Help me decide how to build this motor...
#1
Help me decide how to build this motor...
I already posted this on LS1tech but I know there's usually more LT1 activity on here.
I was planning on a budget build and just getting the extra short block in my garage rebuilt, but I found a built short block locally from a fellow member and got a great deal on it. Thanks again cycletech. Now I'm trying to decide how I want to build this.
It's a never ran rebuilt zero decked and balanced 355 short block with 4 bolt mains, forged Icon flat top pistons, forged eagle I beam rods, a 10/10 stock crank, has Clevite h rod and main bearings, pistons and bearings have been coated by polydyn. ARP bolts and studs everywhere. Also has double roller timing chain by cloyes. There's a big carb cam in it now, not sure of the specs but I'll sell it after I pull it since I'm staying with EFI.
I was going to to have get a custom grind cam from LE and run it with stock heads and put LE2s on it later, but now I'm having second thoughts since this block is built so stout. The guy said he was building it to spin up to 7k Rpms but keep it NA. I'm not planning on spinning it up that high.
The cam LE recommended is 227/235 .565/.579 110 LSA cam. He said that it will pull to 6300 or so and retain my bottom end power. He said it's similar to the 503 under 2000 but with more hp/tq at 2500 and up. I currently have a 2400 stall, I know it's small but I wasn't planning on buying a new one since it's pretty new. LE said with that cam and stall it should make pretty good power with stock heads.
Whats some recommendations on how to build this? I'm not trying break the bank on this build and it can be a slow build. Wondering if I should wait and do the heads or run it with stock heads now. At least I'll have a good foundation to work with. The car is staying NA. It will be street driven alot with the occasional track visit. Really just a fun street car. I wanted to retain the stock water pump since it only have about 10k on it, but since it already has a double roller should I use it? I know the ED timing sets are $$ or should I just use a stock replacement set? Are LS7 lifters a good choice? I've read that some ppl are having problems with them. What about oil pumps? The guy threw in a new stock replacement with pickup. Should I get the GM white spring to go with it or not worry about it. I know I want High pressure, not high volume. He also threw in a new scat flexplate, and a ATI super damper. Not sure if I should run those or not. I know this is long but I just want to do it right the 1st time.
I was planning on a budget build and just getting the extra short block in my garage rebuilt, but I found a built short block locally from a fellow member and got a great deal on it. Thanks again cycletech. Now I'm trying to decide how I want to build this.
It's a never ran rebuilt zero decked and balanced 355 short block with 4 bolt mains, forged Icon flat top pistons, forged eagle I beam rods, a 10/10 stock crank, has Clevite h rod and main bearings, pistons and bearings have been coated by polydyn. ARP bolts and studs everywhere. Also has double roller timing chain by cloyes. There's a big carb cam in it now, not sure of the specs but I'll sell it after I pull it since I'm staying with EFI.
I was going to to have get a custom grind cam from LE and run it with stock heads and put LE2s on it later, but now I'm having second thoughts since this block is built so stout. The guy said he was building it to spin up to 7k Rpms but keep it NA. I'm not planning on spinning it up that high.
The cam LE recommended is 227/235 .565/.579 110 LSA cam. He said that it will pull to 6300 or so and retain my bottom end power. He said it's similar to the 503 under 2000 but with more hp/tq at 2500 and up. I currently have a 2400 stall, I know it's small but I wasn't planning on buying a new one since it's pretty new. LE said with that cam and stall it should make pretty good power with stock heads.
Whats some recommendations on how to build this? I'm not trying break the bank on this build and it can be a slow build. Wondering if I should wait and do the heads or run it with stock heads now. At least I'll have a good foundation to work with. The car is staying NA. It will be street driven alot with the occasional track visit. Really just a fun street car. I wanted to retain the stock water pump since it only have about 10k on it, but since it already has a double roller should I use it? I know the ED timing sets are $$ or should I just use a stock replacement set? Are LS7 lifters a good choice? I've read that some ppl are having problems with them. What about oil pumps? The guy threw in a new stock replacement with pickup. Should I get the GM white spring to go with it or not worry about it. I know I want High pressure, not high volume. He also threw in a new scat flexplate, and a ATI super damper. Not sure if I should run those or not. I know this is long but I just want to do it right the 1st time.
