brentbrowning01

Just curious if this is the correct optispark for my car before I purchase it? I just pull off the old Opti and replace it with this one? Cardone Reman/Distributor 30-1803H at AutoZone.com

Injuneer

Problem is, the listing makes no sense. One photo shows a splined drive shaft. That only works on 93 and 94. Your 95 needs a model that is driven by the cam dowel pin. That's shown in one of the other photos.

Then the listing says its for 6 cylinders, which is a mistake, the description indicates the rebuild includes new diaphragms, points, and condenser, none of which is present in an Optispark distributor.

Then it says cap is not included, rotor is not included, even though the photos show the cap.

So... can't tell if that will fit your car, or if it even includes the complete distributor. And, Cardone is not a reliable unit. The only recommended replacements are from AC Delco and Delphi. Others are know to have a very high failure rate. Unfortunately, the quality is directly proportional to the price, and requires that you spend the higher price for the recommended brands.

moparman

Injuneer is right. Price to reliability ratio is especially critical for the opti. Here's a link to Rock Auto. Notice the prices go from $80 to near $400. I'd go with the Delphi unit.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,c...,parttype,7108

brentbrowning01

Yeah, Injuneer that's what I was thinking... That's why I posted this link. I noticed it said for 6 cylinders too that's why I was wondering. It has 8 plugs so that tells me that Autozone isn't posting the correct info. Thanks for the link moparman!

brentbrowning01

Man, if it ain't one thing it's another. took the car out for a test ride, fans didn't come on, temp got hot and the smaller of the two heater hoses (the hoses with the bleeder screws) blew a pin hole leak. Left me broke down. Had to call AAA to tow me home. Wasn't even driving hard. Oh well, I guess these kind of things happen on a 20 year old car. What's the technical name for the smaller of the two heater hoses with the bleeder screws? Thanks!

Injuneer

As usual, Shoebox has the answers. There is only one bleeder screw in the heater hose. The other screw is on the thermostat housing.

http://shbox.com/1/heater_hoses.jpg

brentbrowning01

Yeah Injuneer, I've seen that diagram. I was really wanting to know the technical name for the whole assembly.

Injuneer

The metal pipes (including parts 3-5) are indicated as being sold as an assembly. The other parts are shown as individual parts, with name and number. That's the way they were sold when the car was built. Someone may now be making aftermarket assemblies of parts. Check the large online suppliers like Nalley.

Or you may find you need to separate your current compnonents, and reassemble them with a new piece of hose to replace the one with hole.

brentbrowning01

As always, Thank you!! You guys amaze me with your knowledge of these cars. I"m sure there are more on this forum but Injuneer, Shobox and GaryDoug are always so helpful. We appreciate that.

moparman

I bought the whole hose assembly, sans radiator hoses, from GMPartsDirect this past summer. IIRC, the cost was around $125, including shipping. Then I broke my shoulder and had to pay to get them put on.

brentbrowning01

I received my 16 pin OBD cable in the mail today! Man, what an awesome, effortless program GaryDoug and his co-creators have supplied us with...... for FREE!!! Kudos to you guys for that! If you have been tirelessly searching the internet for an OBD Code scanner and/or looking for a way to scan your codes while not spending lots of money, I'm here to tell you, if you have a laptop computer and $10-$60. check into Mr. GaryDoug program..

Here are my codes. Feel free to nit pick and point out anything wrong other than the two SES codes. I already know about them..

Just as I suspected, an opti code.... Anyway to start this car and keep it crunk long enough to get to the garage about 8 miles away?

Screenshot4.png Photo by brentbrowning01yahoocom | Photobucket

Screenshot5.png Photo by brentbrowning01yahoocom | Photobucket

Screenshot6.png Photo by brentbrowning01yahoocom | Photobucket

Screenshot7.png Photo by brentbrowning01yahoocom | Photobucket

Screenshot8.png Photo by brentbrowning01yahoocom | Photobucket

Screenshot9.png Photo by brentbrowning01yahoocom | Photobucket

Injuneer

The engine should start and run with DTC 36. That is a problem with the high resolution signal, and the PCM does not need that to time the injectors or the spark. Just loses a bit of spark timing accuracy, but you wouldn't even notice the difference.

DTC 15 will make the engine hard to start, since the PCM thinks the coolant is a 40-degrees F below 0. Low temp reading is the result of high resistance. Possible the harness connector is off the coolant temp sensor (= infinite resistance) in the water pump housing.

To check coolant temp sensors:

4th Gen LT1 F-body Tech Articles

Location:

http://shbox.com/1/temp_sensor1.jpg

brentbrowning01

I guess I'm going to have to change the Coolant temp sensor. It's brand new but oh well. This car won't crank.

Injuneer

Don't replace parts without testing. Read Shoebox's guide, which tells you how to test the entire circuit, not just the temp sensor.

brentbrowning01

Great idea, Injuneer. In this case though, it was the sensor. I fixed that today and weirdly enough when I ran another scan, I now get a code 42. My code 36 disappeared as did my code 15 (when I replaced the sensor).

I didn't think I'd ever get the car started but it finally started. After it started I had no troubles cranking her again. Took her for a test drive and at 40 mph, there is a slight hesitation when I quickly accelerate. Could the hesitation have something to do with that ignition control circuit code 42?

GaryDoug, how do I operate the "Chart" section and the "Actuators" in the Scan9495 program.