Went to the track tonight..........horrible times!!!
#1
Went to the track tonight..........horrible times!!!
R/T .778
60' 2.218
330 6.052
1/8 9.143
MPH 79.61
1000 11.784
1/4 14.004
MPH 101.14
I ran two other times but I boged it both times on the launch. What is going on? I just put a fresh set of 26x11.5x16 M/T ET streets on.
60' 2.218
330 6.052
1/8 9.143
MPH 79.61
1000 11.784
1/4 14.004
MPH 101.14
I ran two other times but I boged it both times on the launch. What is going on? I just put a fresh set of 26x11.5x16 M/T ET streets on.
#2
those are good bolt on times, but not if you ran with the stuff in your sig.
what elevation was the track? any ses codes? the 101 mph is little high for a 14, you should be lower,
the 60 can be improved obviously, did you get wheelspin? bog?
humidity?
what elevation was the track? any ses codes? the 101 mph is little high for a 14, you should be lower,
the 60 can be improved obviously, did you get wheelspin? bog?
humidity?
#3
Im at sea level. Im pretty sure Im spinning the tires all the way down the track. Everyone I talk to says "When you hook, you will fell it" so I dont think Im hooking either because Im not feeling it. It just seems like the car isnt pulling at all, form the starting line to the finish. Im not getting an codes and the car idles and runs perfect. Also, Im running everthing that is in the sig.
#5
those are slow if you ask me, you should be running low 13/ High 12s if you ask me, although i dont know the specs on that cam.
Heads/Cam/Slicks should get you better than 14.0@101 I would start checking it out.
Heads/Cam/Slicks should get you better than 14.0@101 I would start checking it out.
#7
Originally posted by Florida_Z28_Boy
That would be my diagnosis too. Either that or check the posi-traction (is that what they call it still?)
That would be my diagnosis too. Either that or check the posi-traction (is that what they call it still?)
How would this effect my track times? I mean the rear seems fine when I drove to the track and driving home. Or Im just missing the point.
#9
Were you dragging an anchor?
That sucks man.
I know I'd be dissapointed after spending a wad on my car and getting times like that.
You're supposed to drop off the 3 passengers before you do your run..........
That sucks man.
I know I'd be dissapointed after spending a wad on my car and getting times like that.
You're supposed to drop off the 3 passengers before you do your run..........
#10
Originally posted by JoeliusZ28
a bad posi would hurt your 60 foot times...
a bad posi would hurt your 60 foot times...
Have that and your clutch checked out. It's more than likely your clutch or weather conditions though, or crappy track surface.
#11
Wow man..sorry to hear about your times. My 98 Z is completely stock except an air lid, K+N filter. Stock exhaust, tires, everything! A4 and I ran a 13.64. You should be getting into the mid or high 12's. No idea why though (no offense to you at all, but could it be the driver?) I know a few guys at the track that were bad drivers, so they let someone else drive and they got better times.
Also you said you were on street tires right? That might be why. My friend had a mustang there on streets, 5 speed, and he got no traction whatsoever, ran a 14.9 was his best, then someone let him borrow their slicks and he ran a 13.79. If you put all that muscle into the car, but have no traction, it's useless. Subframe connectors, control arms, slicks, etc. I'd get it all. ESPECIALLY the SFC's!!!
Good luck and hope to hear things get better!
edit: I just saw your reaction time was .77 somethin' That's SLOW! Almost a full second. My reaction time on the 13.64 was .110 I started bad, but a guy that had a corvette running 11.88's told me to step on the gas and release the brake AS SOON as the second yellow light went out. We had three yellow lights then the green. You're waiting for the green, then going. Take off as soon as that second light goes off and then keep judging from there. R/T has a ton to do with times at the track!
Also you said you were on street tires right? That might be why. My friend had a mustang there on streets, 5 speed, and he got no traction whatsoever, ran a 14.9 was his best, then someone let him borrow their slicks and he ran a 13.79. If you put all that muscle into the car, but have no traction, it's useless. Subframe connectors, control arms, slicks, etc. I'd get it all. ESPECIALLY the SFC's!!!
Good luck and hope to hear things get better!
edit: I just saw your reaction time was .77 somethin' That's SLOW! Almost a full second. My reaction time on the 13.64 was .110 I started bad, but a guy that had a corvette running 11.88's told me to step on the gas and release the brake AS SOON as the second yellow light went out. We had three yellow lights then the green. You're waiting for the green, then going. Take off as soon as that second light goes off and then keep judging from there. R/T has a ton to do with times at the track!
Last edited by wookiesz28; 04-17-2004 at 01:49 PM.
