to be, or not to be?
05-07-2011, 01:30 PM
#31
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Stockton, CA
Posts: 223
Re: to be, or not to be?
get a 12bolt or 9...and just think about what your plans are...is it a dedicated drag car? I've seen Stock 8.8 stang swapped rears they hold up well.then you gotta think about wheel and tire choices..cus sittin on 8 or 9 inch wide wheels on a narrowed rear end looks like crap! Gears..if its gonna be dd..driveshaft..I busted 3 ds and my rear end is still ok. and Im just bolt-ons dd 3.73's..this can really go on...
05-09-2011, 11:36 AM
#32
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Okemos, MI
Posts: 9,479
Re: to be, or not to be?
Assuming stock tire size and a 6200 rpm rev limiter, max MPH in each gear works out as follows:
3.42:
1st: 45
2nd: 84
3rd: 138
3.73:
1st: 41
2nd: 77
3rd: 126
4.10:
1st: 37
2nd: 70
3rd: 115
With the 4.10 gears, you'll max out at 164 in 4th gear, and with stock-ish power you should be able to get close to that. With the 3.73s or 3.42s, you'll need a couple hundred more horsepower before you need to worry about that.
3.42:
1st: 45
2nd: 84
3rd: 138
3.73:
1st: 41
2nd: 77
3rd: 126
4.10:
1st: 37
2nd: 70
3rd: 115
With the 4.10 gears, you'll max out at 164 in 4th gear, and with stock-ish power you should be able to get close to that. With the 3.73s or 3.42s, you'll need a couple hundred more horsepower before you need to worry about that.
05-10-2011, 03:03 PM
#34
Retired
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Inside Uranus
Posts: 3,167
Re: to be, or not to be?
I did a 4.10 in my 6-speed cam-only car with no problems, but used a girdle... alot of it has to do with setup/installation -- of course I feathered it out of the hole to a pathetic 1.88 60' on Nittos, but still ran 12.24 at nearly 117 mph in a full weight car. 
05-10-2011, 05:13 PM
#35
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 12
Re: to be, or not to be?
The first one was already on its way out when I bought it. It had a wheel bearing issue and the axel seal was shot so it was leaking and damage had already been done but it was still drivable. It just made a whooshing sound when driving and a grinding sound when i got on it from a stop. i took off the cover and pulled about two handfulls of metal off the magnet and replaced the wheel bearing and seal. I managed to make it last me quite a while though. when that rear finally went I bought another used from a junkyard and that one was shot from day one but I kept it in there because it was still usable and I'd just run it into the ground..... until that one finally went too. this time something bad happened in there because rear fluid was pouring out of the cover itself. Anyways I've decided these stock GM rears are crap.
05-10-2011, 05:17 PM
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 12
Re: to be, or not to be?
Assuming stock tire size and a 6200 rpm rev limiter, max MPH in each gear works out as follows:
3.42:
1st: 45
2nd: 84
3rd: 138
3.73:
1st: 41
2nd: 77
3rd: 126
4.10:
1st: 37
2nd: 70
3rd: 115
With the 4.10 gears, you'll max out at 164 in 4th gear, and with stock-ish power you should be able to get close to that. With the 3.73s or 3.42s, you'll need a couple hundred more horsepower before you need to worry about that.
3.42:
1st: 45
2nd: 84
3rd: 138
3.73:
1st: 41
2nd: 77
3rd: 126
4.10:
1st: 37
2nd: 70
3rd: 115
With the 4.10 gears, you'll max out at 164 in 4th gear, and with stock-ish power you should be able to get close to that. With the 3.73s or 3.42s, you'll need a couple hundred more horsepower before you need to worry about that.
btw thankyou
05-11-2011, 08:34 AM
#38
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: MD
Posts: 2,022
Re: to be, or not to be?
Are you hinting that it might be driver error? I baby the car, the only time I get on it is when I'm getting on the highway to merge. (for the most part)
The first one was already on its way out when I bought it. It had a wheel bearing issue and the axel seal was shot so it was leaking and damage had already been done but it was still drivable. It just made a whooshing sound when driving and a grinding sound when i got on it from a stop. i took off the cover and pulled about two handfulls of metal off the magnet and replaced the wheel bearing and seal. I managed to make it last me quite a while though. when that rear finally went I bought another used from a junkyard and that one was shot from day one but I kept it in there because it was still usable and I'd just run it into the ground..... until that one finally went too. this time something bad happened in there because rear fluid was pouring out of the cover itself. Anyways I've decided these stock GM rears are crap.
The first one was already on its way out when I bought it. It had a wheel bearing issue and the axel seal was shot so it was leaking and damage had already been done but it was still drivable. It just made a whooshing sound when driving and a grinding sound when i got on it from a stop. i took off the cover and pulled about two handfulls of metal off the magnet and replaced the wheel bearing and seal. I managed to make it last me quite a while though. when that rear finally went I bought another used from a junkyard and that one was shot from day one but I kept it in there because it was still usable and I'd just run it into the ground..... until that one finally went too. this time something bad happened in there because rear fluid was pouring out of the cover itself. Anyways I've decided these stock GM rears are crap.
