Comp R's
#1
Comp R's
Guys.... This is my last post about these things.
My adivce at this time is to not use the NEWER Comp R's because they COULD fail. They might not but it's not worth the headache for you OR for me with all the questions.
Just run OEM or an aftermarket lifter. My recomendation is Morel.
By newer Comp R's I'm talking about the style that doesn't have a C clip to retain the plunger in the top of the lifter. I will see if I can get some links to some pics in here for you so you can tell what the bad ones look like.
Stop asking questions on why they fail... I've explained this numerous times and nobody else is really giving out advice or explainations on these things so lets let sleeping dogs lie. The search function is your friend. My point is IT DOESN'T MATTER WHY, what matters IF they fail or not. PERIOD. I've given my best guess, i've yet to see any other explaintion that I agree with so untill I see another one to my satisfaction, lets just assume the old man and I are correct.
If you have them in your motor now, if they are still working fine, great! Go to sleep at night happy and think about the playmate of the month or whatever your thing is.... DON'T worry about them. If you do have a problem you will most likely have increased valvetrain noise WHEN something goes wrong and they usually don't cause any problems, at most a bent pushrod.... IF you can't sleep at night. Yank the valve covers and intake and put the OEM ones back in. Most times the failures happen extremely fast in a few hundred or thousand miles. So if you have 5000miles on a set and they are good, nothing is going to happen to the set you have. Otherwise my advice would be to get the OEM ones back in there or get a set of OEM replacements from Comp, Crane or one of the sponsors. A little bit of BS now might save your motor.
If you do have them and you have a problem with them, or had one. Comp should take them back and replace them with another set OR a set of OEM replacements. IF you have trouble with this work with who you bought your lifters from and they should help you with it. If yours are not broken, that's what ebay is for, people buy everything off of ebay.
Good luck.
Bret
My adivce at this time is to not use the NEWER Comp R's because they COULD fail. They might not but it's not worth the headache for you OR for me with all the questions.
Just run OEM or an aftermarket lifter. My recomendation is Morel.
By newer Comp R's I'm talking about the style that doesn't have a C clip to retain the plunger in the top of the lifter. I will see if I can get some links to some pics in here for you so you can tell what the bad ones look like.
Stop asking questions on why they fail... I've explained this numerous times and nobody else is really giving out advice or explainations on these things so lets let sleeping dogs lie. The search function is your friend. My point is IT DOESN'T MATTER WHY, what matters IF they fail or not. PERIOD. I've given my best guess, i've yet to see any other explaintion that I agree with so untill I see another one to my satisfaction, lets just assume the old man and I are correct.
If you have them in your motor now, if they are still working fine, great! Go to sleep at night happy and think about the playmate of the month or whatever your thing is.... DON'T worry about them. If you do have a problem you will most likely have increased valvetrain noise WHEN something goes wrong and they usually don't cause any problems, at most a bent pushrod.... IF you can't sleep at night. Yank the valve covers and intake and put the OEM ones back in. Most times the failures happen extremely fast in a few hundred or thousand miles. So if you have 5000miles on a set and they are good, nothing is going to happen to the set you have. Otherwise my advice would be to get the OEM ones back in there or get a set of OEM replacements from Comp, Crane or one of the sponsors. A little bit of BS now might save your motor.
If you do have them and you have a problem with them, or had one. Comp should take them back and replace them with another set OR a set of OEM replacements. IF you have trouble with this work with who you bought your lifters from and they should help you with it. If yours are not broken, that's what ebay is for, people buy everything off of ebay.
Good luck.
Bret
#2
Re: Comp R's
I can add a few pics. First, an unfailed Comp R vs stock, the Comp R on the right:
http://www.jonaadland.com/NewPics4/CompRStock.JPG
As you can see, the retaining clip is flat and very thin on the Comp R.
