jpkalas

1996 Z28 M6

Any thoughts to the best hi-flow water pump around?

I know it's a ways away, but the hot Las Vegas summers take quite a toll on my cooling system, and I'd like to get it replaced before then, just to help the circulation of coolant. It would make my life a lot easier if I didn't have to worry about the temperature gauge as much!!

I appreciate it. Any other thoughts as to what would help keep the car cool would be helpful as well!!

SupersportLS1

You may have to watch it more as the highflow may cause leaks in weakspots

Rij1

Tune the fans to kick on at a lower temp, Change the thermostat to a 160*, Add water wetter of simular addative, Make sure there is no air in your cooling system.

bw_hunter

You have few options for water pumps for these cars. You have stock, which flows the most at high rpm and electric which flow less at peak.

I also don't know what weak spots could be uncovered by a flow system if a high flow pump existed....

Adding water wetter is a good choice. Run the minimum amount of antifreeze...no less than 25% antifreeze though.

Changing the thermostat should help but remember that the temp rating is where the valve opens, not the temp the coolant will be. Changing the fans on-off temps will help in traffic.

mzgp5x

My app is a 97ss 383 FI MM6 trans. I did alot to change the cooling system. I did not like the stock set-up with my mods. Here thay are...
Moved Be-cool rad forward. Took heat off front of engine.
Mez electric HD pump.
Two 12" fans run high speed all the time.
Use Evans NPG.
No thermostat. (Made my own bypass)
Runs just over 160*f in the summer (MI - 90 degees)
Runs less than 160*F in fall and spring.
I had to flash the PCM for this mod.
I'm satisfied now.
B.

RamAir95TA

Those cooling system modifications are very extensive and unnecessary for the OP. A FI system's cooling requires more attention that one that isn't FI, but still some of those mods are overkill.

Procharged94Lt1

Not letting the motor get to proper operating temp is not good either..

Reprogramming the fans would probably be sufficient for the OP, along with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water with some wetter thrown in too.

If you don't use your a/c pull that out as well as it will allow more airflow to the radiator.

bw_hunter

He lives in Vegas.....probably does use the AC.

jpkalas

So, to prevent exposing weak spots in the cooling system...just get a 160* thermostat and a water wetter? Like Royal Purple Ice or something? I have my fans running to a switch under the dash. With the 160* thermo, when should I turn them on? The 160* just means I get coolant flowing sooner than the stock thermostat yes?

bw_hunter

There aren't any weak spots in the cooling system that a high flow pump would expose...if there was a high flow pump available.

A 160oF thermostat open when the water temp reaches that temp. Once open the efficiency of the cooling system determines what the actual water temp will be. Additives like water wetter work by lowering the surface energy of the coolant allowing it to 'wet out' better on the system surfaces. This intimate contact helps heat transfer. With a properly functioning cooling syste, this should result in lower running temps. I say should as some people report no improvement at all. The other variable in the system is the heat capacity of the coolant itself. Water has a high heat capacity meaning it takes a lot of energy to heat it up. Typical coolants like ethylene glycol and propylene glycol have lower heat capacities. The ideal coolant for the system would be water...if we didn't have to worry about corrosion. The anti-freeze we add provides anti-freeze and ant-boilover protection and, importantly, corrosion inhibitors. Don't run without any antifreeze or you'll have long term issues. I live in Florida and can get away with 25% anti-freeze with ease and that's what I run, with water wetter. Temps, on the gauge, never get about 170F even in summer traffic. The PCM reading are about 180F, proving that you just can't trust the gauges in an F-body...LOL

Since you have a manually operated fan switch, I guess I would turn them on when you're stopped and turn them off when you get above 10mph. From that point on, airflow over the radiators should be adequate to keep the temps under control.

jpkalas

Worth it, then, to get a 160* thermostat? Or just be disciplined about the fan switch and add some water wetter for the summer? Or all three?

96capricemgr

reprogram the pcm for lower fan temps and fix the wiring unnecessarily screwed up for the manual fan switch.

jpkalas

The thermostat would be cheaper than a tune though, yeah?

bw_hunter

You need both....

mzgp5x

A good read... Cooling systems by Ray Bohacz, HP Books.
Availble @ Summit.
B.