I have Solved the Power Window Issue :)
#121
It was just easier to go to AUTOTRIX's website and buy it, trust me. I ordered it and it was at my door later that week.
Jeff
#122
For both doors, you need four 30AMP relays and relay sockets, a fuse / fuse holder, ring terminal for connecting to the battery, 15-20 feet of 8, 10, or 12 AWG wiring (your choice - I went with 10AWG) for power supply, plus a few feet each of some different colors of 14AWG for the switch connections (different colors to troubleshoot someday should it become necessary!), and in my case a soldering iron and some shrink tubing.
If you do it yourself - make a color coded schematic and file it away just in case the car is ever worked on at a shop - they can put it back together correctly (speaking from experience here).
#124
No DS? You mean driverside? I see they have both express for driverside and passenger side....and non express for passenger side....if I am correct I think the driverside from the factory is express down.
I would buy them both express, but that's me.
http://www.autotrix.net/products.html
I would buy them both express, but that's me.
http://www.autotrix.net/products.html
#125
For both doors, you need four 30AMP relays and relay sockets, a fuse / fuse holder, ring terminal for connecting to the battery, 15-20 feet of 8, 10, or 12 AWG wiring (your choice - I went with 10AWG) for power supply, plus a few feet each of some different colors of 14AWG for the switch connections (different colors to troubleshoot someday should it become necessary!), and in my case a soldering iron and some shrink tubing.
If you do it yourself - make a color coded schematic and file it away just in case the car is ever worked on at a shop - they can put it back together correctly (speaking from experience here).
If you do it yourself - make a color coded schematic and file it away just in case the car is ever worked on at a shop - they can put it back together correctly (speaking from experience here).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post