Here's how properly adjusted lifters should look:
http://www.jonaadland.com/NewPics4/No1CylCompRs.JPG
After the retaining clip fails, you may or may not notice more noise. Mine were always noisy. So what do you do? Re-adjust them. This is what happens when you re-adjust them (remember, very little preload) after a retaining clip has failed:
http://www.jonaadland.com/NewPics4/No2CylCompRs.JPG
Since it has no retaining clip, when you adjust it to zero preload you obviously have a longer way to go since the retaining clip isn't there to stop the plunger. This is a good way to get a clue if any of yours have failed. Simply re-adjust your valves like you're suposed to. Now, look closely at your rockers and their nuts relative to the tops of the studs. If you notice some rockers are much higher than the others--their nuts are significantly closer to the tops of the studs than the rest, you can be pretty sure you have some that have failed. No, your pushrods aren't growing.
http://www.jonaadland.com/NewPics4/CompRs1.JPG
http://www.jonaadland.com/NewPics4/CompRs2.JPG
The good news is this doesn't mean catastrophic failure of the engine the instant it happens. I ran the **** out of mine for a long time with those broken lifters. I replaced them with the stock ones (which worked flawlessly) and ran the **** out of the engine for a long time after.
http://www.jonaadland.com/NewPics4/CompRStock.JPG
As you can see, the retaining clip is flat and very thin on the Comp R.
Here's how properly adjusted lifters should look:
http://www.jonaadland.com/NewPics4/No1CylCompRs.JPG
After the retaining clip fails, you may or may not notice more noise. Mine were always noisy. So what do you do? Re-adjust them. This is what happens when you re-adjust them (remember, very little preload) after a retaining clip has failed:
http://www.jonaadland.com/NewPics4/No2CylCompRs.JPG
Since it has no retaining clip, when you adjust it to zero preload you obviously have a longer way to go since the retaining clip isn't there to stop the plunger. This is a good way to get a clue if any of yours have failed. Simply re-adjust your valves like you're suposed to. Now, look closely at your rockers and their nuts relative to the tops of the studs. If you notice some rockers are much higher than the others--their nuts are significantly closer to the tops of the studs than the rest, you can be pretty sure you have some that have failed. No, your pushrods aren't growing.
http://www.jonaadland.com/NewPics4/CompRs1.JPG
http://www.jonaadland.com/NewPics4/CompRs2.JPG
The good news is this doesn't mean catastrophic failure of the engine the instant it happens. I ran the **** out of mine for a long time with those broken lifters. I replaced them with the stock ones (which worked flawlessly) and ran the **** out of the engine for a long time after.
Last edited by Jon A; 09-03-2005 at 02:53 AM.
#3
Re: Comp R's
Jon A, thanks for the pic's, I'll have to check mine when I switch intake manifolds. So far though no reason to believe anything is wrong with them, other than they are a pain to adjust.
#4
Re: Comp R's
Heres a jumbo pic of the retaining clips i pulled out of my oil pan drain hole. If you find some of these: http://img105.imageshack.us/img105/7398/whoknows2uc.jpg
Your comp Rs are shot.
Your comp Rs are shot.
#5
Re: Comp R's
....that is why that happened.....all I can say.
I had one fail and it cost me 45$ shipped to replace it from comp, they didnt say anything about this. Last time I went to track w/ freshly adjusted RRs I felt something give out... time to check these things.
Hopefully that wasnt the cause... 1.5mph off tho is significant to me (w/ same 60')
I had one fail and it cost me 45$ shipped to replace it from comp, they didnt say anything about this. Last time I went to track w/ freshly adjusted RRs I felt something give out... time to check these things.
Hopefully that wasnt the cause... 1.5mph off tho is significant to me (w/ same 60')
#6
Re: Comp R's
Ugh, wonder which ones I have in my car. Can't really tell from the pic...
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...ld/lifters.jpg
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...ld/lifters.jpg
Last edited by Dave88LX; 09-04-2005 at 07:13 PM.
#8
Re: Comp R's
You guys need to look into the Morel's. I just ditched My Comp R's, after having only 1 clip break in 7K miles, and that was more than enough for me to get rid of them. The Morels blow away the R's, and actually have a snap ring to hold them together. The body is longer for smaller base circle cams, and are built for aggressive hydraulic roller cams with wild lobes. A little pricy, but WELL worth it. I just upgraded to Morels, and Jesel SS rockers. The motor really seems to like that combo. I dont understand why Comp wont just have the lifters machined to accept a snap ring, and they would have a kick *** lifter for a decent price.
Nick
Nick
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Comp R's
Originally Posted by Valkyn71
Heres a jumbo pic of the retaining clips i pulled out of my oil pan drain hole. If you find some of these: http://img105.imageshack.us/img105/7398/whoknows2uc.jpg
Your comp Rs are shot.
Your comp Rs are shot.
#11
Re: Comp R's
Originally Posted by Dave88LX
Ugh, wonder which ones I have in my car. Can't really tell from the pic...
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...ld/lifters.jpg
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...ld/lifters.jpg