grabbem88

Took it for a beat down. On take she broke up backfired and cleared up

Took it down some back roads and around 85 in 3rd ses light came on drove around some more and everything from taking off to shifting seemed good but as soon as I punch there is small break up between 70-80 in 3rd and them all hell breaks loose and ses light comes on for a second and shuts off..

Only code is 55

This is with IAT plugged in

grabbem88

Yeah I thought I could unplug it while car running but nope lol

So I tapped into wires green and black and started car and I got 4.9 something

While car running and IAT plugged in I recieved the same 4.9-

grabbem88

Btw prior owner already has a trap door for fuel pump and if I'm not mistaken its an autozone special or eBay knock off

grabbem88

Did a double chk. Car running IAT 4.95
Map gray to blk 4.95. Green to black 1.0567 and varied from 1.03 to 1.05 on a range

GaryDoug

I was measuring the voltage on my 94 pcm setup. At 4.0 volts it reads 63 F with the Tech 2 and my app. Was this old log done with Freescan by any chance? I have found that some of those voltages are in error. As a matter of fact, the factory pcm doesn't even provide that voltage as far as I know.

Where in the 94 manual does it have that information?

Injuneer

93 manual, engine controls, the table that shows the pinouts for each connector, with "normal" readings like voltage.

GaryDoug

I guess it might be different voltage for a 93, but the PCM would have to have a different pullup resistor because the sensor is the same for 93 and 94. And the charts are the same. On the 94, 2.0 volts means 140F and 3.0 volts means 100F. I don't see any real reason it would be very different when the engine is running though.

grabbem88

Any good recomendations on fuel pumps

Thought about a walbro 255lph

Injuneer

Read post #3 in this thread:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...-pumps-881609/

Problem with the Walbro pumps is too many Chinese counterfeit "Walbro" umps being sold. They also seem to have frequent problems with the check valve.

grabbem88

I'm aware

grabbem88

I was planning on racetronnix anyways. All my mustangs were except one that had Holley (walbro). And never had a failure.

I'm sure as heck not buying summit brands or some $35 walbro knockoff lol

grabbem88

This IAT thing is driving me crazy btw

If everything checks out then what I suspect the ECM?

I went to work last night and left everything plugged as it should and I didn't make 500 feet before I had enough and pulled over and unplugged the stupid thing..

And my car threw no codes when I took vacuum line off fpr but came on when plugged in at wot.... Any insight on that?? Borrowing gauge tonight since my attachments disappeared to confirm my psi

Injuneer

I've got a pair of Bosch 205 LPH pumps. The one in the tank took some modification to fit the stock sending unit, but it was done by the shop that built my engine, so I don't know the details. I also have an outboard pump off a sump at the back/bottom of the tank, and that is another 205 LPH Bosch pump that was included in an NOS dry nitrous kit I bought in 1995. Going on 20 years. But it only runs when the nitrous system is activated.

The Bosch pump was the shop's first choice for high pressure pumps. It was standard equipment from the factory on Porsche Turbo's. Not cheap. Somewhere I have the model number for it.

grabbem88

Ok one more thing.

This thing has A LOT of miles on it at 5-5500 rpm who says I'm not floating the valves?

Could this give me lean conditions?

If I shift below or at 5k I get no codes nor a static tach or engine breaking up..

On the fpr is it better off getting an aftermarket or stock

And which to get and stay away from?

grabbem88

I'm interested in this scan9495

Anybody want to make me a cable ill buy ASAP

I gotta get this car straightened out so whoever has an extra cable that I can buy let me know!
Thanks art... cash check PayPal I'm good