Help me figure out the problem with this car...
#1
Help me figure out the problem with this car...
Last year, I picked up a 93 with a bad engine and I swapped a 94 engine in it. As soon as I got done with the install, I took it to the track and it did a best of:
2.006 60' (regular tires)
8.889 @ 79.19 1/8th
13.883 @ 98.40 MPH 1/4
That was on Oct 18th 2003
The car had a catback, cold air, 2400 stall, 3.23 gears, ls1 DS and my chip in it at the time.
Since then, I did a cam and headers. It dynoed 348 RWHP / 345 RWTQ in winter and 343/341 a few weeks ago. The horsepower and torque curves are pretty much ideal.
So I took it to the track again. Results:
2.020 60'
8.449 @ 85.67 MPH 1/8
13.012 @ 106.66 1/4
This was on 14 PSI slicks. No matter how well I heated them up, they never hooked better than 2.00 and everyone else seemed to have no problem hooking. (BTW, the car DID NOT spin or bog at all)
second run
2.018 60'
8.437 @ 85.67 MPH 1/8
13.012 @ 106.24 1/4
Third run was also 13.012!!! (maybe I should bracket race it? )
The "race" weight was 3605 #
Temperature 68*
Humidity 31%
Track elevation: 756 ft
Pressure in: 29.97
So I guess my question is... can anyone figure out why the car seemed to be down in power at the track by about 3 or so MPH before and after the cam?
I replaced the entire suspension and front brakes/knuckles/spindles. The only thing I can think of may be the tranny or the rear, but the tranny shows no signs of slipping whatsoever. It is the original tranny in this car which had 130K miles but shifts perfect. Also, I shifted it manually at the track ~ 6600-6700.
2.006 60' (regular tires)
8.889 @ 79.19 1/8th
13.883 @ 98.40 MPH 1/4
That was on Oct 18th 2003
The car had a catback, cold air, 2400 stall, 3.23 gears, ls1 DS and my chip in it at the time.
Since then, I did a cam and headers. It dynoed 348 RWHP / 345 RWTQ in winter and 343/341 a few weeks ago. The horsepower and torque curves are pretty much ideal.
So I took it to the track again. Results:
2.020 60'
8.449 @ 85.67 MPH 1/8
13.012 @ 106.66 1/4
This was on 14 PSI slicks. No matter how well I heated them up, they never hooked better than 2.00 and everyone else seemed to have no problem hooking. (BTW, the car DID NOT spin or bog at all)
second run
2.018 60'
8.437 @ 85.67 MPH 1/8
13.012 @ 106.24 1/4
Third run was also 13.012!!! (maybe I should bracket race it? )
The "race" weight was 3605 #
Temperature 68*
Humidity 31%
Track elevation: 756 ft
Pressure in: 29.97
So I guess my question is... can anyone figure out why the car seemed to be down in power at the track by about 3 or so MPH before and after the cam?
I replaced the entire suspension and front brakes/knuckles/spindles. The only thing I can think of may be the tranny or the rear, but the tranny shows no signs of slipping whatsoever. It is the original tranny in this car which had 130K miles but shifts perfect. Also, I shifted it manually at the track ~ 6600-6700.
Last edited by madwolf; 10-04-2004 at 09:50 AM.
#4
Re: Help me figure out the problem with this car...
I have a 233/239 and hooker LTs. The peak power of the cam is ~6200 and it stays pretty much there past 6200...so no, it is not too high. If I shift lower, the MPH will go down. My brother in law managed to get a 1.999 60' and a 13.2 with stock shift points (he let the car shift), but his MPH was only about 103.
I think I know what the problem is. After I bought the car, I discovered that it has been hit in the back on the driver side. There was some frame damage but it was close to the bumper... (past the wheels)
I guess since it's not hooking right on slicks, it is possible that the damage may be the cause. (but then why is it not showing up on the dyno?)
I think I'll just find a body with a 6 speed in it and swap over the engine with the front suspension...
I think I know what the problem is. After I bought the car, I discovered that it has been hit in the back on the driver side. There was some frame damage but it was close to the bumper... (past the wheels)
I guess since it's not hooking right on slicks, it is possible that the damage may be the cause. (but then why is it not showing up on the dyno?)
I think I'll just find a body with a 6 speed in it and swap over the engine with the front suspension...
#5
Re: Help me figure out the problem with this car...
That low tire pressure ups the rolling resistance quite a bit. I have ran on M/T ET streets and ran like 115, but when you switch over to drag radials I picked up a few mph. this may be your difference. But of course when I run the E.T. Streets my 60 foot time is about 4 tenths better...lol
#6
Re: Help me figure out the problem with this car...
What kind of stall is in it?
Ive seen several of them "baloon" internally and still run fine. More common on a converter from companies like transStar or SLP, who just take a stock stall and restall it. Not only are you stuck with a stock STR, the STR doesnt ever hit like it should getting you a good launch. Personally i think 2400 is a tad too low too, even with a smaller cam like (i think i remember seeing) you have.
That and in combo of only 323s, could be lots of your launching troubles. Why not get some gear in her
Ive seen several of them "baloon" internally and still run fine. More common on a converter from companies like transStar or SLP, who just take a stock stall and restall it. Not only are you stuck with a stock STR, the STR doesnt ever hit like it should getting you a good launch. Personally i think 2400 is a tad too low too, even with a smaller cam like (i think i remember seeing) you have.
That and in combo of only 323s, could be lots of your launching troubles. Why not get some gear in her
Last edited by atljar; 10-04-2004 at 10:22 AM.
#7
Re: Help me figure out the problem with this car...
