I have Solved the Power Window Issue :)
07-08-2004, 08:14 AM
#31
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Middle Tennessee
Posts: 1,831
Originally posted by Blue96z28
Read this and tell me what you think.
My pass. side window rolls down but not up via the pass. side switch, but goes up and down flawless via the drivers....must be the switch right? Just reaplaced it with a brand new one and it does the same thing. Cant be the motor if it works flawlessly via the drivers switch, so it must be wiring? It has done this since i bought it and i've taken he door panel off 2 or 3 times so i couldnt really be a pinched wire or anything.....what are my options?
repost
Read this and tell me what you think.
My pass. side window rolls down but not up via the pass. side switch, but goes up and down flawless via the drivers....must be the switch right? Just reaplaced it with a brand new one and it does the same thing. Cant be the motor if it works flawlessly via the drivers switch, so it must be wiring? It has done this since i bought it and i've taken he door panel off 2 or 3 times so i couldnt really be a pinched wire or anything.....what are my options?
repost
On another note, has anyone taken pics of the wiring and stuff noted above yet? I'd like to see some pics so I can get an idea of what I need to do to my car. I'd like to try this, but I'm afraid to without seeing pics first.
And has anyone besides the original poster tried this setup and seen positive results? My windows roll up and down just fine right now, just slower than I'd like to so I thought I might try this before I ran into problems if others have tried it with success.
07-08-2004, 12:37 PM
#34
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 403
On the schematic what's "FROM B+" supposed to indicate?
Is that a spot in the fuse box or where?
Also, how is this interacting with the original system? Is it totally in place of the factory setup or spliced off of it? Also what about the auto down functionality and wiring.
I guess I'm still not really clear exactly what you did and how it's different than the stock setup.
Get pictures and better diagrams I'm very intrigued.
Is that a spot in the fuse box or where?
Also, how is this interacting with the original system? Is it totally in place of the factory setup or spliced off of it? Also what about the auto down functionality and wiring.
I guess I'm still not really clear exactly what you did and how it's different than the stock setup.
Get pictures and better diagrams I'm very intrigued.
07-08-2004, 03:39 PM
#36
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Tacoma, WA, USA
Posts: 2,442
Originally posted by JOE96Z28SS
Young Jedi Protoge' You have much to learn I think the biggest problem with Electric waterpumps is NOT the pump but the guy wiring it I used a 30A Relay and ran it straight to the battery (I figure the relay will act as the fuse) and I have had it for a while now and No problems. Undercurrent is the WORST enemy of motors and I think as parts wear the load on the motors increase and the stock wiring just can't cut it anymore. And most of us are changing window motors anyway so I may create a "Plug In" system and sell it.
Young Jedi Protoge' You have much to learn I think the biggest problem with Electric waterpumps is NOT the pump but the guy wiring it I used a 30A Relay and ran it straight to the battery (I figure the relay will act as the fuse) and I have had it for a while now and No problems. Undercurrent is the WORST enemy of motors and I think as parts wear the load on the motors increase and the stock wiring just can't cut it anymore. And most of us are changing window motors anyway so I may create a "Plug In" system and sell it.
07-08-2004, 05:17 PM
#37
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 409
Originally posted by RMC
On the schematic what's "FROM B+" supposed to indicate?
Is that a spot in the fuse box or where?
Also, how is this interacting with the original system? Is it totally in place of the factory setup or spliced off of it? Also what about the auto down functionality and wiring.
I guess I'm still not really clear exactly what you did and how it's different than the stock setup.
Get pictures and better diagrams I'm very intrigued.
On the schematic what's "FROM B+" supposed to indicate?
Is that a spot in the fuse box or where?
Also, how is this interacting with the original system? Is it totally in place of the factory setup or spliced off of it? Also what about the auto down functionality and wiring.
I guess I'm still not really clear exactly what you did and how it's different than the stock setup.
Get pictures and better diagrams I'm very intrigued.
07-08-2004, 06:50 PM
#39
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 709
Originally posted by Blue96z28
Read this and tell me what you think.
My pass. side window rolls down but not up via the pass. side switch, but goes up and down flawless via the drivers....must be the switch right? Just reaplaced it with a brand new one and it does the same thing. Cant be the motor if it works flawlessly via the drivers switch, so it must be wiring? It has done this since i bought it and i've taken he door panel off 2 or 3 times so i couldnt really be a pinched wire or anything.....what are my options?
repost
Read this and tell me what you think.
My pass. side window rolls down but not up via the pass. side switch, but goes up and down flawless via the drivers....must be the switch right? Just reaplaced it with a brand new one and it does the same thing. Cant be the motor if it works flawlessly via the drivers switch, so it must be wiring? It has done this since i bought it and i've taken he door panel off 2 or 3 times so i couldnt really be a pinched wire or anything.....what are my options?
repost
Originally posted by LWillmann
Mine did that and the passenger side switch was the problem. If you replaced that, then the next thing to replace would be the driver's switch.
Mine did that and the passenger side switch was the problem. If you replaced that, then the next thing to replace would be the driver's switch.
07-09-2004, 12:13 AM
#42
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Sacramento, CA 95820 USA
Posts: 175
"Man, if you were to make these modules and sell them, I kid you not I would buy 12 of them. After this weekend perhaps 14. You need to make this a plug in application, and start selling it!"
Me too! Make them Plug n Play and you would make hundreds of owners very happy. Sign me up for both doors.
Me too! Make them Plug n Play and you would make hundreds of owners very happy. Sign me up for both doors.
07-09-2004, 08:25 AM
#45
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Oshawa - Home of the 5th-gen
Posts: 5,308
OK, I just want to get this straight
.....
.....you ran the original wires that come from the switch (up/down) to relays now, instead of directly to the motors?
And the power/ground wires to the motors are now heavy gauge wire, instead of lighter gauge as they were originally?
If that's the case, it makes perfect sense to me, and doesn't sound all that difficult to do
. Oh yeah, did you put all these relays in the door panels near the switches? I think that's what you said?
Well, since I've already had the driver's side motor replaced, and the passenger's is starting to seem a little slower than it used to, I may have to make this a little day-project. Nice work!
..........you ran the original wires that come from the switch (up/down) to relays now, instead of directly to the motors?
And the power/ground wires to the motors are now heavy gauge wire, instead of lighter gauge as they were originally?If that's the case, it makes perfect sense to me, and doesn't sound all that difficult to do
. Oh yeah, did you put all these relays in the door panels near the switches? I think that's what you said?Well, since I've already had the driver's side motor replaced, and the passenger's is starting to seem a little slower than it used to, I may have to make this a little day-project
. Nice work!