ShellySikeowitz

I stumbled upon this Gen II on craigslist. There is a large amount of rust in the trunk pan but I'm not 100% sure if there's any stuctural rust on the suspension, etc (There is orange/brown everywhere but I'm not good at spotting corrosive damage besides that). Wheel wells are bumpy but I don't think it's rust. Drum brakes are about to explode into a fine orange cloud. Aside from that, there is smoke from a faulty O-ring. The interior is completely redone minus air conditioning and the 350 SBC was rebuilt only 6 months ago. I would probably have to put in some money to clean it up but I'm no car show guy, don't expect me to go very deep underwater. Would it be worth it to make this a daily driver (ie; making it 100% safe and not likely to get me killed lmao) in your opinion? Thanks for reading
1977 camaro v8
PS: For those of you who frequent many Camaro boards, you may have come across this exact post. I apologize for spamming it on different sites but I need immediate answers.

jloshotz

The page says the posting has expired...the only thing I'll say is, go over every inch of the rear subframe and the area where the front of the leaf springs mount really well. The late gen 2's were notorious for rusting out in these areas....if it checks out well in those spots, it's a big plus.

bobdec

$3k looks like going price for a fixer-upper.. An older cars worth is in the eyes of the buyer. Drove a '78 Camaro for a few years, my 4th gen is much more fun, with better steering, suspension, brakes and handling for the money. But a '77 is much easier to maintain and tune because of the older less complex drive train, and lack of electronic control.

ShellySikeowitz

Sorry about that, the posting was still up when I pasted the link. Here is an album where you can view part of the car. The body is perfect as far as I can tell, though I'm not able to spot if it's been in past scraps.

jloshotz, if that area was rusted out, would the damage be too much to fix for a reliable dd?

http://s1173.photobucket.com/albums/...ellySikeowitz/

jloshotz

Shelly, it might. I had the same car with that problem. It caused my rear axle to shift...a quick way to check is to look at the rear wheels' location in the wheel opening....if the problem exists and is severe enough, the wheel won't be center in the opening. A tape measure from hub center front to hub center rear on both sides can be used to check, it should be the same on both sides. My floor pan area around the front leaf spring mount turned out to be rotted to the point of not being able to hold the rear true. Check the frame carefully where it goes up over and around the rear wheels as well, ad this is a common spot for rot too. This is only something I've seen, hopefully the one you're looking at us okay

SteveC

it is not worth it.

SteveC