smithbrother

I have a LT-1 1995 engine. I see there is a 3/8" tube coming from the throttle body at front of engine. I have this engine in a 1941 Buick, so it doesn't have a steam tank.

Should I run a hose from that tube to and into the upper radiator hose so water/anti-freeze can flow thru the body? It was blocked off with a short hose and plug, but I don't feel that is proper way to circulate water thru the throttle body.

Thank You for your help.

Dale in Indy

Injuneer

Moving to "LT1 Based Engine Tech". New Member Intro is not for tech questions.

This slows the steam pipe configuration for the 95.

Courtesy of Shoebox

http://shbox.com/1/95-97_hoses.jpg

Coolant/steam/air flows from the back of the heads, into the passenger side of the throttle body lower plate, out the driver side of the plate, and into a connection on the radiator below the fill cap. Inside the radiator, there is supposedly some sort of liquid/vapor separator.

Obviously, you don't have the radiator connection. And you do NOT need to run coolant through the throttle body. That was done to prevent "throttle body icing" in very cold weather. Unless you live somewhere north of the Arctic Circle, you do not need it. Almost everyone does the throttle body bypass, and dyno proven to pick up 6 HP, by reducing the temp of the throttle body.

Do the bypass:

Courtesy of Shoebox

http://shbox.com/1/tb_bypass.jpg

Then run the end of hose #5 into the coolant return line #14.

Or run a new length of hose from the steam pipe to #14.

smithbrother

So you know, my engine was a crate CORVETTE LT-1 with fuel coming in on right side, probably makes no difference from the Camaro Z28 engine.

I had a new radiator made by Griffin in 1996 with just upper and lower radiator hose connections, no provisions for a fluid/steam line.

Recently my electric fan gave out while driving on a very hot day, the temp reached appprox. 235 degrees, the epoxy holding the upper tank to the radiator core let go, and steam/water poured out.

I had Howe racing in Michigan build me a tig welded aluminum radiator, I installed it yesterday, and when adding anti-freeze I noticed anti-freeze coming out of the 3/8" tube/fitting coming from the throttle body located below and to the left of the air intake. The tube was/is OPEN, so first thought was that a hose had blown off when the engine temp reach the high point. Looking around I can't find another open tube, so thinking back to when I installed the engine in 1995 I believe I slide a short hose over the pipe, with a plug stuck inside the hose and clamped tight, thus blocking it off.

So at this point, I just have the 3/8" fitting sticking out and allowing fluid to flow onto the floor.

So my question is/was, SHOULD I DO THE SAME AGAIN, or try to do a bypass?

I see single hard lines/tubes coming from the back of the heads, and running front to fittings below the air intake block, but I find NO open fittings like the one in question.

So I'm thinking I can either BLOCK it off, or run a hose into the upper radiator hose.

Sorry to be so much trouble, just need to figure this out. I'm a 79 year old artist, good fab/builder, but not a good engine person. My 41 Buick is a Limited 4-door, great cruiser, I installed all late 80's Vette aluminum suspensions under the car, and it has performed perfect. Until now, hehe.

Just need to solve this issue.

Dale in Indy

Injuneer

I can't follow your description. Maybe it's the difference between the Corvette and F-Body configurations. I know the Corvette had a much more complex cooling system, with an elevated, pressurized reservoir, and a self-bleeding feature to eliminate air. If I had known it was the Corvette configuration, I wouldn't have linked the apparently useless diagrams.

I'll wait until I receive the pictures you are sending. But I am not familiar with the details of the Corvette coolant system. I used to have a copy of an SAE paper from 1992 with details of the LT1's unique features, including the Corvette coolant routing, but I can't find it any more.

Injuneer

Found the Corvette diagram online

smithbrother

Thank You, sorry to have not explained myself better FIRST.

Thank You, the diagram doesn't show the line I am referring to, I will contact Street Performance Co. they do a lot of LT-1 swaps.

Thank You so much,

Dale in Indy

Injuneer

It shows the line that runs from the engine coolant return line to the radiator, to the driver side of the throttle body. Then from the passenger side or the throttle body to the heater intlet. Then from the heater outlet to the pressure reservoir. Isn't that the line you are asking about? It's the only line connected to the throttle body.

Griffin would have made the radiator with the steam return line. I have it on my 94 radiator from Griffin. Not aware of any epoxy holding it together.... it's all welded as best I can see. But the stock style F-Body radiator has side tanks. Been in the car for 16 years with no problem.

smithbrother

My Griffin radiator was built in 1995, the upper and lower tanks were attached to the core by EPOXY, it failed.

My new radiator was built by HOWE racing in Michigan, it is totally TIG welded.

I found STREET & PERFORMACE has a TEE that goes in the radiator hose with a fitting attached that allows a line to go to the throttle body water inlet port, so I will go that way,

Thank You, YOU were very helpful,

Dale in Indy

lt1-xjs

As stated there is no need to run the line through the throttle body. Run the line from the rear of the heads to the tee you are getting and mount it in the return line to the radiator.

smithbrother

So remove the connection from the hard line that comes from the right rear head and enters into the throttle body up front, then run a hose from that hard tube/line up to, and in the new radiator TEE?

That would mean the flow would circulate thru the heads, but NOT thru the throttle body?

Then I should cap off the two fittings that enter the throttle body preventing anything from getting in the body?


Is that what you are suggesting?


Dale in Indy

bw_hunter

Yes, exactly. By bypassing the TB the intake air stays cooler, delivering a charge to the engine that is closer to the temp the IAT sensor reported. This simple mod is worth 6 horsepower...believe it or not. If you car to look, you can find the before and after dyno charts at WS6.com

Injuneer

Yes... 3rd time. Bypass the throttle body. Gains 6 HP, and you will not have any problems with throttle body icing. Everyone bypasses the coolant. I've been running without the coolant to the throttle body for 18 years. Engine runs fine. Vacuum caps on the throttle body nipples. But that's strictly aesthetic.... no problem leaving them open. Advice from another fellow senior citizen.

Modifications #8