LS1 lids-I don't get it?
03-27-2003, 03:37 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Darien, IL
Posts: 131
LS1 lids-I don't get it?
Can someone explain why getting an airlid on an LS1 is such a big deal? It only inproves the lid!
K&N make a system that replaces the rubber bellow(to the TB) has its own pipe, and a large filter element that removes the entire lid assembly and creates it own look.
Would it not seem logical to replace the entire thing? The reason Im asking is because no one ever talks about the K&N. Is it junk. The only downfall is that it is pricey.Finally, does anyone have a K&N system for their LS1?
K&N make a system that replaces the rubber bellow(to the TB) has its own pipe, and a large filter element that removes the entire lid assembly and creates it own look.
Would it not seem logical to replace the entire thing? The reason Im asking is because no one ever talks about the K&N. Is it junk. The only downfall is that it is pricey.Finally, does anyone have a K&N system for their LS1?
03-27-2003, 06:29 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Fullerton, CA USA
Posts: 186
I have the K&N FIPK and love it! The dyno numbers in my sig are with the FIPK and a cat-back. Those are the only mods performance-wise. It's probably not all that different from just a lid, but I like the appearance of it a lot better too.
03-27-2003, 10:31 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Chicago
Posts: 966
Originally posted by 2002Z28SSConv
Because you won't see more power gains from changing everything. The only way you'll run faster is because of weight reduction from your wallet.
Because you won't see more power gains from changing everything. The only way you'll run faster is because of weight reduction from your wallet.
03-28-2003, 12:09 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 35
You can throw dyno numbers out all day if you want, but the the draw back to the FIPK is its trapped right under the hood with little airflow. All the dyno runs are made with the hood open and plenty of air. The only real way of testing it is with back to back track runs, and no one has done this yet.
03-28-2003, 12:17 AM
#11
Moderator
Join Date: Jul 1998
Location: Charlotte,MI USA
Posts: 6,249
Originally posted by Black01_Z
WHAT????? Have you ever compared dyno results from a lid vs. KN FIPK. Lids dyno ~ 10 rwhp. The FIPK gets ~ 22 rwhp. Just do a search and see how much people have gotten. Numbers dont lie. The FIPK is worth every penny. I have it and love it. I dont have numbers to back it since i didnt dyno it, but there is a huge difference and I was truly amazed at the power gained from intake. Do not be afraid to get the FIPK. The power gain is more than double a lid.
WHAT????? Have you ever compared dyno results from a lid vs. KN FIPK. Lids dyno ~ 10 rwhp. The FIPK gets ~ 22 rwhp. Just do a search and see how much people have gotten. Numbers dont lie. The FIPK is worth every penny. I have it and love it. I dont have numbers to back it since i didnt dyno it, but there is a huge difference and I was truly amazed at the power gained from intake. Do not be afraid to get the FIPK. The power gain is more than double a lid.
FPIK out performs on the dyno because of a straighter air path and more filter area. But with the hood closed going down the track......???A lid + K&N + Fasttoys style ie SSRA, Whisper, ect. Will supply just as much air going down the track as the FPIK and the air will be cooler.
03-28-2003, 07:01 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 113
There's an interessting story in this month's GM HP magazin about their 4" crack pipe that they installed and tested. They saw HP gains on the dyno but not much at the track, they compared the 4" air inlet pipe and nothing at all.... just a filter.... yes, on a dyno with the hood open it's a difference but daily driving with the hood open or no hood is not that great...
The other question is : is it really noticeable HP ? Probably not that much that it's worth the extra money over a lid, well, this is just my opinion but if you just save some money and go with the lid you'll have this money left for something else ...
The other question is : is it really noticeable HP ? Probably not that much that it's worth the extra money over a lid, well, this is just my opinion but if you just save some money and go with the lid you'll have this money left for something else ...
03-28-2003, 08:21 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Sac, CA
Posts: 674
You can throw dyno numbers out all day if you want, but the the draw back to the FIPK is its trapped right under the hood with little airflow. All the dyno runs are made with the hood open and plenty of air. The only real way of testing it is with back to back track runs, and no one has done this yet.
Second, yes, back to backs have been done at the track and the FIPK will and has consistantly out performed a lid alone. Now add the FTRA to a lid and they become essentially equal. But that aside ... with essentailly the same mods you have, I ran 2 tenths quicker with a FIPK.
Dyno numbers are fine and dandy but I haven't found any 2 place dynos to race on yet. FPIK out performs on the dyno because of a straighter air path and more filter area. But with the hood closed going down the track......???
A lid + K&N + Fasttoys style ie SSRA, Whisper, ect. Will supply just as much air going down the track as the FPIK and the air will be cooler.
A lid + K&N + Fasttoys style ie SSRA, Whisper, ect. Will supply just as much air going down the track as the FPIK and the air will be cooler.
You can find an FIPK for $260 to $280 complete. Depending upon which lid and CAI system you get you'll be paying anywhere from $50 to $100 more for an FTRA over the FIPK.
Besides if you are going to mess with the radiator air flow, just remove the washer reservoir and the shroud underneath. It's less potetntially detrimental than physically blocking the radiator and delivers a heck of lot more air to the mouth of the air intake than the FTRA ... think about it what's going to get you more air a slit 2" by 14" or an opening 14" by 24" ... I knocked 2 tenths off my times with this mod ...
I'll stand by the FIPK, the times in the sig with a 3660 lb raceweight, a +1400 D/A and nothing but bolt ons ...
Good Luck
03-28-2003, 08:58 PM
#15
Moderator
Join Date: Jul 1998
Location: Charlotte,MI USA
Posts: 6,249
I'll stand by the FIPK, the times in the sig with a 3660 lb raceweight, a +1400 D/A and nothing but bolt ons ...
Good Luck [/B][/QUOTE]
Let's see you've got long tubes to my stock manifolds
cut out to my loudmouth
short belt to my stock set up
3.73s to my 3.42s
skinnys to my stock fronts
drag wheels to my stock rear wheels
3660 lbs to my 3590 lbs
3200 vig to my 3500 Yank
FPIK to my SSRA+Direct Flow (which does NOT block the radiator)
and 12.12 to my 12.15
I'll stick to what I've got
Good Luck [/B][/QUOTE]
Let's see you've got long tubes to my stock manifolds
cut out to my loudmouth
short belt to my stock set up
3.73s to my 3.42s
skinnys to my stock fronts
drag wheels to my stock rear wheels
3660 lbs to my 3590 lbs
3200 vig to my 3500 Yank
FPIK to my SSRA+Direct Flow (which does NOT block the radiator)
and 12.12 to my 12.15
I'll stick to what I've got