Tj.Rafferty

Alright I bought this car as a project and expected issues here and there.

Anyways
At first I got the Security light after I installed a new steering column, and I assumed it was the resistor in the key. I was right, bypassed that part of the VATS system and Security light is gone.

Now I go to try and start it and I don't get a crank. Just the "Check Gauges" light comes on, and the CEL is already on.

I do get power to the starter, ignition switch etc. Went through a ton of post about this same issue. Unfortunately they ended up being dead before OP posted a working solution.

I did download the Scan9495 Program and looking for a USB cord for it now.
But until then I need some help/suggestions on where to look.

Anyone have places to start looking?
I was thinking the TDR bypass, but wasn't completely sure if the Purple or the Yellow/Black wire is the one that needed to be grounded.

Anyways.. Any ideas so I can start doing my interior and front end swap?

Tj.Rafferty

Forgot to add, I did check the wiring and the connectors going to the steering column.
I even took the column out of my 94 3.4 knowing everything works perfectly, just no luck with it in the Z28.

And yes the Security light comes on with initial key in "start" then goes away
All dash lights come on, gauges work

I've gone through all pages with the search feature, keywords used "Z28 wont crank"

Tj.Rafferty

Alright last update of the night, see if this narrows down the issue.

I left the key in the On/Start position and connected the battery.
With this I can hear the fuel pass through the injectors, and the starter click and all.

So I'm hoping someone can give me a hand so I can get this on the road where it belongs

Injuneer

If I understand this correctly,everything was fine until you changed the steering column, which would include changing out the ignition switch. And you changed no other parts related to the engine or specifically the starter. Is this correct?

After you changed out the column, and bypassed the key resistor, when you turn the key to "run" all the normal things happen - dash lights come one, fuel pump primes. Then when you turn the key to "start" the starter does not engage.

There have been a lot of problems reported with the ignition switch as these car age, including melted contacts, etc. Appears you actually tried two different columns, the new one and the one out of your V6, so that would make a problem with the ignition switch unlikely, unless it was a damaged contact on the harness connector.

This part is a bit unclear:

"on" ("run") and "start" are two different positions. In "run" the fuel pump would prime for a couple seconds, but the starter should not do anything. In "start" then, you are indicating that somehow by holding the key in the "start" and then connecting the battery, the starter clicks. Is that the sound of the starter clicking, and then doing nothing, or is that the sound of the theft deterrent relay clicking?

Have you reviewed the 1995 factory wiring diagram, available on Shoebox's website?

http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_95.jpg

Tj.Rafferty

Yes, I swapped the steering columns knowing the V6 works perfectly as it should. All the normal lights and functions come on with the turn of the key to the "on position". So yes, I've ruled out the starter switch, and the key key portion of the VATS system.
So when I turn it to "start" the only thing that happens is the ABS Inop, and Brake lights come on, then shortly go away.

Good point on key position my mistake. I kept it in the on position, connected the battery and I can hear the fuel pump prime, and at one point the injectors sprayed into the manifold.
The "Click" I can hear I want to say it with a 99% certainty that it was the starter. It's that unmistakable click of the starter teeth hitting the flywheel. Then nothing.
Not too sure on the TDR clicking, I couldn't hear it outside of the car and I don't hear it inside the car either.
At this point I'm thinking Neutral safety switch?

Yes I've looked at the diagram, I've looked at a ton of them

shoebox

If you are getting +12v to the starter on the purple wire in the start position, then your problem is the starter, your power cables or you don't have enough power in the battery. Or you might have a meshing problem with the starter gear (but it would probably grind-not click).

Whatever you heard you thought was injectors is not. They don't operate unless the engine is cranking or running.

Injuneer

If it powers up correctly in the "run" position, that does not mean the ignition switch, or the connector isn't a problem. When you turn the key to "start" you engage a whole different set of contacts in the switch, and power up a different wire connected to the switch. That is clearly shown in the wiring diagram.

Tj.Rafferty

I thought I would have ruled out the starter switch with the install of the other steering column?

I can look at the connectors and nothing is burned up, loose or anything of that nature.

Shoebox:
I'll have a buddy come over and have him switch it to the run position for me and double check the voltage at the starter cables

Injuneer

I've run out of ideas. Seems like a strange coincidence that you would remove/replace the steering column, and the starter would fail while you were doing that. I was focusing on the connector, because I already acknowledged that the switch was probably good since you had also substituted a known good column/switch. But I wanted to point out that there still could be a problem with the yellow wire that is used when the switch is in the "start" position. That wire is not ruled out by the fact that all the dash lights come on when the key is in the "run" position.

But if you don't agree with that logic, don't use it. I'll stop annoying you.

Tj.Rafferty

No, Sorry I'm on a limited amount of sleep so I just misunderstood you is all.
I'm assuming I can hook a voltmeter to that specific wire, turn the key to "start" and see if it's getting the correct voltage?
Hooked up a brand new battery, so that aspect isn't an issue (figured I'd get it out of the way)
But there is a "Click" or something coming from under the dash..

Tj.Rafferty

Alright, I'll sound like an idiot and seem like one for this question.. but does it matter if the ignition switch is out of an auto or manual? Or do they both work the same for both set-ups?

JakeRobb

The clicking sound you hear is likely the starter solenoid, not the gear engaging the flywheel. When you hear the click but no crank, it indicates one of two things: insufficient power from the battery or bad starter motor and/or wiring.

If you're lucky, it's the battery and you can get it running with a jump start. Try that first. If not, get the battery load tested. AutoZone has a machine that will do this automatically, for free. Just putting a regular volt meter on the battery is not sufficient -- you need to know if it can deliver several hundred amps without too much voltage drop. Most good batteries will last 6-8 years, but I've seen them fail in two.

If the battery is bad, get your alternator checked too. AutoZone has that machine too. Sometimes a bad alternator will cause a bad battery.

If the battery and alternator are fine, then it's time to investigate the bad starter issue.

Sometimes, a bad starter motor will go if you whack it with a hammer while trying to start. Get a buddy to turn the key while you crawl underneath. While he turns the key, hit it hard, but not hard enough to dent it. This doesn't rule anything out if it doesn't work, but if it does work then you know you need a new starter.

timnfxr

The AC Delco ignition switch part numbers for the manual and auto are different.

Tj.Rafferty

I know that's why I asked that question because comparing the two on the columns they look exactly the same

Tj.Rafferty

Had the alternator check at autozone and it's fine, same with the battery. It's about 6months old if that and I pulled it out of the bitchclipse

Unfortunately I don't have anyone to give me a hand for a few days and I'm inpatient. So I'll try removing the Y-Pipe and the starter and have that tested next. If the starter is ok, then I'm assuming it's somewhere in between the starter and ignition. Then I'll have to wait for someone to give me a hand with it