New members Read: Top 5 LT1 mods in order
#16
here is how I went about things:
bone stock auto 94 formula w/ 2.73s. 106,000 miles.
2.164 60'
9.57 @ 74.4 1/8
14.8 @ 93.2 1/4.
+SLP CAI, !spare, !jack
2.218 60'
9.4 @ 76.73 1/8
14.46 @ 97.36 1/4
+3.73 gears
2.166 60'
9.1 @ 77.3 1/8
14.1 @ 98.760 1/4
+mac mids & y-pipe, carsound high flow cat, SLP loudmouth, taylor OTVC plug wire kit, NGK TR55s
2.1 60'
don't remember 1/8
13.8 @ 102 1/4
after that I added a madz28 tune and torque thrust IIs all around. even with the heavy torque thrust IIs and much hotter/more humid weather it still ran 14.0s @ 101-102.
heres how I would do it if I could do it all again:
0) TUNEUP. (opti, plugs, wires, tie rod ends, tranny mount that breaks all the damn time)
1) good CAI (I didn't like the SLP one)
2) hooker catback (sounds great and flows great)
3) pacesetter LTs and ORY-pipe (best bang for the buck headers. I would install them with the hooker catback)
4) 3.73 gears
5) 2800-3200 rpm stall & shift kit
6) madz28 tune
yeah, its more than 5. this is just what I would do for a fun every day driver LT1 car. throw in drag radials and go run low 13s or maybe even high 12s. I wouldn't do internal engine work save maybe 1.6:1 roller rockers. possibly scorpion 1.7s if the internal engine will remain stock. I wouldn't do my 383 again. it sure was fun but the level I took it to took its fun every day driver status away.
bone stock auto 94 formula w/ 2.73s. 106,000 miles.
2.164 60'
9.57 @ 74.4 1/8
14.8 @ 93.2 1/4.
+SLP CAI, !spare, !jack
2.218 60'
9.4 @ 76.73 1/8
14.46 @ 97.36 1/4
+3.73 gears
2.166 60'
9.1 @ 77.3 1/8
14.1 @ 98.760 1/4
+mac mids & y-pipe, carsound high flow cat, SLP loudmouth, taylor OTVC plug wire kit, NGK TR55s
2.1 60'
don't remember 1/8
13.8 @ 102 1/4
after that I added a madz28 tune and torque thrust IIs all around. even with the heavy torque thrust IIs and much hotter/more humid weather it still ran 14.0s @ 101-102.
heres how I would do it if I could do it all again:
0) TUNEUP. (opti, plugs, wires, tie rod ends, tranny mount that breaks all the damn time)
1) good CAI (I didn't like the SLP one)
2) hooker catback (sounds great and flows great)
3) pacesetter LTs and ORY-pipe (best bang for the buck headers. I would install them with the hooker catback)
4) 3.73 gears
5) 2800-3200 rpm stall & shift kit
6) madz28 tune
yeah, its more than 5. this is just what I would do for a fun every day driver LT1 car. throw in drag radials and go run low 13s or maybe even high 12s. I wouldn't do internal engine work save maybe 1.6:1 roller rockers. possibly scorpion 1.7s if the internal engine will remain stock. I wouldn't do my 383 again. it sure was fun but the level I took it to took its fun every day driver status away.
#18
Why would you want to put headers on and then restrict the gains with a stock exhaust? I would do the catback, first. I would also put the gears at #4. Gears don't make your car faster until the engine can make use of the RPMs. It will breath better once the headers are on.
#19
1. Free Mods(weight reductions etc)
2.CAI
3.exhaust (do the headers and catback/true duals at the same time)
4.sticky tires
5. Torque converter 2800-3000 w/ shift kit and tranny cooler
6. mail order tune
7. Gears (if you have 2.73's)
2.CAI
3.exhaust (do the headers and catback/true duals at the same time)
4.sticky tires
5. Torque converter 2800-3000 w/ shift kit and tranny cooler
6. mail order tune
7. Gears (if you have 2.73's)
#20
Best five mods period or best five mods with a budget???
The absolute best five mods to an LT1 would be nitrous, a supercharger, supporting engine parts, cutout, and slicks...
on a budget though...
CAI
Catback
Tires
poly bushings on sway bars (often overlooked)
Fix anything else that's broken.
