scottso

Convertible here - its not the wind noise, its the rattle of the window against (I guess) the top frame rail when I cross RR tracks or hit even mild rough road. Only the passenger side does it. It makes the car sound like a bucket of bolts - especially to the passenger. I haven't been able to eliminate it - except for putting the window down.

I also get a rattle from the rear only during lower speed left turns - thats been going on for 10K miles. I pretty much gave up.

canbaufo

This isn't necessarily intended for scottso in particular as I doubt it would help his issue but for all viewers. Do not underestimate the potential of your exhaust hitting your PHB. Mine "appeared" to clear it just fine but with the car on jacks (on axle so suspension was loaded) I was able to pull down on the exhaust really hard and get it to "clunk" on the PHB, it sounded very "familiar". I raised it a good 1/2" and think that will clear it. Check your exhaust anywhere and everywhere for good clearance and rattles; push it, pull it, wiggle it, hit it with a BFM (Mallet)! Look at it with suspension loaded and unloaded too.

Concerning the hatch shocks, SUSPECT THEM AND INSPECT THEM (same method but be gentle). At first I thought only one of mine was the culprit and then I discovered the other one was too. It wasn't failed tack welds, it was a failed design. They mount in metal pieces that are somehow sprung onto other metal in there, it's not tight enough and when the shocks are "tapped" by a bump you get a metal to metal "pop" that's very annoying.

All you need to do is pop the shocks off where they connect in the hatch by removing cotter pins and prying with a large flat head screwdriver (secure the hatch with a board first so it doens't hit you in the head when you remove the first shock!!!), remove the bolts that they secure to, use a large flat heat screw driver (or other pushing device) to push the piece up that has the threads in it. Note the space between the piece with the threads and the other metal inside. Fill that space with vaccuum tubing or spare rubber of your choice. Re-install the bolt and fill the area in with clear RTV. You will have to raise the hatch all the way to get it back on.

You can also pop off the other ends of the shocks in the interior (lots of effort needed to remove the Torx bolts, keep the torx socket very secure by tapping it with a mallet every half turn or so). I found some excessive left to right play in those which also allowed some front to back play ...so I shimmed them with greased rubber oil drain gaskets. This was probably overkill but I had the sail panels off anyway and figured why not.

Hatch makes a pleasant "thud" when it's closed now. I am grinding hubs and doing other mods as needed for the bigger new wheels/tires and should have the car back on the road in a few days (going to rain here incessantly for awhile anyway).

canbaufo

UPDATE:

Finally got around to driving it. For those of you who don't believe there is any hope for your F-body ...think again. When I go over railroad tracks I now hear a pleasant "thud thud thud". The sound deadening made a tremendous difference and it feels like a whole different car, better than new. Throughout this whole process I must have fixed more than a dozen sources of noise and subdued others that there is no fix for to the degree that they are hardly noticeable. Yes, it took some time and effort and a good bit of patience ...but it is now well worthwhile.

Call BS if you want but it now reminds me of my 2nd cousins BMW when I hit a bump ...firm ride but no rattles and squeaks, no resonating noises, and NO CLUNKS. Other noise like exhaust and road noise is greatly reduced via the sound deadener.

If anyone needs help or has questions let me know and I will help walk you through fixing your beloved 4th gen crudities .....

JP95ZM6

When my window is down about an inch for ventilation, it the glass can flop in and out a little, and clunks on something. Open it 3 inches or more, and the clunk stops.

I haven't even pulled the panel to check it out yet. Anybody know a cause and fix for this?

TMDZ28

you gave me hope sir!

canbaufo

I haven't worked on the doors/windows yet but will be before too long. In the meantime check this Power window motor R&R write up by Shoebox out (excellent write up) ...it can help with assembly / reassembly of the door and you may be able to figure it out from there:

http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html

canbaufo

Update for TMDZ28 and others interested. I used those power window motor replacement directions mentioned in previous post and took the doors apart last night. Easy fixes again! When you pull the panel off of the door you will immediately notice two adjustable window braces at the top of the door. Over time my driver side window had "beaten the braces in" and loosened the adjustment (they were set much different than the passenger side). I nearly maxed out the adjustment and pushed them onto the window about as firm as they would go (be careful, if you go too tight you might scratch the window or strain the motor). To test this you just reconnect the power window/lock controller and reconnect the negative battery terminal (btw definitely disconnect it before you even start disassembly of the door)....work the window up and down in different positions and test how wobbley it is. Once you have it adjusted where you want it, disconnect the negative battery terminal, then take the controller back off before you reinstall the panels.