It's a 2400 SLP stall. It does look 100% like the stock stall only different color. Do you really think a 2800-3200 VIG would make that much of a difference? I think I'll just go with a 6 speed anyway... I've had one before and it sure was a heck of a lot more fun that this auto is.
As for the MTs, I tried them at 16 PSI and they did not hook as well as they did at 14. I also tried running on stock tires and the 60' was like 2.2 but the MPH was about the same.
As for the MTs, I tried them at 16 PSI and they did not hook as well as they did at 14. I also tried running on stock tires and the 60' was like 2.2 but the MPH was about the same.
#8
Re: Help me figure out the problem with this car...
Originally Posted by madwolf
It's a 2400 SLP stall. It does look 100% like the stock stall only different color. Do you really think a 2800 VIG would make that much of a difference? I think I'll just go with a 6 speed anyway... I've had one before and it sure was a heck of a lot more fun that this auto is.
Inmy old 93 the first converter I had was a TCI 2500 lock-up, the best 60 foot I could manage with it was a 1.89, I switched to a vigilante and the first time I launched with the same car, no other changes was a 1.74!!! I also gained from a 13.4 to a 12.8 !!!
#9
Re: Help me figure out the problem with this car...
Weird.... you could not have improved your ET by 0.6 seconds from just a 0.15 gain in the 60'. Does a converter have any other effect other than a better 60 by placing you deeper in your powerband? Would the higher STR improve MPH?
#10
Re: Help me figure out the problem with this car...
Originally Posted by madwolf
It's a 2400 SLP stall. It does look 100% like the stock stall only different color. Do you really think a 2800-3200 VIG would make that much of a difference? I think I'll just go with a 6 speed anyway... I've had one before and it sure was a heck of a lot more fun that this auto is.
As for the MTs, I tried them at 16 PSI and they did not hook as well as they did at 14. I also tried running on stock tires and the 60' was like 2.2 but the MPH was about the same.
As for the MTs, I tried them at 16 PSI and they did not hook as well as they did at 14. I also tried running on stock tires and the 60' was like 2.2 but the MPH was about the same.
The thing if you go 6 speed... you are going to need steeper rear gears. Expect to put in a 9 inch or 12 bolt, and still need a clutch/tranny/hydrolics/pedal etc etc. The swap is fun, but will cost a WHOLE WHOLE lot more than a $700 vig.
#11
Re: Help me figure out the problem with this car...
On the STR helping power, yes. Havent really explaned this...so here we go....
STR = Stall Torque Ratio
Take the stall speed (lets say 3000 rpms). At that RPM, find your torque readings, and multiply that by the STR number. At that given RPM, thats how much torque the stall will put down (reason you see the huge dyno spikes with good stalls).
So if you have a 1:1 or close to it like a stock convertor, you will be leaving the line with about 330 (?) RWTQ. Put a vig in there and you are suddenly leaving with over 800 RWTQ. That will shake things up a bit
STR = Stall Torque Ratio
Take the stall speed (lets say 3000 rpms). At that RPM, find your torque readings, and multiply that by the STR number. At that given RPM, thats how much torque the stall will put down (reason you see the huge dyno spikes with good stalls).
So if you have a 1:1 or close to it like a stock convertor, you will be leaving the line with about 330 (?) RWTQ. Put a vig in there and you are suddenly leaving with over 800 RWTQ. That will shake things up a bit
#12
Re: Help me figure out the problem with this car...
If I swap, I will swap this engine and the k-member with the suspension on a 6 speed body. It will be easier for me to do this since I've changed to LS1 brakes and replaced all 4 ball joints on this k-member (also did springs and shocks), plus I won't need a hoist. I am aware of the gears and 12 bolt though.
I am still confused about a how a different stall could improve the MPH. The STR only works on the launch.. it does not affect the run other than that. So do you think the it will improve the MPH by pretty much a bigger kick in the butt?
I am still confused about a how a different stall could improve the MPH. The STR only works on the launch.. it does not affect the run other than that. So do you think the it will improve the MPH by pretty much a bigger kick in the butt?
#13
Re: Help me figure out the problem with this car...
Originally Posted by madwolf
So do you think the it will improve the MPH by pretty much a bigger kick in the butt?
Apples to oranges comparison here, but dropping the clutch at 4k in my car, compared to an all out 6k launch, i gained about 2.5 mph consistantly, as well as better 60's.
#14
Re: Help me figure out the problem with this car...
Originally Posted by atljar
On the STR helping power, yes. Havent really explaned this...so here we go....
STR = Stall Torque Ratio
Take the stall speed (lets say 3000 rpms). At that RPM, find your torque readings, and multiply that by the STR number. At that given RPM, thats how much torque the stall will put down (reason you see the huge dyno spikes with good stalls).
So if you have a 1:1 or close to it like a stock convertor, you will be leaving the line with about 330 (?) RWTQ. Put a vig in there and you are suddenly leaving with over 800 RWTQ. That will shake things up a bit
STR = Stall Torque Ratio
Take the stall speed (lets say 3000 rpms). At that RPM, find your torque readings, and multiply that by the STR number. At that given RPM, thats how much torque the stall will put down (reason you see the huge dyno spikes with good stalls).
So if you have a 1:1 or close to it like a stock convertor, you will be leaving the line with about 330 (?) RWTQ. Put a vig in there and you are suddenly leaving with over 800 RWTQ. That will shake things up a bit
At the same time though, shouldn't I be able to pull a better than 1.999 60' on slicks with a 2400 SLP and 3.23 gears?
#15
Re: Help me figure out the problem with this car...
Originally Posted by madwolf
At the same time though, shouldn't I be able to pull a better than 1.999 60' on slicks with a 2400 SLP and 3.23 gears?