The absolute best five mods to an LT1 would be nitrous, a supercharger, supporting engine parts, cutout, and slicks...
on a budget though...
CAI
Catback
Tires
poly bushings on sway bars (often overlooked)
Fix anything else that's broken.
#21
Definitely a simple, cheap, effective approach for sure! BTW, from your sig ...... "M6 on 17''s 1.5 60'............ " .....how the heck did you manage that!?!?!
#22
I suppose i should have seperated M6 from A4. Obviously a high stall converter would make the top 5 for an A4 car. As for Zigroid, going from 2:73 to 3:73 had to feel like a totally different car! I dont know why they put 2:73 in an auto. 3:23 should be the bottom in my opinion.
I would like to keep this list seperate of any forced induction. I know a 100 shot is the fastest, most cost effective way to add power but maybe we can start a seperate FI list.
I would like to keep this list seperate of any forced induction. I know a 100 shot is the fastest, most cost effective way to add power but maybe we can start a seperate FI list.
#23
I would disagree with the CAI for these cars as far as money well spent is concerned. I have a k&n drop in filter on mine and it literally did the same thing at the track as my buddies SLP CAI I borrowed.
94' Auto T/A- stock 2:73 geared, with 245 tires and the exhaust disconnected after the cat (and spare removed) = 13.8@101.8 on a 2.0 60'
same car with ZR1 wheels and street 275s, k&N drop in, and AS&M headers (no tune) = 13.3@104 with a 1.9 60'
same setup with a CAI = 13.3-13.4 all night with same MPH and 60's
I would say in no particular order:
1) headers
2) stall for auto
3) tune
4) sticky tires
5) catback
94' Auto T/A- stock 2:73 geared, with 245 tires and the exhaust disconnected after the cat (and spare removed) = 13.8@101.8 on a 2.0 60'
same car with ZR1 wheels and street 275s, k&N drop in, and AS&M headers (no tune) = 13.3@104 with a 1.9 60'
same setup with a CAI = 13.3-13.4 all night with same MPH and 60's
I would say in no particular order:
1) headers
2) stall for auto
3) tune
4) sticky tires
5) catback
#24
i run the 17'' et street slicks, i leave at 4k on a 150 shot......only suspension mod i have are relocation brackets and my car is slammed, full trim..stock rearend & tranny. ...... no spin or slippage at all.
Last edited by 10sec LT1; 11-10-2006 at 12:09 AM.
#26
Correct, he is saying that in spite of that he still managed that impressive 60' time. Take 388ci and no doubt a decent cam/heads combo, a 150-shot, slicks ....no wonder it launches so hard. If he races it much the stock drivetrain (esp rear end) won't last long of course, unless it's freak drivetrain.
#27
Correct, he is saying that in spite of that he still managed that impressive 60' time. Take 388ci and no doubt a decent cam/heads combo, a 150-shot, slicks ....no wonder it launches so hard. If he races it much the stock drivetrain (esp rear end) won't last long of course, unless it's freak drivetrain.
#28
I had a lightly modded 1995 Z28.
On that car I had the following:
CAI - SLP dual tube (its metal and will take very well to Icing at the track) $200
Y-pipe - Larger Y pipe by Borla $75 (used)
CATBack - Flowmaster Force II series. Not as popular as the others but well worth it. $250
Pulley - ASP 34% reduction pulley. $100 ? I cant remember exactly
Gears - Strange 3.73's $200 installed
Ok.. so it doesnt look like too much but with those mods on an auto I was pulling 275 rwhp / 290 rwtq.
13.4's @105 on street tires with 1.9 60" times..
$ for $ there wasnt much that would touch it.. so it was fun..
On that car I had the following:
CAI - SLP dual tube (its metal and will take very well to Icing at the track) $200
Y-pipe - Larger Y pipe by Borla $75 (used)
CATBack - Flowmaster Force II series. Not as popular as the others but well worth it. $250
Pulley - ASP 34% reduction pulley. $100 ? I cant remember exactly
Gears - Strange 3.73's $200 installed
Ok.. so it doesnt look like too much but with those mods on an auto I was pulling 275 rwhp / 290 rwtq.
13.4's @105 on street tires with 1.9 60" times..
$ for $ there wasnt much that would touch it.. so it was fun..
#30
This site has a few dyno results of mods http://www.ws6.com/mycar.htm