eazyZ

Car won't start or Turn over as stated in title. I drove it school and it was fine but when went to go home it wouldn't start. I had it towed to a shop (my brothers bosses, so ill do the work and have tried both keys.

There is power to the car (lights stereo ect. all work). When I put the key in the ignition and turn it to the ON position the secruity light stays on for ~5secs then goes off (as i believe it should?).

I thought it was the clutch position sensor because for the past few months there has been a "sweet spot" for it to start, i.e. when i put the clutch pedal to the firewall it doesn't turn over. I tried grounding the Clutch sensor (using a wire to bridge the connections in harness plug attached to the clutch pedal) but nothing changed.

Tomorrow I am planning on testing the starter to see if that is the problem. If anyone has any suggestions that would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Ryan

Injuneer

Did you check the battery terminals and main cables for corrosion?

eazyZ

No I haven't I'll give that a try. Is there a sensor in the transmission that I could check?

Injuneer

No sensor, no switch other than the backup lights, in the T56. Nothing that would prevent the starter from working.

GaryDoug

Do you hear a loud click from the starter?
If it clicks, the fault could be the starter or battery terminals.
If no click, check the theft deterrent relay for a soft click. That is mounted under the dash on the far right side.

If it clicks, check the relay and the starter.
If no click, check the ignition switch, the transmission switch, and fusible link "E" in the bundle of fusible links at the power terminal atop the right fender well near the battery.

eazyZ

The terminals all looked free of rust. I checked the starter and it works fine. Ill take another look tomorrow and listen to it. Thanks for the help guys

Injuneer

The problems with the terminals isn't "rust".... its a green/white compound formed by the battery gasses. Takes very little of it to cause a large amount of resistance in the connection. Very common problem for the condition you report. The corrosion also gets into the ends of the stranded cables, and causes additional resistance as they corrode apart.

Take Shoebox's 96 diagram (essentially the same as your 97) and follow the 12V source from the battery to the TDR and starter, using a volt meter.


http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_96.jpg

eazyZ

Everything is free of corrosion. I didn't hear any clicks from the starter or anywhere for that matter. I also borrowed a scanner from my mechanic and didn't find any error codes. Im not very good with electronics could anyone give me some instructions on how to use a multimeter to check the the switches and fuses that GaryDoug mentioned? My mechanic friend is thinking that it has to do with the ignition and means that it will need to be returned to GM to solve the problem. Again, thanks for all the replies guys and sorry i was late to reply, Im trying to be on here learning and at the car as much as I can but its hard with school.

grabbem88

All fuses checked out? Under hood and side panel inside car?

Ground wire from starter good and tight??

Injuneer

Is your mechanic friend familiar with using a multi-meter to check the voltage from the battery through the inition switch, the transmission/clutch interlock, and the security modules?

GaryDoug

I checked the service manual diagrams and it looks like the fusible link should be ok if the radio works. The starter and radio circuits share that link. Since you jumpered the clutch switch and that didn't work, that probably rules that out unless a wire at the connector is bad.
The theft module seems to be working because the security lamp goes out but it could still have a fault, although not too likely.

The only thing that hasn't been checked is the ignition switch. You can check that by using a jumper wire (small gauge with 10 amp fuse if possible) from battery positive to the yellow wire at the clutch switch with the connector on the switch, the clutch pedal depressed, and the key in the lock turned to Run (not start).

If that operates the starter, the ignition switch or it's connector is likely defective.

If that does not operate the starter, repeat the test but use the brown wire instead of the yellow wire. If that works, the clutch switch or connector is defective.

eazyZ

Im not sure how familiar he is with a multi meter. He's an import guy but ive seen everything from newer mercedes to a 68 Chevelle in his garage so i trust his skill. He's only driven a few camaros and firebirds but his only real experience with our cars is me forcing him to look at mine and when he put an ls1/t56 into a 240.

I probably should have mentioned this before, but last christmas I put a new stereo into the car (deck, speakers and amp) could this have caused any problems? I am doubtful of this because for the last year the car has been running fine, but I'm running out of options for things to check.

Im going out to look at the car tomorrow (its a holiday up here in Vancouver BC) and if we cant solve it, then its off the the dealership.

Injuneer

Imports have issues that require a multi-meter.... not something unique to domestic vehicles. Swapping an engine, with it's control system would also require similar knowledge.

SteveC

Have someone be under the vehicle with a hammer, turn the key to start the vehicle, have the person under the vehicle start hitting the starter, if the vehicle then turns over you need a new starter, for you have a bad internal bendix.