#12
Did you try a little less tire? Maybe DR's would be better for you. From your mod list ET's should be good but they may be too much tire. Try DR's so you don't bog so much and see if you can get traction down the track. If it feels like you never stopped spinning either you were spinning the whole time, or it was your clutch slipping. I' gonna guess it's the latter. That much power mixed with that much tire equals bye bye clutch. I bet that's your prob. 2.2 60ft with an ET street and that much power means something else is wrong. What RPM are you launching at? Even your mph seems low?
#13
Originally posted by wookiesz28
Wow man..sorry to hear about your times. My 98 Z is completely stock except an air lid, K+N filter. Stock exhaust, tires, everything! A4 and I ran a 13.64. You should be getting into the mid or high 12's.
Wow man..sorry to hear about your times. My 98 Z is completely stock except an air lid, K+N filter. Stock exhaust, tires, everything! A4 and I ran a 13.64. You should be getting into the mid or high 12's.
Also you said you were on street tires right? That might be why. My friend had a mustang there on streets, 5 speed, and he got no traction whatsoever, ran a 14.9 was his best, then someone let him borrow their slicks and he ran a 13.79. If you put all that muscle into the car, but have no traction, it's useless.
edit: I just saw your reaction time was .77 somethin' That's SLOW! Almost a full second. My reaction time on the 13.64 was .110 I started bad, but a guy that had a corvette running 11.88's told me to step on the gas and release the brake AS SOON as the second yellow light went out. We had three yellow lights then the green. You're waiting for the green, then going. Take off as soon as that second light goes off and then keep judging from there. R/T has a ton to do with times at the track!
Not a lot of help.
#14
First of all I know you're feeling frustrated right now, but let's look at the positive...the trap speed ain't that bad...and that can be influenced by heat , humidity, cool down time between runs, etc. Your 60' is lousy, especially with ET Streets. I also don't see anything about SFCs, LCAs, TA, etc (if I missed them, then sorry...)What tire pressure were you running, and on what size (width wheel)...Most people I know with ETs start with 15 psi and go down to around 12...Like others have said hooking up on a stock clutch will take out the clutch, espacially if its got some miles on it..Also the stock limited slips in these cars weren't the best; you may be "single tracking" as a result.
Anyway, my advice would be to first and foremost go back to the track with a spotter and a video camera...Have the spotter video your run. He'll be able to see if you're spinning, bogging, single tracking, etc...This will make it pretty clear whether or not you have a mechanical failure, driver failure (haha), or a traction issue that can be addressed with the appropriate parts...Hope this helps a little, and good luck...and don't worry about reaction time. It does nothing for your ET. I don't know what "wookies" is talking about...
--Alan
Anyway, my advice would be to first and foremost go back to the track with a spotter and a video camera...Have the spotter video your run. He'll be able to see if you're spinning, bogging, single tracking, etc...This will make it pretty clear whether or not you have a mechanical failure, driver failure (haha), or a traction issue that can be addressed with the appropriate parts...Hope this helps a little, and good luck...and don't worry about reaction time. It does nothing for your ET. I don't know what "wookies" is talking about...
--Alan
#15
Ok,
You definately have an issue going on here.
Back when I owned my 97 LT1 TA I had an auto with 2.73 gears and the only mod was a flowmaster. I ran consistant 9.05 - 9.10 times @79 mph. In the 1/4 I usually turned 14.00s just like you.
Who did your heads?
Who did your install?
Have you had the thing dyno tuned to see whats going on?
also who installed the roller rockers? reason I ask is I tried to install a set once and didnt get them set right and the car lost hp big time.
If that car was mine it would already be on the dyno here in Charlotte letting an experienced tech tell me whats up.
Because that is just not acceptable, I actually would be pissed if that car ran 13.00s.
Also check the cam and make sure the grind is right for your car. I have seen countless times where people throw a cam in and it is such a top end heavy cam that it throws the rpm range off the chart and the car has no chance to get into the usable hp range of the cam.
These are just a few observations and questions for you to think about.
Mike
You definately have an issue going on here.
Back when I owned my 97 LT1 TA I had an auto with 2.73 gears and the only mod was a flowmaster. I ran consistant 9.05 - 9.10 times @79 mph. In the 1/4 I usually turned 14.00s just like you.
Who did your heads?
Who did your install?
Have you had the thing dyno tuned to see whats going on?
also who installed the roller rockers? reason I ask is I tried to install a set once and didnt get them set right and the car lost hp big time.
If that car was mine it would already be on the dyno here in Charlotte letting an experienced tech tell me whats up.
Because that is just not acceptable, I actually would be pissed if that car ran 13.00s.
Also check the cam and make sure the grind is right for your car. I have seen countless times where people throw a cam in and it is such a top end heavy cam that it throws the rpm range off the chart and the car has no chance to get into the usable hp range of the cam.
These are just a few observations and questions for you to think about.
Mike
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post