#2
Re: Help me decide how to build this motor...
If you want to daily drive it and retain good manners, I'd use a smaller cam than a 227/235 on a 110LSA, that's a lot of overlap for a daily driver....the durations would be ok if you had it ground on a 113 or so.
Most people I have found end up much happier in the long run with a cam that's smaller than they think they need if it's a street driven car.
As for the timing chain, if you want to retain the factory pump drive, I have a low mile Extreme Duty timing set I could sell for a significant discount, PM me if you want it.
For the oil pump get a 10554 or 10552 melling, it will come with the steel pump drive. Make sure to put in a new drive that bolts into the valley, they're known to crack with age.
Get the heads ported, it's well worth the investment now vs. later.
Lifter problems are simply the manifestation of valve train control problems 95% of the time, people just blame the lifters because that's the part that actually fails and they don't know any better.
Most people I have found end up much happier in the long run with a cam that's smaller than they think they need if it's a street driven car.
As for the timing chain, if you want to retain the factory pump drive, I have a low mile Extreme Duty timing set I could sell for a significant discount, PM me if you want it.
For the oil pump get a 10554 or 10552 melling, it will come with the steel pump drive. Make sure to put in a new drive that bolts into the valley, they're known to crack with age.
Get the heads ported, it's well worth the investment now vs. later.
Lifter problems are simply the manifestation of valve train control problems 95% of the time, people just blame the lifters because that's the part that actually fails and they don't know any better.
Last edited by MachinistOne; 04-18-2014 at 11:01 PM.
#3
Re: Help me decide how to build this motor...
I had a custom grind cam (in my sig) and just put in a Comp 306. I love it. I have 6 spd and 4.10 and it's perfect.
Everything I've ever read about drivability and these cams is false.
Everything I've ever read about drivability and these cams is false.
#4
Re: Help me decide how to build this motor...
I'm not one of those people that can give you a ton of technical advice ...
but here's my 2¢ buy what makes you happy don't settle for less !!
if its out of your price range that just means your going to have to wait a little longer and save
up some more cash...... I second the head porting ...... just make sure you paint it up so it looks nice pretty .....and post some pictures of your creation !!
but here's my 2¢ buy what makes you happy don't settle for less !!
if its out of your price range that just means your going to have to wait a little longer and save
up some more cash...... I second the head porting ...... just make sure you paint it up so it looks nice pretty .....and post some pictures of your creation !!
Last edited by parkers Z28; 04-20-2014 at 08:32 PM.
#5
Re: Help me decide how to build this motor...
You guys are right. I might as well save up a little longer and get the heads ported. Just build it all at the same time.
I pulled the cam and had comp check the grind. It is a 248/254 cam. If anyone needs a brand new cam or know someone that needs one pm me. I have no use for it. Way too big for my plans.
I pulled the cam and had comp check the grind. It is a 248/254 cam. If anyone needs a brand new cam or know someone that needs one pm me. I have no use for it. Way too big for my plans.
#6
Re: Help me decide how to build this motor...
You guys are right. I might as well save up a little longer and get the heads ported. Just build it all at the same time.
I pulled the cam and had comp check the grind. It is a 248/254 cam. If anyone needs a brand new cam or know someone that needs one pm me. I have no use for it. Way too big for my plans.
I pulled the cam and had comp check the grind. It is a 248/254 cam. If anyone needs a brand new cam or know someone that needs one pm me. I have no use for it. Way too big for my plans.
Let me know.
Last edited by 97 6SPEED Z; 04-23-2014 at 07:23 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
350350
Fuel and Ignition
14
08-11-2015 12:03 PM
CARiD
2010 - 2015 Camaro Interior, Exterior, Paint & Body, Electronics/Car Audio
0
07-07-2015 08:19 AM