Fatdog2

I have to (not smack but pound the dash)to get some home made cd's to work.Do you have an after market alarm system?If so,try disconnecting it,and see if that helps.Do the cheap stuff first.My02.

blackbirdta

I don't have an aftermarket alarm, but it does have a Sony headunit. I thought that might be the problem for a while until the windows not working got thrown into the mix.

I'm having a new, probably related problem now. My brake light stays on sometimes when the E brake is off and the ABS INOP and ASR off lights stay on (this all happend once before). In addition to that, the tach and speedometer surges. I noticed it first when I hit the defrost button then noticed it when acelerating and sometimes when braking...this car is really starting to **** me off

Nuke

Check this thread on LS1tech.com. This worked for me. The problem is poor soldering in the body control module.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...ol+body+module

blackbirdta

Wow that looks like almost a sure fix. Hopefully i'll get some time soon to look at this. So the BCM is a black box up under the dash behind the glove box and you just open it up and look for a crack in one of the solder joints then heat it up and smooth it out? seems easy enough. I have that extra BCM too, but it looks like that would require some changes to the VATS i guess?

DirtyDaveW

I replaced my BCM for the same reason but it didn't fix it. It turns out it was this..
http://shbox.com/ignsw/ign_switch_repl.html

blackbirdta

i almost got a chance to look at the BCM today, but i couldn't find it right away and moved on to do some other things.

dirtydave- you had the same symptoms with the windows and radio cutting off and the ignition switch fixed it? it seems like a stretch and a PITA to replace, but i'll add it to the list.

DirtyDaveW

It's not intuitive, that's for sure. But what that device does is slide metal contacts that power things in the car. I don't remember if it affected the windows or not. But it's a part they carry at all Autozone/O'Reillys, etc so they go out frequently enough to warrant that, especially if you put extra loads on the electrical system that come on when you turn the key like electric water pumps (raises hand). I have a brand new GM BCM, new in the box up at my house in NY. I'm in Texas at the moment fighting my own electrical demons in my 96. Best of luck to you! Be sure to post what you find. Don't be like these stinkers that post all their troubles then never post what fixed it.

SiNfulSS

Had the same problem, I tracked it down to being a bad wiring harness at the BCM. The BLACK harness to be exact. Check at your BCM behind the glove box. You will have to access the wiring harnesses from underneath the passenger side kick panel. There are THREE wiring harnesses that connect to the BCM, You've got a big light blue one, a Teal one, and a Black one. The black one is going to have all the big power wires that power the BCM. That's one that's going to be your problem. The big red wire is going to be the one that your more than likely to be concerned with. I ended up pulling my RED wire out of the harness and bending the prongs so that they sit tighter against the connector. Re-installed everything and never had any problems since.

Dwaynez28

I also have the radio/windows problem,read about the BCM here,I was going to post about my hatch opening up when i saw this-----Sorry to jump in---Would the BCM unlock my hatch when i unlock my doors with the transmitter?? I have found when going down the road my hatch will fly open over bumps--Not cool when a 51 year old has his hatch fly open. Both sets of transmitters will not open the hatch,key works--is all this related?? Thanks Dwayne

SiNfulSS

NO, the BCM does not unlock the hatch when you press UNLOCK from either the remote or from the door lock switches. Sounds to me like you need to verify that your hatch is locking shut when you close it. You should close your hatch and then try to pull up on it by hand and see if it will pop open.

BTW you must have a very strong set of lift struts on your hatch cause I can drive around with my hatch unlocked and I have NEVER had mine open up on me. It takes quite a bit of lifting on that hatch to open it. More so than just some bouncing around could do. The rear hatch is pretty friggin heavy, you'll see what I'm talking about if you ever have to replace your hatch struts.

Dwaynez28

No i have been pulling up on hatch now and its closed, I notice it open when driving ;by a diiferent sound in back and then I will go over a train track or other Louisiana bump and it will bounce open and go down but not lock.I close it when i park. Thanks Dwayne

Dwaynez28

I deleted my earlier post-on resoldering the BCM-Didnt see "NUKE'S" post first,I also found that post on LS1.com by searching the web on Body control modules, may have corrected my window/radio/on,off issue. And as a sidenote--Dont know why,but both my transmitters are opening the hatch now after i redid the solder connections,were not working before.

TomcatMF

I just used the search function and I found this thread. I'm having the exact same problems with my '97 SS Camaro. I'm gonna check out that BCM. Fortunately I know how to solder.

1997whitez28

It tends to happen to alot of 1996 and 1997 users but mostly 1997.

km9v

I think I'm having this issue w/ may car. It started a few weeks ago. My radio would just turn off by itself, then come back on after 30 sec. or so. This morning the radio went out & I noticed my windows wouldn't work. I tried the classic, smacking the dash, it didn't do anything at first, but them came on after about a min.Anyone else have this issue in an LS1?