I found a few other fixes too. Cut through the plastic sheet in the middle of the door where necessary (or peel it back and re-adhere later) and tighten up all bolts you can find (including speaker bolts). Note how the door flexes and rattles in the middle when you close it firmly (look at it as you do it). I noticed that the spot that moves the most can be shimmed with a chunk of rubber agaist the vertical window track (it's nice and solid). Once you shim it really good it will no longer flex and vibrate.

Now when I close the doors they "thud" like new car doors. :-)

For those who want to take it a step further ...maybe try some spare mattress foam top in-between the panel and the door, might quiet things down even more. I can provide pictures if anyone needs help, I just don't have them uploaded yet.

JakeRobb

Make sure the window regulator is bolted in tight, and make sure the parts that grip the glass are tight too. If they're loose, tighten them (and use blue loctite so they don't loosen again). If they're all tight, replace the regulator (and do the power window motor rewire from autotrix.net while you're in there).

RUDEDOG

Anybody have a fix for the emergency brake handle button buzz.

canbaufo

Good one! ...I like that we're getting new stuff in here. I haven't even noticed that on mine but maybe it's a problem I'm not aware of, will check it out. Perhaps a generous amount of white lithium grease could help with this.

Do you know how to take the console out? It's not hard, just remember that you have to fully raise the E-brake to slide it up and out (you have to be patient and go slow or it could crack easily I'd say). Also you have to remove the shifter boot (easily pops out) to access one of the bolts that holds the whole assembly in. Once you get it out play around with your E-brake and I bet something will come to you. Perhaps you can wrap the cable up with tape in areas that won't get any friction? Just look at it and play around with ideas as you duplicate the noise with the button.

DeuceGI

GM actually has a TSB on this issue. Mine doesn't buzz so I can't vouch for its effectiveness:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
File In Section: 5 - Brakes

Bulletin No.: 73-50-14

Date: April, 1997

Subject:
Rattle/Buzz Noise from Park Brake Handle Release Button
(Add Tension to Release Button)

Models:
1993-97 Chevrolet Camaro
1993-97 Pontiac Firebird

Condition

Some owners may comment on a rattle/buzz type noise coming from the park brake handle release button.

Correction

To correct this condition, add some tension to the release button by using the following procedure:

Procedure

1. Push down on the front end of ratchet pawl (right side of park brake handle below console seal). This allows the disengaged handle to be moved up to a vertical position.

2. Using a narrow bladed screwdriver, push the bottom "hooked" end of the release button rod away from the lock pawl and twist slightly to disengage it and allow the release button to be lifted up and out of the apply/release handle.

3. With the button up out of the handle, bend the rod forward 2 - 4 mm (.080 -.160 in.). This is enough to keep tension on the button at all times and prevent it from rattling.

Important : If the button rod is bent too far, it may restrict the button travel.

4. Rehook the bottom end of the button rod over the lock pawl and check the button operation.

5. Push the release button and lower the park brake handle down to the release position.

6. Cycle the park brake handle several times to insure proper operation.


Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Labor
Operation Description Time
H2800 Park Brake - Adjust 0.4 hr

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I got it from Alldata here at work. HTH
Tim

RUDEDOG

Thanks Tim. I tried that and unfortunately I had to bend it back to where it was because it would not stay locked upright. It's rigged right on the edge of where it needs to be to stay locked. The problem is cam and poly mounts are not helping in the vibration department but other than that little button I really don't have any noise or rattles. Thanks.

MarcR94v6

Does anyone's Automatic shift **** rattle? I thought maybe the spring inside the button was worn or something and i can try a new one, but they're $60, so I might try a new one. But I was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if replacing it made any difference.

lynnea1

I think there's a woodpecker on the drivers side dash, to the far left. 99 Firebird Formula. Doesnt happen all the time, just occasionally around 40-45 mph. But when it happens its really loud.