Heads and cam build
#1
Heads and cam build
I have a 97 z28 m6 with a stock lt1 except for a cat back. It has 99k miles on it. Recently just put a Delphi fuel pump, McLeod clutch, msd opti, and new wires and plugs. I'm looking to do heads and a cam soon (very interested in Elliot port works) just want some opinions on what Supporting mods to do. Also opinions on what heads packages are the best. I already have pacesetter lt's and ory pipe. So that being said give me your opinions!
#2
Re: Heads and cam build
Talk with Lloyd on your goals. He will spec a H/C package. Good guy to deal with, knows his stuff
If you have a automatic you should get a higher stall TC for the new cam
while doing the swap replace the spring in the oil pump with the GM white spring. Get a steel oil pump drive shaft. ARP, Miloden, Mellig all make them
1:6 NSA RR 7/16 for your new heads. Comp Ultra Mag are good. Hardened .080 thick wall PR of 7.xxx length (you will need to measure). Guide plates. ARP 7/16 studs
and a PCM tune
If you have a automatic you should get a higher stall TC for the new cam
while doing the swap replace the spring in the oil pump with the GM white spring. Get a steel oil pump drive shaft. ARP, Miloden, Mellig all make them
1:6 NSA RR 7/16 for your new heads. Comp Ultra Mag are good. Hardened .080 thick wall PR of 7.xxx length (you will need to measure). Guide plates. ARP 7/16 studs
and a PCM tune
#3
Re: Heads and cam build
You need to get the air in:
-cold air intake
-52mm throttle body (minimum)
-intake ported with heads
Get the exhaust out:
-you already have the LT headers
-appears you have a catback, hopefully a quality unit with at least a 3" mandrel bent intermediate pipe.
Make sure you have enough fuel:
-larger injectors, 32 - 42 #/HR depending on flywheel HP
-upgraded fuel pump, typically a 255LPH Walbro or equivalent.
Get the engine to run correctly:
-mail-order tune as a minimum, dyno tune if available locally
Make sure the power reaches the ground:
-upgraded clutch, unless the McLeod is a premium unit
-4.10 gears
-upgraded LCA's, panhard bar, torque arm
-sticky tires
Say a prayer, and start saving up....
-the weak stock 10-bolt rear axle assembly does not live long behind a 450-500(flywheel)HP engine, a grabby clutch, 4.10's and sticky tires.
"what heads packages are best"..... not sure what you mean. The best head/cam package will be the one that makes the power you are looking for, within your budget, neither of which you have mentioned. Lloyd Elliott details the HP level and the costs for his various packages.
-cold air intake
-52mm throttle body (minimum)
-intake ported with heads
Get the exhaust out:
-you already have the LT headers
-appears you have a catback, hopefully a quality unit with at least a 3" mandrel bent intermediate pipe.
Make sure you have enough fuel:
-larger injectors, 32 - 42 #/HR depending on flywheel HP
-upgraded fuel pump, typically a 255LPH Walbro or equivalent.
Get the engine to run correctly:
-mail-order tune as a minimum, dyno tune if available locally
Make sure the power reaches the ground:
-upgraded clutch, unless the McLeod is a premium unit
-4.10 gears
-upgraded LCA's, panhard bar, torque arm
-sticky tires
Say a prayer, and start saving up....
-the weak stock 10-bolt rear axle assembly does not live long behind a 450-500(flywheel)HP engine, a grabby clutch, 4.10's and sticky tires.
"what heads packages are best"..... not sure what you mean. The best head/cam package will be the one that makes the power you are looking for, within your budget, neither of which you have mentioned. Lloyd Elliott details the HP level and the costs for his various packages.
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