petes camaro

I have a problem with my 1989 IROC Z 5.7 TPI . I live in Abu Dhabi and in the summer heat the car overheats if stuck at lights/traffic .
I have fitted a new triple row aluminium radiator, a Stewart Stage 2 Water pump ( correct rotation ), JETS 180* Thermostat, factory dual electric fans run full time ( new motors fitted ), disconnected the throttle body water heating hoses, likewise the heater is disconnected, new O2 sensor, K & N Air Filters, the air dam is fitted underneath the car, adjustable fuel pressure regulator set at 46 PSI,
Water temp. is fine on the open road and a lot lower since all the mods. carried out. Just doesn't like traffic and slowly creeps up. I do not know where it stops now but it used to boil before mods. Want to try to cure overheating before I install a 383.
Looking at previous Forums I need to check Ignition Timing ( 6* BTDC ) but otherwise I am running out of ideas. Also due to heat, have to run A/C which aggravates problem greatly.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated

redneckgames

This statement makes it seem to me that it is all an airflow problem. While driving, the air flowing across the radiator is more then the fans are pulling while at an idle. If everything else is working correctly, then I would suggest upgrading the fans.

What temperature is it running at exactly? It may actually be fine, just higher then you think it should be.

rv93

agreed, if ti works fine at high speeds, but not low speeds, you need bigger/better fans. if it starts overheating, and you cant stop, roll down the windows, and turn on your heater full blast. youll probably melt, but the engine temp will go down

Gtpguy

Is the airdam intact? 3rd gen air dams are very flimsy and if they broke off, you will have never ending cooling problems.

redneckgames

true, but the airdam, or lack of, will not cause issues at idle.

Gtpguy

Even at idle, an air dam is reflecting some air up there. And I see in his original post the air dam is intact.

Maybe there is an air bubble in there somewhere. The radiator cap, even new, are known to go bad quickly. Its happened to me in AZ before. It sucks. Can you get a 160* stat? Or drill a couple tiny holes in the 180*? Maybe a hose has a little tiny hole causing a loss of pressure? But if its boiling over, I'd get a new rad cap.