IAT problems
#1
IAT problems
Hey guys.... Been a while
Here is my issue when I have the IAT plugged in..
When you take off car bucks breaks (lean) wont accelerate
Unplugged car runs for the most part decent..
No codes replaced 4 times no breaks in wires that I saw..
I think all this started last winter and never got back to this site to ask why when plugged in it drives bad unplugged good
Thanks art
Here is my issue when I have the IAT plugged in..
When you take off car bucks breaks (lean) wont accelerate
Unplugged car runs for the most part decent..
No codes replaced 4 times no breaks in wires that I saw..
I think all this started last winter and never got back to this site to ask why when plugged in it drives bad unplugged good
Thanks art
#3
Re: IAT problems
At any point have you tested the sensors (4 replacements?)? Have you verified 5V to theharness connection (harness unplugged)?
4th Gen LT1 F-body Tech Articles
The IAT shares a ground with the MAP sensor and the A/C temp and pressure sensors. Possible there is a problem on one of those circuits that is screwing up the voltage on the IAT sensor, or vis-a-versa.
I would check the IAT sensor resistance, check the voltage at the harness connector with the harness off the sensor, then check the voltage with the harness on the sensor. Record the actual air temp at the same time you check the voltage with the harness on the sensor, and post them. I'll tell you if there is a voltage problem.
Alternatively, use Scan9495 to data log your ECM. It now works for 93's as well:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...95-lt1-874306/
Then we can review the MAP and IAT side-by-side.
#4
Re: IAT problems
Yeah I was using my phone didn't realize that possibility
No never tested for volts assumed it just crapped out the first time
My a/c stuff is all yanked out so gonna have to double check that
The ground that ties the map and IAT wouldn't by chance be down on the block would it... Not soon after header install this IAT issue started....
Thanks for replying and I also ran codes after hard wot run to see how bad this was affecting the car and ses light came on and then shut off when I let off gas..
Code 55 came up so I got other issues at hand as well unless this IAT/map is creating this??
Fuel filter was replaced with a wix yesterday with oil change. Somehow old filter got clobbered a smashed it...
Again thanks
No never tested for volts assumed it just crapped out the first time
My a/c stuff is all yanked out so gonna have to double check that
The ground that ties the map and IAT wouldn't by chance be down on the block would it... Not soon after header install this IAT issue started....
Thanks for replying and I also ran codes after hard wot run to see how bad this was affecting the car and ses light came on and then shut off when I let off gas..
Code 55 came up so I got other issues at hand as well unless this IAT/map is creating this??
Fuel filter was replaced with a wix yesterday with oil change. Somehow old filter got clobbered a smashed it...
Again thanks
#5
Re: IAT problems
The ground is actually a black wire that starts at pin B3 of the ECM, not on a chassis or engine ground.
DTC 55 is "fuel lean" and sets when you go heavy on the throttle, the ECM goes into power enrichment (PE) mode, and richens the A/F ratio to make power. If the O2 sensors don't show it's running rich, like it should, DTC 55 sets.
In a 93 with speed-density A/F ratio control, the inlet air temp and the manifold absolute pressure are critical to determine the mass air flow, so that the ECM can add the required fuel. The IAT problem and DTC 55 could be (and likely are) directly related.
DTC 55 is "fuel lean" and sets when you go heavy on the throttle, the ECM goes into power enrichment (PE) mode, and richens the A/F ratio to make power. If the O2 sensors don't show it's running rich, like it should, DTC 55 sets.
In a 93 with speed-density A/F ratio control, the inlet air temp and the manifold absolute pressure are critical to determine the mass air flow, so that the ECM can add the required fuel. The IAT problem and DTC 55 could be (and likely are) directly related.
#6
Re: IAT problems
Wow thanks been driving me crazy in what I did or didn't do..
I know my car has had several pig tail issues like my vss everything checked until I plugged it in and it shorted put
So I will check all what you said
I know my car has had several pig tail issues like my vss everything checked until I plugged it in and it shorted put
So I will check all what you said
#11
Re: IAT problems
Next check the MAP sensor at idle. 5V reference between the black and gray wires, sensor off or connected - doesn't matter. Check with the IAT sensor connected and unconnected. Next the signal wire, measure light green to black, connector on the sensor. Should be about 1.5V. Again, measure with IAT plugged and unplugged.
#12
#13
Re: IAT problems
Signal wire green with key on is -.002 with IAT plugged and unplugged
Gray to blk test was 5.0v plugged and unplugged with IAT
Unplugg map car shuts off and that should be what happens
Gray to blk test was 5.0v plugged and unplugged with IAT
Unplugg map car shuts off and that should be what happens
#14
Re: IAT problems
Ok engine running the signal wire was reading 1.3-1.7
Everything plugged in right now the car is all over the place
"Hunting". Unplug IAT she idles out unplug she revs for 3 seconds and idles at 750
Plug in she almost died but caught idle tach drops real quick to 500 and back to 700 hasn't balanced out ... This is all cold start warming up. As I'm typing she clears up a little
I think everything is working and this is a fuel pump issue??
Everything plugged in right now the car is all over the place
"Hunting". Unplug IAT she idles out unplug she revs for 3 seconds and idles at 750
Plug in she almost died but caught idle tach drops real quick to 500 and back to 700 hasn't balanced out ... This is all cold start warming up. As I'm typing she clears up a little
I think everything is working and this is a fuel pump issue??
#15
Re: IAT problems
For some reason, my response to your post of 3:23pm did not show up - I think we both posted at the same instant.
When did you get the -.002V reading on the MAP sensor? Did you measure green wire to gray wire with engine off? Only way you could get that result. With engine off, MAP voltage should be 4.8-4.9V at sea level, since with the engine off, it's reading barometric pressure.
My last comment, which didn't show up is I think your IAT voltage may be wrong if it's really at 60degF. Factory manual shows same as the date logs I've received, 1.2 - 2.0 Volts. 4.0V is too high. But let Gary look at that.
When did you get the -.002V reading on the MAP sensor? Did you measure green wire to gray wire with engine off? Only way you could get that result. With engine off, MAP voltage should be 4.8-4.9V at sea level, since with the engine off, it's reading barometric pressure.
My last comment, which didn't show up is I think your IAT voltage may be wrong if it's really at 60degF. Factory manual shows same as the date logs I've received, 1.2 - 2.0 Volts. 4.0V is too high. But let Gary look at that.