not check the bearings unless you think they are screwed...they have worn a certain way and when you put it back in, it could have a different tolerance wearing differently. I did not check mine when it was out, but my car also only had around 86k miles on it when it happened.
Personally I would not check the bearings unless you think they are screwed...they have worn a certain way and when you put it back in, it could have a different tolerance wearing differently. I did not check mine when it was out, but my car also only had around 86k miles on it when it happened.
02-12-2010, 01:43 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Kissimmee, Fl, USA
Posts: 1,942
What he said, I did not have oil pressure when I stopped due to a swinging pick up tube....when we took the pan off, the pickup fell with the pan. I put a new oil pump in my car and pan in the car due to my brother's intelligent thinking that it needed it. I think you just need to put a pickup tube back in the pump and have someone braze it to the pump so it cannot come out again.
Personally I would not check the bearings unless you think they are screwed...they have worn a certain way and when you put it back in, it could have a different tolerance wearing differently. I did not check mine when it was out, but my car also only had around 86k miles on it when it happened.
Personally I would not check the bearings unless you think they are screwed...they have worn a certain way and when you put it back in, it could have a different tolerance wearing differently. I did not check mine when it was out, but my car also only had around 86k miles on it when it happened.
I don't agree with your checking the bearings statement. Bearings aren't designed to wear...the bearing surface is a very soft metal that is designed to be sacrificial in the event somethng large and hard gets in there. The idea is that the bearings die before the crank gets ruined. Anyway, what the crank runs on is a layer of oil and there is no reason not to take a cap off and look/measure things while it is apart. To skip that part would certainly cause a lot of extra work if you guess wrong. If the oil film breaksdown for any reason, the bearings get wiped in mere seconds....
02-18-2010, 11:22 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Langley, BC Canada
Posts: 371
I have been researching this for over a year. Now that I have a fiance and a truck, I am selling the camaro..... sad day.... Anyways...
Here is the gauge info, and I drove it for about 6 months this way before she came off the road. I needed a truck for work.
Gauge tested as follows:
1,500 RPM = 13 psi
2,000 RPM = 22 psi
2,500 RPM = 26 psi
Haynes Calls for:
1,000 RPM = 6 psi
2,000 RPM = 18 psi
4,000 RPM = 24 psi
I have a newly installed mechanical gauge in the car so the readings can go lower than the gauge testing I did here. Thats where the 6PSI would come in.
If your interested in the history of this problem and some of the info I have gathered try reading on my car here... Oil Pressure Problems Thread
If you guys have more info, Im totally interested and listening. Oh and I do plan on checking the bearings by pulling the caps. Im not sure yet how that is done and if I can do it while checking and / or changing the oil pump.
As for the pickup falling off, would I hear a rattle in my oil pan if that was true?
Here is the gauge info, and I drove it for about 6 months this way before she came off the road. I needed a truck for work.
Gauge tested as follows:
1,500 RPM = 13 psi
2,000 RPM = 22 psi
2,500 RPM = 26 psi
Haynes Calls for:
1,000 RPM = 6 psi
2,000 RPM = 18 psi
4,000 RPM = 24 psi
I have a newly installed mechanical gauge in the car so the readings can go lower than the gauge testing I did here. Thats where the 6PSI would come in.
If your interested in the history of this problem and some of the info I have gathered try reading on my car here... Oil Pressure Problems Thread
If you guys have more info, Im totally interested and listening. Oh and I do plan on checking the bearings by pulling the caps. Im not sure yet how that is done and if I can do it while checking and / or changing the oil pump.
As for the pickup falling off, would I hear a rattle in my oil pan if that was true?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
danielbmx
Car Audio and Electronics
0
08-27-2002 11:11 PM